Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [petsfed] Most Worthless Piece of Gear: Edit Log




ptlong2


Oct 18, 2010, 7:53 PM

Views: 4923

Registered: Aug 10, 2010
Posts: 102

Re: [petsfed] Most Worthless Piece of Gear
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

petsfed wrote:
jt512 wrote:
As I understand it (which isn't that well), the main difference between a Hooke's Law spring and an actual dynamic rope is that a dynamic rope acts as a dampened spring, resulting in lower impact forces than predicted by Hooke's Law.

That's pretty accurate to say. For the most part, the damping comes from internal friction, Hooke's law terms directed perpendicular to the force load, and non-elastic deformation of the rope.

There is some non-linearity in climbing ropes without considering damping. Look on the ITRS website for a 2001 paper by Weber. It's mainly concerned with static ropes but there are limited data from a slow pull test on a dynamic rope. The non-linearity over the working range is obvious. Less obvious is that for smaller elongations the effect is enough to change the prediction of 2x the climber's weight for a zero FF fall by about 10-15%. It's interesting to see the effect that knots have as well.

edit: typos


(This post was edited by ptlong2 on Oct 19, 2010, 4:07 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ptlong2 () on Oct 19, 2010, 4:07 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?