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Re: [TarHeelEMT] What piece caught your fall?:
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bandycoot
Aug 23, 2010, 3:40 AM
Views: 7201
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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If you're not falling, you're not climbing. I fall often, and have tested much of my gear....
Last weekend my buddy lobbed about 25' off of Ankles Away onto my 00 TCU. That was rather memorable. Especially since he had to head back up and try the moves again over the same piece.
In Ireland climbing at a Quarry near Dublin I set a 0 TCU in a wet crack 40' off the deck. I promptly slipped off above it, and it held. I was stoked since it was my only piece in at that point!
I took a nice 40' fall in Malaysia and had a 0.5 camalot slide about 8" out of the crack, finally stopping me with only two lobes. Yikes!
On my first trip up Romantic Warrior I blew the final move of the first 12a pitch. I ripped a #2 TCU and a piton finally stopping on another piton below. The fall was at least 25', probably longer.
One of the most memorable falls I've had was when I ripped a #3 Metolius on Kryptonite Crack in Arapiles. It was my only piece in. For some reason, my belayer had decided to wrap the rope around her hand "just in case" and kept me off the deck. Her hand recovered eventually. Best belayer I've ever had...
On another trip up Romantic Warrior on the last 12a pitch I fell, had my foot go between 2 brassies and the rope hooked behind my knee. I ended up hanging upside down in the corner with rope going up from the belayer to a #4 brassie, down behind my knee, up to a #2 brassie, and then down to my harness. My foot was pointed down and was pinned against the wall by my body. It was classic trying to get out of that one! If my leg wasn't semi-equalizing the two pieces I could have said a #2 brassie held my fall...
It's been fun.... 
Josh
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Aug 23, 2010, 3:43 AM)
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Post edited by bandycoot
() on Aug 23, 2010, 3:43 AM
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