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Re: [cracklover] Grigri for lead belay:
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fresh
Nov 17, 2011, 12:03 AM
Views: 4632
Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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cracklover wrote: Sorry if that didn't answer your question the way you'd like. What it boils down to is that there are certainly many situations in which using a gri-gri versus a standard tube device could mean the difference between whether or not a top piece fails, and other cases in which it would make no difference. GO
I was talking with one of the big name NH guides about it, and he said he prefers a grigri almost all the time when climbing. you also see the grigri being used for trad belaying in climbing videos, even when the gear is marginal. but there's still a decent amount of fervor against using a grigri for trad climbing. I'm not sure if it's justified.
my own feeling is that as long as you can give a dynamic catch, it's all the same anyway. maybe there's a marginally greater force with a grigri, but it's probably not enough to matter.
one situation where the grigri would certainly cause more force is in a factor 2 fall. but then, most people would need a death grip (and gloves) to make that catch anyway with an ATC.
more opinions welcome! especially those that challenge my gut feelings on the matter.
(This post was edited by fresh on Nov 17, 2011, 12:05 AM)
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Post edited by fresh
() on Nov 17, 2011, 12:05 AM
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