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Re: [johnwesely] Habits of the Many-Pitchers:
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bearbreeder
Jan 24, 2012, 6:44 AM
Views: 7979
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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1. do multipitch ... serious multi, not just the 2-3 pitch wonders ... im talking like 500m+ of vertical gain ... youll easily get 10+ pitches in a few hours
2. on said multi climb with a partner who is quick at following ..
3. if you lack said multi ... climb below yr level for maximum mileage ... obviously climbing at yr limit or projecting stuff takes up more time generally ...
4. climbing climbs youve done before goes faster usually than those yr trying to flash/onsight ... you know the moves and gear already
5. make it an goal that you MUST get X number of pitches in ... even if you need to do them by headlamp at the end of the day ... they can be easy "filler" pitches ... it gets you into the habit of non stop climbing
6. make a resolution that you wont yap ... just climb ... most people lose time by yapping on the ground ...
7. belay from the top ... while it may seem to take more time to set up ... i find on quite a few climbs it actually saves time as there is no tendency to yap, yr partner is at the bottom ... it also gets you in the multipitch mode of efficiency where yr partner is tied in and ready to go once yr off belay ... good for practicing for multipitch efficiency ... if you can control the yapping, belaying from the bottom should be faster, but you need to treat it like multi ... partner should be ready and tied in to do with shoes on the moment you touch down ... and no flirting with hawt gurls
8. get a strong partner, not necessary a strong leader, but someone physically and strong enough techique wise not to have too many issues with the climbing and doesnt take forever ... and also as dedicated as you to mileage
9. have a set break time for water and lunch ... those are rewards for climbing ... not something you do between every climb ...
10. make sure you are well hydrated and nourished , and have enough sleep prior to the climbs ...
11. time yourself ... on multipitch if you are taking more than 30 min per pitch between the two of you on a climb somewhat between yr level ... theres a good chance yr descending in the dark on a decently long climb ... adopt the same headspace ...
12. adopt the same division of labour as multi ... on person flakes the rope immediately or moves it to the new climb, while the second reracks ...
13. DO NOT bring large packs ... a daypack or bullet pack ... with large packs youll end up bring shiet you dont need and taking it out/putting back in ... waste of time
14. just like multi have all yr topos and climb beta ready the night before ... you should know exactly what climbs you want to do with alternates ... also try to hit up crags with many climbs you can do ... instead of just one or two within yr limit
at the end ... treat it like multipitch ... and youll climb faster and be more efficient ... and itll server you well on bigger stuff
when i take a newer person up the chief (12+ linked pitches in 5-6 hours) ... i do a prep day where i lead 10-12+ pitches and they follow and clean ... or vice versa ... the sole focus is on speed and safety ...
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 24, 2012, 7:08 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by bearbreeder
() on Jan 24, 2012, 6:50 AM
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Post edited by bearbreeder
() on Jan 24, 2012, 7:06 AM
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Post edited by bearbreeder
() on Jan 24, 2012, 7:08 AM
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