Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: Characterize your tolerance for unprotected climbing: Edit Log


Apr 23, 2009, 1:11 PM

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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Re: Characterize your tolerance for unprotected climbing
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Most all of my ropeless climbing has been up in the mountains, in a mountaineering context, (except for the (very) few times I simply sought to test myself on some local crag and what have you) to about 5.7 or on very rare occasion 5.8ish - you know, alpione approaches where you climb ropeless 2000 feet up a snow slope, climb ropeless across the schrund, climb ropeless another 500 feet up '4th class blocks' (haha, 4th class, riiiiiight), and then as high up the initial part of the climb as the team can tolerate. (usually ME calling for the rope - wah!)

In that context (mountaineering) death and difficulty aren't intertwined. Often the 4th class has more dada potential than that little 5.7 boulder problem to cross that block on the ridge.

But all in all? I range from Nervous Nate to Robot Rob in personality traits, when stressed by long runnouts or solos. I don't get manic and I don't have the guts to be wild. Robot Rob is sort of a shutdown... I don't think it is good for the soul.


(This post was edited by dingus on Apr 23, 2009, 1:12 PM)

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Post edited by dingus () on Apr 23, 2009, 1:12 PM

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