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Re: [aprice00] Setting a TR: Getting below the anchors:
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jt512
Apr 18, 2011, 9:10 PM
Views: 6059
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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aprice00 wrote: How do you get below the anchors? So I've come across this scenario a couple of times and thus far I don't have a good solution for it. So the question is WWRC.comD ? Ex. 1 You have a route that is basically a very large free standing boulder. On one side is about 5.6 no anchors and tough down climb. The other side is an overhanging 5.10+ sport route w/ top anchors. So I climb to top via 5.6, run rope through anchors, and get ready to rap. After looking at it for about 15min. I cant figure out how to get below the anchors and opt for the sketchy 5.6 down climb. 40 ft. high nothing on top to tie to except one slingable flake.
Tie in. Run the rope through the anchors. Toss the free end of the rope down. Have your partner put you on belay. Downlcimb to the anchors, and then have him lower you. If you fall while downclimbing, you're taking, what, a fall-factor 0.1 fall? Big deal.
In reply to: Ex. 2 Another sport route (5.10+). On a ridgeline with a 5.6 down climb or very long walk off. This one has the anchors 10 feet down and a bomber tree up top. What I do is climb the 5.6 (I guess free solo). loop rope around the tree. biner the loop to harness. lower to anchors using tree as pulley (rope rubbing across tree). Next I tie in to anchors, pull loop from around tree, run rope trough anchors and rap down. (The only thing I dont like about this is the potential rope damage from the tree)
That'll harm the tree and your rope. You should rap from the tree to the anchors. Clip in to the anchors. Tie in. Pull your rope. Thread the rope through the anchors. Go on belay. Lower.
I'd consider using a sling around the tree as my rap anchor, and abandoning the sling, to save having to pull the rope around the tree itself, especially if the sling would not be visible from the ground.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 19, 2011, 7:18 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on Apr 19, 2011, 7:18 AM
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