Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [PepsiTwist] training with a weighted vest?: Edit Log




aerili


Aug 6, 2007, 5:45 AM

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Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [PepsiTwist] training with a weighted vest?
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PepsiTwist wrote:
You get on bcombs and everybody elses case for not citing scientific journals, but that website/article you linked wasnt a peer reviewed academic/scientific article from an academic/scientific journal. Therefore the science being quoted in the article is as unfounded as bcombs and everybody else saying what they think makes logical sense.

If nothing else, you did go further by providing sources, but those sources wouldnt be acceptable in the academic/scientific world. Anyways, continue on with the debate.

Hey PepsiTwist, if you read my post again, you will notice that I acknowledge this fact. But I can tell you that I used it because it accurately sums up the current scientific evidence AS A WHOLE, so actually what it states ISN'T unfounded. Most of the people posting on here are just saying, "Yeah, this seems to make sense to me so I would say 'yes.'" So their thinking is based on nothing except basically uneducated hunches. But unfortunately it's not the reality.

Despite the fact that link doesn't have individual studies listed, what it says is the current scientific thought on this topic. I know this because I've worked in the strength and conditioning industry for many years; I attend continuing education seminars and this has been espoused by the premier strength coaches and educators in this country for the last 6+ years: people like Mike Boyle, Gray Cook, Juan Carlos Santana, Robb Rogers, etc. These guys base their training on science, not hunches, since they are all employed in the training of athletes, including pro teams. I assure you it's based on plenty of science.

In regard to lemonboy's comment: as for carrying trad racks, etc., hey, I'm a trad climber, but I still wouldn't climb with weighted vests or belts or whatever. In other words, carrying a weighted belt or vest will not mimic carrying a trad rack. This is a negative transfer of skill. A track rack doesn't even come close to weighing the 20+ lbs these guys are carrying in additional weight typically either, but regardless of the amount of weight on a rack, weighted devices worn while climbing will only make you better at climbing with weighted devices. Like I said earlier, it's a matter of understanding neuromuscular firing patterns in muscles. Strength and power gains in sport specific movements are more complicated physiologically than the average climber grasps, I guess.

BTW, girls can carry their rack on a sling just as easily as a guy. Smile


(This post was edited by aerili on Aug 6, 2007, 5:47 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by aerili () on Aug 6, 2007, 5:47 AM


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