Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [aerili] Questions on RockProdigy's Hangboard Training Approach: Edit Log




jto


Oct 28, 2008, 8:25 AM

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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272

Re: [aerili] Questions on RockProdigy's Hangboard Training Approach
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In Finland we use terms basic, maximal, speed and explosive strength to illustrate the muscle work. In hangboarding one uses the two first... as aerili stated.

When I talk about hangboard workouts they would go like this:
- Basic strength (or hypertrophy): 6-15 reps, 5-10 secs per rep, 5-10 sec pauses between the reps
- Maximal strength: 1-5 reps, 1-5 secs per rep, 5-10 sec pauses between the reps
- The set amount depends of the grips used, the other training done, how much, how often etc...

Ok, it might be fucking the commas like we say here but then again itīs good to have the concepts right.

It is possible to train "power" on hangboards by doing jumps to holds and that way train the speed of recruitment which really is power training. Thereīs no movement but the amount of speed needed to recruit as many cells and as quickly/same time as possible is a way to train static "power".

But itīs not so easy and itīs way better to do it in a bouldering wall by doing hard very dynamic one move throws and catches.

Still I like the Finnish describing better and more clear Smile

BUT... the most important thing behind the words is that one trains consistently and with a plan, general or strict. It is possible to vary the amount of reps, sets, grips, the length of reps, pauses etc to create different but still progressive hangboard workouts and phases.

Cheers


(This post was edited by jto on Oct 28, 2008, 8:34 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jto () on Oct 28, 2008, 8:34 AM


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