Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [linteater] My leader keeps taking tons of slack!: Edit Log




linteater


Jun 4, 2011, 2:46 PM

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Registered: Feb 17, 2011
Posts: 6

Re: [linteater] My leader keeps taking tons of slack!
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Thanks for your replies.

We actually did learn to lead through a lead climbing class at the gym.

I think one of the big things is that we're leading on relatively easier routes meant for practicing lead, so they put several options near the clip for clipping to accomodate short and tall people alike. On the last fall, my partner used a hold that really wasn't working for his height, and when I pointed out the big jug just above his right hand (before he fell and afterwards) he did concede that I had a point.

I'm mostly concerned about the fact that he pre-emptively takes 2 arm-lengths of slack, whether he needs that much or not. He doesn't even try clipping in with one arm length because he says he doesn't want to have to go back for more. I just wanted to know if that was normal or something we should be working on.

The gym employees have watched him almost hit the ground twice, and haven't said anything yet, other than to discourage me anchoring myself to the ground.

I will def practice pulling in extra yardage when I see him fall though.


(This post was edited by linteater on Jun 4, 2011, 3:02 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by linteater () on Jun 4, 2011, 3:02 PM


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