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Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [jt512] Most Worthless Piece of Gear: Edit Log




milesenoell


Oct 12, 2010, 11:47 PM

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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
Re: [jt512] Most Worthless Piece of Gear
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jt512 wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
lemon_boy wrote:
the dmm revolver carabiner, without a doubt. i'm always surprised when people recommend using these for a top rope anchor, or other ill advised setups.

In what way are you suggesting that that is an ill advised setup?

In the way of not providing any friction to reduce the impact force on the belayer.

Jay
I suppose, but it seems to me that using them on the rope end of draws while leading (as I believe they are intended to be used) would be to subject your belayer to much higher forces in a fall than anything you would see in a TR scenario.

Edited to add: I'm not sure how much extra force we are talking about by reducing the friction (but I suspect you do) but I'm just not all that concerned about the forces in a TR system. (I also don't generally climb with anybody who significantly outweighs me.)


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Oct 13, 2010, 12:00 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by milesenoell () on Oct 13, 2010, 12:00 AM


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