Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible: Edit Log


Sep 30, 2008, 3:55 AM

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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 121

Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible
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Lots of good info here from folks link Dingus, but too many people (not all) are avoiding the question. Telling the OP to go faster on the East Butt of Middle is useful, but not what he or she was asking. For lots of us that route is a quick half day or less, so ask yourself what you would bring on a route that would be a really full day--perhaps into the night, perhaps a forced bivy--for you (whatever that is... valley to valley, NIAD, RNWF, etc.).

Now, my own answer is highly contingent on many things. How hot is it? Is there a possibility of precipitation (what percentage? what kind?)? How likely am I to finish in the daylight? In a push? Etc., etc. That being said, last weekend in Yosemite, for an all-day route I would have taken something like: 1 liter of water, a few bars shoved in my pockets, a light jacket (I'll second the Marmot Driclime windshirt--perfection), approach shoes (each climber clips 'em to the harness). If I think night is even a possibility, I add a headlamp and an extra bar of food. If I think night is a probability and, therefore, bivy a possibility, I'll add a beanie, wear a long sleeve shirt to go with the Driclime at night, shove a lighter in my pocket. Stuff your face with food and water before the route, as others have said.

I might (and have) go heavier or lighter than this depending on likely condition, how fit I am feeling, how bold I am feeling, how lucky I am feeling, who I am climbing with, etc.

So, after a long post, I would suggest: (1) less water, (2) light and compact food, (3) approach shoes on your harness, (4) lighter jackets around your waist or in a light pack (e.g., Cilogear 20L).

Have fun. You'll keep figuring out better and better systems. I'm still learning stuff after 25 years.


EDIT: Of course there other other light items that others have suggested as well. I always have a small knife on my harness, for example. And because I am pasty and Irish, I often carry a small tube of sun cream to reapply mid-day. The above comments were just to hit the bigger items the OP seemed concerned with.

(This post was edited by btreanor on Sep 30, 2008, 4:00 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by btreanor () on Sep 30, 2008, 4:00 AM

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