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Re: [MtnLdr] Running back to catch a fall?:
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drfelatio
Jan 31, 2008, 5:14 PM
Views: 5948
Registered: Sep 16, 2004
Posts: 475
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MtnLdr wrote: Lets say that the bottom-most pro is a non-issue. If you run backwards from the belay platform (ground), wouldn't it be the same as the leader taking a big fall simultaneously with the belayer taking a small fall, thus increasing the fall forces on the uppermost piece of pro, thereby increasing the chances of that piece failing, and the leader decking out (possibly, or at least taking a bigger fall than is necessary.)
Yes, running back will put more force on the uppermost piece than if you were to give a dynamic belay and there's a possibility that that piece would fail. Maybe it'll slow the leader down enough to lessen the impact some.
In reply to: If the leader takes a big fall, and enough rope has been run out, it would make more sense to stay in place, and use a dynamic belay (let some rope out while catching the fall, thus decreasing the fall forces on both the uppermost pro, as well as the leader.) My .02 cents
Remember, we're talking about situations where a fall will put you on the deck. So your suggestion doesn't make sense. Lot of good your dynamic belay is going to be when your leader drops to the deck. I'd rather run back and risk potentially blowing that top piece than do nothing and just let the groundfall happen.
(This post was edited by drfelatio on Jan 31, 2008, 5:15 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by drfelatio
() on Jan 31, 2008, 5:15 PM
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