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Re: [Lazlo] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor?:
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pfwein
Jun 22, 2009, 3:46 PM
Views: 8134
Registered: Feb 8, 2009
Posts: 353
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Lazlo wrote: pfwein wrote: Lazlo wrote: [image]http://www.spadout.com/wiki/images/Sliding_x.jpg[/image] This is called the "sliding x" and is a safe alternative to your setup. Would be better if tied knots in each "arm" to limit extension if a piece pulls. This is very basic stuff (although not always intuitive--the problems with the ADK don't exactly leap out to most people at first glance) and best learned from a good text and/or competent instruction rather than ad hoc questions on this site. Good luck and climb safe--you're not off to a great start I hate to say but that's OK, you can improve. If I'm only using two peices, then both are beyond bomber...and I'm not worried about extension. Limiter knots in a sliding x are pointless.
Limiter knots are not "pointless" although I agree they may be unnecessary in some situations (and I frequently don't use them). The thing is, it's hard to know how unnecessary they are in advance of one piece popping, and then it may be too late.
My more important point, which others have essentially reiterated, is that the OP should consult a text because he clearly doesn't understand anchoring basics.
(This post was edited by pfwein on Jun 22, 2009, 3:47 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by pfwein
() on Jun 22, 2009, 3:47 PM
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