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Re: [demo] training with a weighted vest?:
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aerili
Aug 4, 2007, 9:56 PM
Views: 16815
Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166
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bcombs and others agreeing with him are wrong. bcombs, you need to cite your scientific journals, otherwise you are just saying what "appears" to make logical sense to you without really understanding what you are talking about. You do not understand what SPECIFICITY OF TRAINING is.
I am actually not trying to pick on anybody (sorry!), but the problem is most people who post about these things really don't know much about biomechanics or neuromuscular firing patterns, so they think, "More weight = harder workout = I will become as stronger, better climber." BUT!
The exercise science literature now evidences that adding resistance to sport specific movements actually DECREASES performance. It has to do NOT with the strength of the muscles, but the way the body fires groups of muscles to perform the movement in the first place.
For instance, we used to train overhead athletes (i.e. anybody who throws or swings overhead, like baseball players, football players, volleyball players, tennis players, and so on) by attaching resistance bands to their throwing arm and pulling against them while they went through their throwing/swinging motion-- usually in increments of slow to normal speed. The thinking went that if you made the throwing motion harder, their muscles would get stronger and they would perform a throw/swing that much more effortlessly and powerfully when unweighted in actual performance.
The science isn't bearing this thinking out, though. The problem is that overhead athletes DON'T throw or swing in a weighted fashion (just as you don't actually climb with weighted vests and belts attached to you when you're working a route or trying to send). And by fucking around with the conditions under which the muscles fire, they found doing these things actually changed the firing pattern of the muscles responsible for the motion. When training the muscles to fire incorrectly over and over, you eventually get an ingrained muscle memory, and when you go to perform the real thing, your performance declines because the muscles fire improperly and your biomechanics become a mess. Dig me? BTW, I use overhead athletes as just an example, but it's been proven in various types of sport specific movements, so climbers can easily be correlated into this group.
"Attempting to duplicate a sport specific movement with unaccustomed movements and loads results in the athlete learning two methods or styles of performance, thus causing a negative transfer. Multiple motor memories adapt, which inevitably leads to confusion. Competitive performance will either suffer or not benefit in any manner as a result." This quote is from this link: http://www.planetfieldhockey.com/PFH/Item-View-2172-41.
Although this isn't a specific study, it was one of the best websites I found to accurately and effectively summarize the actual scientific data as a whole on this topic. Just so the OP and others understand what I'm saying: just because it is about hockey does NOT mean it doesn't apply to climbing; the principles the author is discussing are relevant to ALL sport specific activities.
(This post was edited by aerili on Aug 4, 2007, 10:25 PM)
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Post edited by aerili
() on Aug 4, 2007, 10:25 PM
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