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Re: [redlude97] Most Worthless Piece of Gear:
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jt512
Oct 14, 2010, 7:54 PM
Views: 5422
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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redlude97 wrote: jt512 wrote: spikeddem wrote: jt512 wrote: jbro_135 wrote: i like to use revolvers to reduce impact force when i'm top-roping on a sketchy single-micronut anchor Too bad, because when you reduce the friction on the anchor, you increase the impact force on it. A belayer getting pulled off the ground doesn't produce lower peak forces? Whether the belayer is anchored or not, reducing friction at the anchor increases the force on the belayer and decreases the force on the climber. If the climber is anchored (and the belay static), then reducing friction increases the force on the anchor because the increase in the force on the climber is greater than the reduction of force on the belayer. If the belayer is unanchored, then I'm unsure what the net effect on the anchor would be. Jay Just to clarify, you don't mean unanchored but just not leaving the ground correct?
No, I mean anchored and unanchored, and I'm assuming, pursuant to spikeddem's question, that the force is great enough that it would pull the belayer off the ground (if he is unanchored).
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Oct 15, 2010, 2:11 AM)
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Post edited by jt512
() on Oct 15, 2010, 2:11 AM
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