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Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [jollymon] Anchors - Analysis (part II): Edit Log




billl7


Nov 18, 2008, 1:45 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [jollymon] Anchors - Analysis (part II)
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jollymon wrote:
2. poor cam placement. interior side has way different extension from the outside. Easy walker.
Why does that make it more likely to walk than a placement with equal deployment? When it comes to cams walking, I am concerned more about rope-action, direction of pull, and cracks that widen around the point of placement. Not whether I have even cam deployment. Edit: besides, that cam's deployment looks pretty dam good to me.

jollymon wrote:
4. equalize all protection, not two pieces and one piece.
There are systems to equalize odd numbers of protection although doing it redundantly and dynamically is usually not done cleanly (even with the equalette).

Anyway, why always equalize between three instead of two and then one? I understand the load is not truely equalized across all pieces. But the primary in general anchor building is to place bomber individual pieces. Why always go to extremes every time if one usually has bomber individual placements and limited anchor extension upon failure.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Nov 18, 2008, 1:52 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Nov 18, 2008, 1:46 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Nov 18, 2008, 1:52 PM


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