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Re: [billcoe_] Climbers FA / New Climbing Areas:
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billcoe_
Jun 29, 2011, 8:44 PM
Views: 737
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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I just clicked on that picture and realized I actually named very few of those routes. Usually it was the person I was with who named it, and I suppose that reflects my lack of literacy or imaginative....or most likely both.
I usually was fine with any name suggested. Grey Ghost was an old Dog of Ben's that had passed on and that was his wife's idea to name a route after the pup. Ill add that my son named the one we did called "Runaway Weasel". He wanted to name the next one "Prancing Unicorn"....but a man has has to be a man and draw the line someplace: and Prancing Unicorn was just over the line for a route name.
Furthermore, I just realized that I screwed up the bolt count and didn't really do all of the routes out there. I did all the routes in the picture except one. (maybe screwed up a bunch of other stuff as well) Adam Winslow and I did Bewitched up the buttress of the Old Witch Pinnacle (Ben and Scott are on her in the picture below) , but 2 guys came in later and did a fine direct over the roof variation on Bewitched that added 2 more bolts. In fact, the one fella I've gotten to know much better since then and have been getting out some with. He took that 2nd picture up there of my wyde ass in the offwidth. Chad Ellers. Chad had done the Bewitched Direct line with his buddy Josh and they were his bolts. My involvement in that was limited to having Chad ask me what I though of the direct idea. ("Woot! go fer it dude!")
Whew. Start forgetting stuff right away. I remember that all I could think of all winter was that route. I named it Bewitched cause that's what happened to me. The snow came and locked the place up tighter than a parakeets asshole. I thought of it only when I was awake, I thought of it when I was sleeping. I thought of it when I was at work. I looked at pictures of it day and night. I thought it it during conversations, I though of the route while having sex, while watching a movie. Day and night night and day. In the car. In the house. While outside. I thought of it while yelling at the kids. I though of it at parties. No joke, had multiple dreams of the bitch and it went on for many many months. I literally woke up every morning thinking of it, usually remembering the dream I'd been having of it. But the point is that I did all the routes except that Chad and Josh later did the direct variation on Bewitched and added 2 bolts.
These 2 guys seen doing a repeat of a route below on the only gear only/no bolt route out there named a few of them. I did this route ground up solo. Here's a close up looking out from the cliff, the lower picture of Ben and Scott is the same pinnacle but looking the other direction.
Ben (Priestly) the one dressed in Orange on top in this picture had the Grey Ghost idea (you can click on it to see it better). The lower fella, Scott Peterson coming up, named a couple of others including the one that still cracks me up "Better than Sex". LOL!
You can click on it and make it larger or you can't see them hardly at all, but this is the same pinnacle and route as seen in the upper picture.
Some of these things still need 2nd and even 3rd pitches. I ran out of juice and moved on although I can tell from this very post that not all of the craziness has left me yet. In either case, although I did all the lines, it's most likely time to give her to the world and walk away......YES! MUST WALK A>>W>>A>>Y>>>!!!NO!
NO....must have my preciousssssss.......
Seriously psychotic. No joke. It's damn dirty, dangerous, brutally hard work and a thankless task. Do it cause you want too. I have a dog that's hardwired to kill small rodents and rats. But I've also seen lots of dogs that won't even look twice at a rat, yet this one LOVES it. The anticipation, the chase, the grab, the shake, the blood. Everything. Hardwired. Maybe you'll try it and dislike it, maybe not. At least see how the game gets played and how you feel about it. Shake out a couple of routes and see.
Shit. Recovery is a long process.
Hope it helps you out some.
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Jun 29, 2011, 9:50 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 8:49 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 8:51 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 8:59 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:02 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:14 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:16 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:23 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:27 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:31 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:36 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:40 PM
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Post edited by billcoe_
() on Jun 29, 2011, 9:50 PM
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