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Re: [ecade] Help Convert Me! :
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healyje
Jun 25, 2011, 7:26 PM
Views: 16009
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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The name of the game in learning trad climbing is and always will be finding and seconding experienced leaders - everything else is a less desirable way to learn trad. You don't say where you're from, but I'd say really do some detective work to try and find out who's doing trad in your area and do whatever's necessary to get in as many pitches with them as possible.
Barring that, then walking the base with a couple of slings placing and weighting pro is a good way to learn about placing and removing gear. As mentioned by others here, leading way easy routes placing lots of pro is the way to go if you can't find experienced trad leaders to second. Double up on the pro on anything that's a potential ground fall or makes you nervous.
Skip any form of top rope 'leading' - it's counterproductive. Better to learn to aid climb if it comes down to that.
In general when placing gear, the name of the game is geometry, geometry, geometry - especially with passive gear (nuts and hexs). Really get in there and study a potential placement down to the millimeter level for shape, constrictions, bumps, texture, debris, etc. - don't just slap something in.
The ideal for a nut placement is one where the geometry is doing all the work and needs either no 'setting' or a breathe of one, holds a fall, and still comes out easy. Remember it's not just about putting them in, they have to be reasonable to clean or it will be a nightmare for your second and slow going.
And it doesn't matter how long someone's been climbing, or how old they are, if they slam a cam where there's a solid nut placement then they're a noob. In general, always prefer passive placements (nuts) when they present themselves. Don't become someone who simply slamming cams as you'll not develop the skills necessary for when things get dicey and technical on the protection front.
Last, don't sport climb on gear (sprad climbing) - don't hang or rest on your gear - it isn't trad climbing and climbing on gear isn't the sole definition of 'trad climbing'. If anything, that by itself would be a 'souless' definition of trad climbing. The essence of trad climbing isn't gear vs. bolts, but rather not resting on the rope vs hanging (dogging) your way up routes.
In the beginning climb easier routes until you are confident in your pro and understand it what it's about and then push up the level of difficulty as you become more confident in your placements. Once you are actually confident and probably have taken a fall or two along the way then go for it. At that point when you fall, lower either back to the belay or to the last solid rest and give it another go - don't dog up the route - it isn't trad climbing and it will definitely bite you in the ass with a failed placement sooner or later.
Again, try to find experienced leaders to follow - it's the best way to learn.
(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 25, 2011, 7:27 PM)
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Post edited by healyje
() on Jun 25, 2011, 7:27 PM
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