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Re: [patto] Top-belay accident:
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cfnubbler
Feb 10, 2011, 1:12 AM
Views: 12119
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
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patto wrote: iknowfear wrote: Free Tip for survival of your seconds: NEVER release an autoblock without a munter in behind for the belay... (Don't believe me: try it out somewhere safe...) Pffft. I don't believe you. Why would you use a munter? Lock off before you release the autoblock and it is all good. If you need to friction belays in series to lower somebody (of regular weight) then something is wrong. (Yes, I have lowered off my reverso on quite a few occasions.)
The point of the munter (or some other backup) is not for the lower itself, but to guard against the very abrupt transition from autoblocking mode to completely released when one flips a loaded reverso or other plaquette style device. They tend not to gradually release, and instead suddenly go almost frictionless. Think about it: when a plaquette style device is flipped out of autoblocking mode, but is still attached to the anchor, it becomes effectively useless as a friction device until one redirects the break strand behind the device. Not having a backup in place when performing this transition is just plain foolish. A munter is one option.
(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Feb 10, 2011, 1:50 AM)
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Post edited by cfnubbler
() on Feb 10, 2011, 1:50 AM
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