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Climbing Disciplines:
Indoor Gyms:
Re: [rschap] Leading in a gym:
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Jooler
Nov 29, 2010, 7:20 PM
Views: 14541
Registered: Mar 22, 2010
Posts: 171
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I think it depends on the people coming to your gym. The majority of gym climbers (wait for an uproar from the gym rats?) are newbies, people trying climbing for interest, etc. Therefore there NEEDS to be lower routes. However, not all gyms have enough new people coming to make setting lower routes worthwhile.
If the people coming are primarily "experienced" (which in my opinion means they can LEAD 5.9 or higher in a gym) then there is little benefit a gym will gain from paying their staff to consistently set/reset lead routes lower than 5.9. I say lead because I think that is the thing in question here.
One more thing (yea my post is all over the place...)...
I have to agree with the earlier post that said people should be comfortable climbing 5.9 and up before they lead. To be honest, if someone is having trouble top roping a 5.6, I would rather not have them leading that same 5.6 as the risks have increased substancially.
I'll quickly address what I believe the argument to that will be: what about those 5.9 top ropers who want to lead those 5.6s? A gym is a business that is there to make MONEY. I believe the majority of gyms do not set less than 5.9 for lead routes because their benefit (increase in $$) does not outweigh their costs (paying route setters to set/reset 5.6s). Make sense? That being said, its a gym to gym thing, one gyms perspective can differ majorly from another.
Edit: apologies for how unorganised my post is. Also, I think I just reiterated what vtg said in the post before mine...
(This post was edited by Jooler on Nov 29, 2010, 7:22 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by Jooler
() on Nov 29, 2010, 7:22 PM
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