|
|
Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [brutusofwyde] Place to buy giant valley cams.:
Edit Log
|
|
apollodorus
Nov 6, 2007, 7:24 AM
Views: 7930
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Is THIS what you mean, when you say giant cams?
9", 12" and 16" Valley Giant cams.
The #9 is the one you want. The #12 is rarely needed. The #16 is so expensive, you don't want to ask how much it costs.
The entire 9th pitch of Excalibur required #9 size gear. I took five when I did that wall. A minimum of two, for crack-jugging, would be required. You can't really push a single piece up that pitch, unless you're doing hard 5.12 OW moves. Check the photo at my website:
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper
For size comparison, here are, left to right, a #4 Camalot and a Valley Giant #16.
The sizing number of the Valley Giant cams is based on the original Jardine formula: the number is the span, inches, when tipped out.
The solid trigger wires, instead of flexible cable wires, seem to be a point of conversation.
I have tried the cams both ways, and for pushing a cam up the crack, the solid wires work better, because they keep the head of the cam steady. Flexible, cable trigger wires, like the WC6, allow the cams/head to rotate, clack, and fall out if you try to push it up a crack. The solid trigger wires stabilize the head of the Valley Giant, so you can easily, and reliably, push it up a crack. The trigger of the Valley Giant is designed to let the trigger wire slide down, out the bottom of the trigger, for flared placements.
(This post was edited by apollodorus on Nov 6, 2007, 8:46 AM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by apollodorus
() on Nov 6, 2007, 7:29 AM
|
|
Post edited by apollodorus
() on Nov 6, 2007, 7:47 AM
|
|
Post edited by apollodorus
() on Nov 6, 2007, 7:54 AM
|
|
Post edited by apollodorus
() on Nov 6, 2007, 7:56 AM
|
|
Post edited by apollodorus
() on Nov 6, 2007, 8:43 AM
|
|
Post edited by apollodorus
() on Nov 6, 2007, 8:46 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
