Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [patto] Broken C4: Edit Log




wmfork


Jun 12, 2010, 4:26 AM

Views: 2111

Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348

Re: [patto] Broken C4
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

patto wrote:
wmfork wrote:
No, but it is a design issue. The smaller C4s (0.5/0.75 and smaller) all have this weakness. Both of my 0.5s have slightly bent lobes/axles.

How is it a design issue!!!? People seem to be suggesting there are issues with the design yet they don't say what!?
It's a design issue in the sense the smaller cams cannot take the torquing force when placed in such way the cam is not free to rotate into the direction of the fall. You can say it's not designed to handle such situation or what not, but these placements do come up now and then and some cams deal with it much better than others.

The issues I see:

1) head width: aliens have narrower head, and thus the axle does not take as much torquing force as an equivalent sized C4. Wider head also exacerbates the problem when placed in a shallow crack as it requires more depth to rotate/orient.

2) single vs dual axle, the latter has thinner axles, does not have the cam lobes completely wrapped around the axle, and is possibly more susceptible to axle bending/lobe warping

3) stem flexibility: stems on WC Zeros are flexible all the way to the axle (unique to all single stem cams in the smaller sizes), therefore having a much shorter lever to generate torquing force, the C4s, on the other hand, from size 1 (red) down, has stem that's rigid about 1 inch from the axle.

So call it design issue or weakness, fact is, there are other types of cams that could've handle the fall in the same placement better (at least in the sense of not rendering the cam inoperable).

(This post was edited by wmfork on Jun 12, 2010, 5:22 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by wmfork () on Jun 12, 2010, 4:28 AM
Post edited by wmfork () on Jun 12, 2010, 5:19 AM
Post edited by wmfork () on Jun 12, 2010, 5:22 AM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?