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"Walk of life" E12 7a - 5.14d(+?) RX.:
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sungam
Oct 2, 2008, 12:00 AM
Views: 12091
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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James Pearson has climbed his Devenshire coast project, naming it "walk of life" and giving it the intimidating grade of E12 7a (somewhere around 5.14d RX).
Here's what the cameraman filming him had to say:
"the climber is on the route for 45 minutes[snip]. That period of time allows the doubts to kick in. "What am I doing here? This is crazy". That period of time also has a big impact on the cumulative difficulty of the moves, compared to just doing them in isolation. So it is not just a head game. It is scary, yes, but hard and also incredibly sustained."
"The face is concave. The bottom is a steep slab, then it gradually tilts back to vertical. Beyond the first section there is one good piece of gear. Thereafter the gear is very poor, very difficult to place, and very difficult to tell if it is placed well. Most of the pieces are no 1 or 2 sliders and the seams into which these are placed are either chossy or parallel sided and frictionless."
"James fell during his first redpoint attempt, a monster fall. I was filming on ab and through the view finder I did not expect him to stop. I was certain he would just keep plummeting. But the gear at that point did hold. I stripped the route for him that day, and the micro cam that held the fall was in a shocking placement, and it was mangled and bent.
That day was a quite terrifying experience. We have filmed many routes with James, and he has never fallen before."
holy crazy lead, batman!
Read the full story from the camera man HERE
Jame's words should follow soon on his blog.
(This post was edited by sungam on Oct 3, 2008, 1:09 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by sungam
() on Oct 3, 2008, 1:08 AM
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Post edited by sungam
() on Oct 3, 2008, 1:09 AM
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