Re: [andrewbanandrew] tying into a belay anchor on a multipitch route
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A clove will work well for tying yourself in. Some people backup with an eight or some sort of PAS/slings to add redundancy.
I will try to describe in some detail what I like to see generally or what I am ok with personally. There are many ways to do things and one method doesn't necessarily fit all situations so one needs to be flexible.
My advice is to keep it simple if you can. There is nothing like coming up to a belay station as a second and thinking to yourself, "What they hell is that mess and where am I supposed to clip into?"
Ok, the rope tied to your harness runs to a locker at your masterpoint or shelf to which you have it clove-hitched or tied with an eight.
Now if you want to back it up here are a couple ways you can do it. The rope can either be attached back to your harness with a locker as backup or tied again to another locker on your anchor system using a backup knot whether it be an eight or another clove. A PAS/sling with locker could be used also.
The rope then runs through your belay device to your second. A direct belay from your anchors is usually preferred as opposed to being off your harness for a bomber belay anchor setup as you described.
Just out of curiosity what belay device do you typically use or are planning to use to bring up your second?
(This post was edited by Jbitz on Dec 17, 2007, 1:59 AM)
