|
|
Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [tomcat] Dear Gunks climbers:
Edit Log
|
|
desertwanderer81
Oct 9, 2007, 1:45 PM
Views: 5380
Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272
|
tomcat wrote: I don't consider the lack of a rack an excuse to toprope at a trad area.
In reply to: There are plenty of climbs at every grade up to at least 5.11(extent of my personal knowledge) that you can lead and fall off safely.
In reply to: That was true back in the days of EB's,swami's and spring free climbing,so more so now.And plenty of leads that don't require a 1000 dollar lead rack.
As for the "Cheap Rack" senario. Sure you can do a few climbs there with just nuts and tri-cams, but I personally don't feel that there are enough at a low grade (assuming that is what the beginer who doesn't have a full rack with cams would be climbing at) to justify buying even that!
In reply to: I am full of myself but hardly see what that has to do with this discussion.... 
SGPS (Small Gunks Penis Syndrom) is also the main reason that grades at the Gunks are so incredibly sandbagged! The excuse of course is that "This is tradition and the way we do things here!" Of course however, this really isn't inline with the rest of the US. I can't count the number of times when I've seen a group of new climbers to the area, eyeballing a climb saying, "Oh, it's only a 5.8, we should be able to do this easily for a warm-up"
I quickly tell them that maybe a 5.6 would be a better warm-up just till they get used to the gear placements here :p
(This post was edited by desertwanderer81 on Oct 9, 2007, 2:07 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
