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Re: [hugepedro] 6mm Cord for top rope anchors:
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rescueman
Aug 24, 2011, 4:21 PM
Views: 10375
Registered: Mar 1, 2004
Posts: 439
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hugepedro wrote: Seriously, dude, read the dang report again and see if you can figure this out for yourself.
In fact, it is you who has failed to either read or comprehend the data and conclusions in this report. Or, rather, who chooses to use it selectively to support your own position.
I had earlier posted this image from the Attaway report, which is specific to impact forces in top roping and gym climbing:
While it may be true that most TR falls are of low FF, low impact and low consequence, failure of imagination to include the entire range of "credible" events that might cause a more significant impact force is what leads to disaster.
For instance, I've seen top ropers top out beyond the top anchor for a variety of reasons. I've seen climbers wandering off route - or onto another route from the same anchor - and sometimes getting the rope caught on a rock feature and climbing above the snag until it can be freed. And I know that some climbers routinely use static lines for top-roping to minimize stretch while hang-dogging.
There are, in fact, many credible scenarios that can cause much higher FF falls. And, as I mentioned earlier, rope drag and friction between the belayer and the anchor effectively increases FF by reducing the effective rope length that can absorb energy.
Though you earlier disparaged my emergency management experience, the algorithm that all risk management and disaster mitigation is based upon is the Risk Matrix, or probability vs. consequence matrix.
We don't put much effort into trying to plan for or mitigate low probability events with low consequence. We put effort into planning for high probability events of high consequence, though those are the ones that most people consider and try to avoid. We put some effort into planning for high probability events with relatively low impact because they happen so often. But the most effort often has to go into planning for low probability events that have high consequence, because those are the ones most people never bother considering or preparing for ("it can't happen to me", or "it's a one in a million chance").
We put lightning rods on our barn roofs, not because we expect lighting to strike often, but because we don't want to deal with the consequence of losing the barn.
Those who set up top rope anchors thinking that nothing can go wrong or be out of the ordinary, are the ones I, as a wilderness EMT, will end up evacuating and transporting to the ER (or the morgue).
(This post was edited by rescueman on Aug 25, 2011, 2:17 AM)
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Post edited by rescueman
() on Aug 25, 2011, 2:17 AM
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