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Re: [areyoumydude] Climbers FA / New Climbing Areas:
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healyje
Jun 23, 2011, 9:07 PM
Views: 4795
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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areyoumydude wrote: So gluing a hold on a 5.7 was for your own selfish reasons?
Opdycke's call - I told him I'd be happy to either clean it or glue it; I was completely ok either way. The fact is if I cleaned it, a lot more than just it was going to come off. He made the call, I obliged. But had he not, I would have just cleaned off the whole section for my own climbing on it.
areyoumydude wrote: Placing anchor bolts in the middle of pitches on classic routes
This was an anchor replacement for the anchor coming off the tree and that spot on the ledge previously had an anchor. Relocating it there was Opdycke's call, I again obliged. People squawked, I pulled it and relocated it behind the tree. There's always been an anchor in that general vicinity (ledge or tree) and there still is.
areyoumydude wrote: replacing anchors on routes that you never do? That was all so you could get in more climbing days? Ok, my bad I guess you are selfish.
Yep. If you want early opens or to be able to talk about eliminating or modifying the closures than you have to have standing and Beacon locals had all the standing of a flea circus by the early 2000's. To get taken seriously it was necessary to show initiative, investment, and willingness to learn about the various interests, agencies, individuals, and laws related to managing the resource.
Replacing anchors showed that vestment and in tandem with honestly monitoring the Peregrines and learning about the science and law it allowed the opportunity to actually engage the various stakeholders on some reasonable basis. Beyond that I wanted to a) climb those routes myself and not on those shit anchors b) see if it might jump start a free climbing renaissance, particularly on the south face columns which c) would give me more partner options with people like Texplorer and Shane Polizzano. Who knew it would instead kick off an aid renaissance by the new generation of locals.
areyoumydude wrote: Yer a funny guy Joe. Keep it real. Yo.
"Keeping it real" has been more of a sad bumper sticker and call to the campfire than a reality out at Beacon and Dropzone in the last couple of years.
areyoumydude wrote: Oh and I heard that you claimed the FA of Stone Rodeo. Was that before or after it was chipped?
I didn't claim anything, my partner Tangen-Foster did the FA a couple of weeks before the date listed for the FA in Olson's guide. He'd never climbed at Beacon before and it was his first time down the trail. He saw it, dropped the rope and we got on it (we had no idea it wasn't a well established climb). Hell, he hadn't even seen the south face yet. Next day I freed the stretch up left from the Pipeline anchor up to the base of Silver Crow - still need to get back up and try to finish freeing that.
(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 23, 2011, 9:25 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by healyje
() on Jun 23, 2011, 9:09 PM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Jun 23, 2011, 9:10 PM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Jun 23, 2011, 9:11 PM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Jun 23, 2011, 9:25 PM
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