Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [wmfork] Broken C4: Edit Log




patto


Jun 12, 2010, 6:10 AM

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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453

Re: [wmfork] Broken C4
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wmfork wrote:
It's a design issue in the sense the smaller cams cannot take the torquing force when placed in such way the cam is not free to rotate into the direction of the fall.
Torquing forces along what axis? This cam was placed in a horizontal as I understand it. There is very little if any torque transfered to the head in horizontals.

wmfork wrote:
You can say it's not designed to handle such situation or what not, but these placements do come up now and then and some cams deal with it much better than others.
I would say that around HALF of my placements are in horizontals. There hasn't been an issue of placing cams in horizontals since the flexible stem was introduced.

wmfork wrote:
The issues I see:

1) head width: aliens have narrower head, and thus the axle does not take as much torquing force as an equivalent sized C4. Wider head also exacerbates the problem when placed in a shallow crack as it requires more depth to rotate/orient.
Lets not compare C4 to FailCams.

wmfork wrote:
2) single vs dual axle, the latter has thinner axles, does not have the cam lobes completely wrapped around the axle, and is possibly more susceptible to axle bending/lobe warping
Quite a good point. The smaller C4s are rated lower, lower that most other brands at similar sizes. Probably due to this very reason. I love my C4 0.3 for horizontals though!

wmfork wrote:
3) stem flexibility: stems on WC Zeros are flexible all the way to the axle (unique to all single stem cams in the smaller sizes), therefore having a much shorter lever to generate torquing force, the C4s, on the other hand, from size 1 (red) down, has stem that's rigid about 1 inch from the axle.
All this seems to be relevent for cams placed stem out, axle vertical. I love my Zeros and their truely flexible heads but it really is only relevent when placed when there is some vertical component of the in the axle alignment.

wmfork wrote:
So call it design issue or weakness, fact is, there are other types of cams that could've handle the fall in the same placement better (at least in the sense of not rendering the cam inoperable).
A C4 0.4 is only rated for 10kN. Sure using a cam rated for 14kN might have meant no damaged cam but it is hardly a desing flaw.


(This post was edited by patto on Jun 12, 2010, 6:13 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Jun 12, 2010, 6:13 AM


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