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Re: [scrapedape] 6mm Cord for top rope anchors:
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rescueman
Aug 24, 2011, 4:29 PM
Views: 10367
Registered: Mar 1, 2004
Posts: 439
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scrapedape wrote: Ok, but... 1.5X is just the force on the climber's end of the rope. The force on the anchor will be the sum of these: 1 + 1.5 = 2.5... don't delude yourself, or anyone else, into thinking that you have a firm grasp on the actual numbers.
I stand corrected. I do occasionally make calculation errors, like anyone else.
And you're quite right that the force on the belay is secondary to the primary force of the fallen climber.
Edited to add: funny that I was typing this response as bearbreeder was posting his typical pile of bear shit. It's often appropriate that the email notifications come from "noreply@rockclimbing.com", because there is simply no reply to a pile of shit.
But, for those who are interested in statistical analysis, Attaway's use of large population survey data and random combinations of mulit-variant survey results to estimate actual field experience is how science works in this world. Attaway also includes several disclaimers with conditionalities that could either increase or decrease his statistical results. But, unlike bearbreeder, he knows what he's doing and his results are published by the AMGA among others.
(This post was edited by rescueman on Aug 24, 2011, 4:52 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by rescueman
() on Aug 24, 2011, 4:52 PM
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