Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [sidepull] Questions on RockProdigy's Hangboard Training Approach: Edit Log




jto


Dec 19, 2008, 9:28 AM

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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272

Re: [sidepull] Questions on RockProdigy's Hangboard Training Approach
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First of all the power and speed does not transfer well or at all from weightlifting to letīs say running. Very important point from Baye even if it is quite common knowledge in the neural sciences. Other stuff be it right or wrong from Crossfit I wonīt comment here.

To use strength to get endurance in the same discipline in the other hand is easily explained. Letsīsay Mrs. A benches 1x200 lbs and does letīs say 12 reps with 140 lbs = 70% of her one rep max.

Then there is Mr. B who benches 160 lbs and the same 140 lbs is 87,5% of his one rep max. Usually that percentage is lifted around 4-7 times. So basically the stronger you are the more easier it gets.

When doing hangboarding I would use mainly the rep system and not only single hangs. I had a long discussions with Rockprodigy about hangboard workouts in another thread (maybe lost in the old forum archives) where I encouraged him to use much more variety in his hang and rest times.

This means not to hang always "7 secs and rest 3" or "5 and 5" or whatever fixed system. You can use very much different set and rep systems to create different training effects and progress much more widely and usually better too. It is also not necessary to hang every hang to absolute failure.

Here are some very simple stuff of the same theme drawn out with just few sets to give an example. The weights etc are just for the sake of illustration:

1. 10x4 secs @ 40 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs
2. 10x7 secs @ 30 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs
3. 10x10 secs @ 20 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs

1. 10x10 secs @ 20 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs
2. 10x10 secs @ 30 lbs/ 10 sec pauses between hangs
3. 10x10 secs @ 40 lbs/ 15 sec pauses between hangs

1. 10x5 secs @ 20 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs
2. 8x5 secs @ 30 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs
3. 6x5 secs @ 40 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs

1. 10x10 secs @ 30 lbs/ 5 sec pauses between hangs
2. 10x7 secs @ 40 lbs/ 8 sec pauses between hangs
3. 10x3 secs @ 50 lbs/ 12 sec pauses between hangs

These all use variations of pyramiding, an old weightlifting progression system. Even if itīs not used so much any more in weightlifting world it suits hangboarding quite well. Other systems can be used of course but my point was just to give some variation tools.

So if you get your hangboard strenght up in a certain hold from letīs say
3 sets of 10x5 secs @ 40 lbs/ 5 sec pauses to
5 sets of 10x5 secs @ 70 lbs/ 5 secs pauses
you have a good base to build strength endurance too. With that 40 lbs you could do letīs say 4 sets of 20x10 secs/ 5 sec pauses. Thatīs over five times more time spend on that hold...

Cheers.


(This post was edited by jto on Dec 19, 2008, 9:35 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jto () on Dec 19, 2008, 9:35 AM


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