Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [billcoe_] what is the best brand of hex : Edit Log




petsfed


Mar 22, 2009, 5:14 PM

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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Re: [billcoe_] what is the best brand of hex
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billcoe_ wrote:
caleb_danner wrote:
black diamond, wild country...

I'm looking to buy some hexes but wondering what brand should i buy. i herd that BD sucks is that true?

Good for you on getting some. They are lighter than the equivalent cam, so long routes you'll often do better. Furthermore, many areas take hexes real well, often better than cams. I followed a kid who did a ground up FA today and he used some. The larger sizes tend to do the best, as was said by others.

As far as which ones to get, they're all good. I think that climbing mag rated the Metolius and WC a tick better than the Black Diamond. The BD/Chouinards are very good though. I'd look to pick some up on Ebay cheap. If they have old cord, you can just retie new stuff. I still carry some hexes on occasion which I bought over 30 years ago, they don't go bad.

It's true that cams are generally easier to place, but there are times where falling on a hex is much safer. (camming a loose flake or block as an example, or where a classic bottleneck fits a hex but the flare in the back would cause a cam to walk with the slightest nudge.

You could just place a cam in opening behind the bottleneck. Or place a stopper. Or place a cam in the bottleneck and sling it long. I'd say that placements that take hexes better than cams are about 1 in 1000.

And honestly, if its loose, you don't want to place anything there unless you have to. Expando aid doesn't really figure into the beginner free leader's experience, right? The example you listed is not strictly speaking "safe" whatever you toss in there, and the better advice is simply "don't fall".


(This post was edited by petsfed on Mar 22, 2009, 5:15 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by petsfed () on Mar 22, 2009, 5:15 PM


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