jt512
Feb 7, 2011, 4:05 AM
Views: 6907
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: Why is it that climbers say things where they don't need the belayer to take action?
Good question. They shouldn't. Unnecessary communication is just an opportunity for miscommunication.
In reply to: Why issue a statement like clipping instead of using a command like "slack" or "take".
Well, "clipping" implies the opposite of "take," and is more specific than "slack." It implies that you need a certain amount of slack and that you need it immediately.
In reply to: Why say anything if you don't need the belayer to adjust from what they are currently doing?
If the belayer can't see that you're clipping then you do need the belayer to depart what he is currently doing. When you clip, you need slack faster than when you're climbing.
In reply to: Do you all discuss your commands with the belayer before you climb? Do you say "The commands I use are "blank" and they mean "blank" when you are climbing with a new partner?
For sport climbing, not if the climber is experienced, as there are a limited number of situations that have to communicated a limited number of ways that these are communicated, and two experienced sport climbers should generally be on the same page. With an inexperienced sport climber (including some experienced trad climbers), I'll explain that I will never rappel, and will expect them to lower me, and that I will give two commands before I lower: "take" and "lower," and that these are separate commands. I expect that they will already be familiar with the standard on-route communications: slack, take, up rope, falling, watch me, rock, fuck, etc.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 7, 2011, 4:07 AM)
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