Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [j_ung] David Lama, Cerro Torre, and Horrible Ethics.: Edit Log

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Jan 25, 2011, 1:58 AM

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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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Re: [j_ung] David Lama, Cerro Torre, and Horrible Ethics.
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I think I may see where the OP has acquired his/her fervor to bring this subject back into focus again.

The above posts make valid points. Especially the ones that show that Lama did this in the 09/10 season. There was a thread on SuperTopo a few days ago that brought this subject back to the front page in the ever ongoing ethics battle surrounding Cerro Torre. In the first post of that thread was a link to Jason Kruk's blog. In it he has some interesting resources, articles, and reads behind what is quite possibly the most controversial route in climbing history and the fact that Lama has shown up this year to attempt it again.
    It has come out today that Lama and crew plan to climb to the top of Cerro Torre following Maestri's bolt line, then rappel from the top and rappel-bolt the best line for free climbing. Lama claims that this is the only way in which he will be able to complete the project within the next 5 years. He also says he can take the shit storm that is sure to ensue.


Climbing is a restless urge needing regular satisfaction. We assume rules and conventions, venerating our own traditions while at the same tine touting our own interpretation of traditions and flouting accepted customs and continually pressing for evolution, achievement, and change within our sport. One dedicated climber will instinctively recognize another; and will accept the world on climber's terms. This is not to say that climbers share an affinity nor do we share each others aspirations, though it seems that the concurrence of peers is important.

Since the beginning, climbing has been a story of evolution balanced by tradition expanding not-always unidirectional. The different disciplines of the sport each have their own codes of aid and practices and there has been a general acceptance between them. Influences by trends in society at large have a dramatic affect on the nature and outcome of climbs and how traditions are upheld. Out of the fear that the ethics, the tolerances, and the traditions of this climb's inherent history we now see a younger generation's ambition encroach upon that which historically has been a route of questionable ethics. It is easy to see how forces such as sponsorships has put out of frame the significance of a route such as the Compressor Route.

How may Lama's team's judgment, concentration, or performance be affected knowing the climbing world will be watching their ever move? It has been speculated that sponsorship may influence decision-making and community-oriented ethics and traditions; that the pressure to continue out of reasons of obligation when a rational community demands retreat and adherence to ethics and traditions. As always, climbers can choose what to use and what to loose.

To Lama and his Red Bull sponsors: Please don't rap-bolt a project on this controversial tower. Please don't rap-bolt a project on this controversial route. There are several other routes on the Cerro Torre massif that beg repeating; repeating in better style than adding scores of hardware to an already hardware heavy route.

I would like to visit this series of mountain peaks in my lifetime and be able to experience the history of Maestri's route and not see it become like walls elsewhere - covered in many offshoots, variations, and unnecessary hardware. There are other mountains just as proud that would welcome a new independent route on them; ones where a team could create the style and ethic. Leave the Compressor Route as-is. There's already enough controversy in Patagonia.

(This post was edited by epoch on Jan 25, 2011, 2:51 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by epoch (Moderator) on Jan 25, 2011, 2:06 AM
Post edited by epoch (Moderator) on Jan 25, 2011, 2:08 AM
Post edited by epoch (Moderator) on Jan 25, 2011, 2:26 AM
Post edited by epoch (Moderator) on Jan 25, 2011, 2:51 AM

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