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Re: [guangzhou] Trad climbing, what's in a name?:
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healyje
May 4, 2011, 1:30 AM
Views: 8787
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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guangzhou wrote: The clean climbing movement of the 70's was definitely about selling gear and not moving climbing forward.
I don't have the time or inclination to delineate all the ways this comment is completely full of shit.
guangzhou wrote: On a deferent note, when you look at old trad areas, in the traditional days, many of the routes that were "HARD" had more fixed gear then those that were easy.
Again, a complete crock; most of the "HARD" [free] lines were new.
guangzhou wrote: I remember having a conversation with a gunk's climber from the 60's, he said the hard routes were like modern day sport climbs, the pitons were put in, the second didn't bother taking them out, so the next party was able to just clip and go.
By definition the 60's weren't in any way part of the [70's] clean climbing era which was at it's root simply a realization cleaner methods of climbing protection could be devised. But as far as the climbing went, whether 60's or 70's, not weighting the rope when free climbing was a fundamental tenet they shared.
guangzhou wrote: I played on the cliffs outside of Dresden, a place that has plenty of Pyramid placed bolts. First Ascents took Months as entire climbing club went to the cliff together to establish a new route.
There was some pyramid placements of first bolts, and installation by any means of some of the larger ring bolts, but you again attempt to paint edge cases as the norm - pretty sad given Dresden had and has some of the boldest climbing and clean ethics around.
(This post was edited by healyje on May 4, 2011, 1:31 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by healyje
() on May 4, 2011, 1:31 AM
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