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Climbing Disciplines:
Alpine & Ice:
Re: [dr_feelgood] Link Cams and Ice:
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graniteboy
Nov 19, 2008, 11:38 PM
Views: 4781
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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I use cams of all sorts on winter climbs...just keep em lubed, keep em clean, and watch where you place em.
But as for what it is that I'm most concerned about in cam placements, the actual unit itself freezing is less of a concern than the basic mechanical/frictional limitations of cam units in general, especially on winter climbs.
To wit, foo; Cams in general need to be used cautiously in the winter environment. The friction coefficient of a wet crack or dirty alpine crack is less than a dry clean one, which can and does lead to cam placement failure. And any ice in the crack....you can pretty much forget about that placement holding any kind of fall.
So the previous poster who suggests pins and passive placements gives good advice.
You can still use cams, but many placements will be better to use passive pro or pins. Use yer Noggin, and Get yer hammer out, cause mixed season is here.
PS: real men can pound a 3/4" angle or a Lost arrow in solidly with their forehead.
(This post was edited by graniteboy on Nov 19, 2008, 11:40 PM)
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Post edited by graniteboy
() on Nov 19, 2008, 11:40 PM
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