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Re: [camhead] do you climb better on sight or ...:
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jt512
Jul 9, 2009, 11:04 PM
Views: 1826
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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camhead wrote: jt512 wrote: olderic wrote: Obviously practice makes perfect and the potential is there to climb "better" in a redpoint scenerio - that is what the Jays of the world aspire too. But for us old timers on-sighting is for real - the rest is just a game. We try much harder and focus better during the on-sight. I'm not only talking about some committing runout R/X case either. The "for real" appplies to the over bolted grade inflated routes - the ones that the Jays of the world think are significant - you only get one chance - after that it's tainted (who can tell me the origin of that philosophy?). Consequently for me my on-sight level is within on letter of my redpoint (12a vs. 12b - so Jay can pigeon hole me). The worst scenerio is when you just barely on-sighted something - took everything you had - and then go back to repeat it - failure rate is high. Life-or-death, leader-must-not-fall, pre-modern-equipment alpinism. It died almost half a century ago. Since then, climbing has been a sport. Pretending that on-sight climbing is this type of "for real," "you only get one chance" climbing is just playing make-believe. Most of us grew out of playing make-believe in childhood. Jay Uh, Jay, all of climbing is contrived, non-sensical, and make-believe. I agree that it's contrived, but it's not make-believe. Most of us understand that it is what it is. Save the "uh"s for the—paraphrasing—"Olderics of the world." Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 9, 2009, 11:06 PM)
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Post edited by jt512
() on Jul 9, 2009, 11:05 PM
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Post edited by jt512
() on Jul 9, 2009, 11:06 PM
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