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Re: [jmeizis] The Murder of the Impossible:
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Gmburns2000
Oct 9, 2008, 2:52 PM
Views: 3203
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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jmeizis wrote: So I have to ask, if you wouldn't chip a climb to bring it down to your physical level then why would you bolt it to bring it down to your mental level? Now one could say that you could simply skip the bolts which is true, just as you could skip chipped holds. Nevertheless you still have an escape because someone brought the level of the climb down mentally or physically. If you don't feel ready for a climb physically or mentally you don't have to do it. So to reiterate the question why would you bring a climb down to your level mentally or physically?
OK, I know I'm going to hear about this in one fashion or another, but just to play a very, very, small and weak devil's advocate - it is likely easier to skip the bolt than it is the chipped hold. In other words, skipping the bolt won't change the grade, but skipping the hold probably would, particularly if the hold was chipped because there are no other reasonable holds around it to use (therefore requiring the hold be chipped, so that something can, in fact be used).
I'm not advocating either, but since routes are primarily graded on a physical basis, we can't really have the discussion about the mental challenge of the climb if the climb is over bolted. Because of this, if it is over bolted, then the discussion is almost always surrounded by the environmental or asthetic arguments. One can skip the bolt and make the climb more mentally challenging without changing the grade. One can probably not skip the hold to make it more mentally challenging without changing the grade. Think soloing a crack. The soloist is certainly changing the mental aspect despite the amount of gear available, but I doubt he's skipping holds to make it more mentally challenging.
edited to add the very last clause.
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Oct 9, 2008, 2:53 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by Gmburns2000
() on Oct 9, 2008, 2:53 PM
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