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Re: [naitch] Route closures at Franklin:
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notapplicable
Mar 13, 2009, 9:24 PM
Views: 7555
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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naitch wrote: 1) I don’t agree with partially altering a route. If a route is going to be altered/chopped, do it in a way that it’s clear from the bottom of the climb. I agree with Bryan that if a person gets on a route, they should be ready for whatever, including missing top anchors. HOWEVER, it only leads to more contention and disharmony within the climbing community to do it in a way that not obvious. If an accident happens it threatens the access of the whole community. If it's going to be done, then make it clear from the get go. In my way of viewing things it is ethically wrong/”dishonest” to remove top anchors with no indication that they are missing.
I'm with you 100% on this. I think that if temporary closures are going to be made, all the hangers should be pulled but the studs left in place. If a route is going to be chopped, it should be chopped all the way up.
It just bothers me to see people running around with their hair on fire and crying that people are gonna die just because anchors are missing. It doesn't even make sense. At a place like Franklin where most of the routes end right at the top of the cliff, all removing the anchor does is prevent people from top roping the route. Anyone can still lead it, anchor to a tree with the rope and belay from above. What he's done is shut down the top rope gang banging.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Mar 14, 2009, 2:36 AM)
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Post edited by notapplicable
() on Mar 14, 2009, 2:36 AM
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