Forums: Clubs: Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way: Re: [jedasmith] When to throw the towel in??: Edit Log


Aug 29, 2010, 5:30 AM

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Registered: Jul 6, 2010
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Re: [jedasmith] When to throw the towel in??
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Hi there Jeda.

I would like to share my experiences with you also.
When I began leading I was climbing sport maby twice a year, and when climbing vertical lines I was scared to take a fall more than one foot past the bolt.
When I was climbing past vertical to nearly horizontial lines I felt more comfortable with falling because I was not going to make contact with the cliff. Over the years and going climbing and becoming a bit more skilled my confidence grew.
After watching a few videos of some free climbing I could see how these falls were taken. I still was not verry confident about falling and being uninjured.
I knew that I must not allow the rope to wrap around my leg so I would not be fliped over and hit my head. Over the years my climbing vacations became extended to two weeks then to two months at a time. Now I will share story about my first wipper.
The climb was completly vertical so there was no chance of skidding down a slab also nothing to hit on the way down. I came to a realization while leading a 5.11 face climb. I suddedly realized that gravity was my friend when falling; because all of my weight was pulling me down and not foward.
I was ten feet above the bolt reached high and slightly touched a two finger crimp. Then I knew I was in for the ride. I slightly hopped, posed in a middle stance(like the kind praticed in karate), and began falling. I allowed the rope to pass in front of me with my arms bent and hands in front of my shoulders in a sort of ready to push position. To prevent being cut open I was carefull not to touch the wall on the way down. The rope soon became tight in front of me and my feet hit the wall after all of my momentum was stopped. I had completly taken a twentyfive foot wipper on a vertical wall! I attempted to climb it agin. I wipped five more times. Then I started to get scared that I might break the bolt. So I used a stick clip the next clip while hanging from the bolt from a quickdraw. I was able to climb past the section that I kept falling on with ease, on top rope, and finish leading the rest of the climb with out falling. Aparently that spot is the crux. This climb is now on my list of things to redpoint.
I hope this story is helpfull for you. Please remember not to allow anyone to presure you into leading somthing above your current level of climbing ability.
If people are yelling at you-Just go for it! DONT LISTEN TO THEM. Maby that would be a good time to call it a day.

(This post was edited by KeitaroHoshi on Aug 29, 2010, 5:45 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by KeitaroHoshi () on Aug 29, 2010, 5:45 AM: spelling, sentince structure, and paragraphing errors

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