Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [guangzhou] SIGN PETITION to Lama's sponsors; no support for bolting Cerro Torre: Edit Log




yanqui


Jan 27, 2011, 2:27 AM

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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559

Re: [guangzhou] SIGN PETITION to Lama's sponsors; no support for bolting Cerro Torre
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guangzhou wrote:
First, I don't think rap-bolting is bad style. In most cases, the botls end up in better locations and in this case, I think the route would even have fewer botls than if the line was bolted on lead. If we're talking about a unprotectable face climb, I see no reason to not climb the route next to the face, move left or right, then rap bolt a line.

zealotnoob wrote:
This isn't just any old lead vs rap bolting debate. This is a question of paying respect to the local and alpine ethic and the history of the stone.

Would anyone in this thread condone rap bolting Canon Cliffs or at the Gunks? How about on Grit or at that sandstone crag in the Czech Republic where you can'n use chalk or cams? I certainly hope not. And, in this case, we're not talking about some little local rock face, we're talking about arguably the most impenetrable and beautiful granite spire on earth.

Sometimes it takes a little activism to protect what you and your community holds dear.

The same ethics and traditions that allowed climbers to drag a generator up the cliff to place bolts. From what I understand, the generator still hangs there out of "respect to the first ascent" party.

I don't know if I'll ever climbing in Patagonia, I was invited a couple years back and decided not to go and put up some new routes in Asia instead. If I do go, chances are I'll be looking for nice long crack routes and not a fully bolted face climb. Witht hat said, if the line looks good, I would consider climbing a bolted face climb there.

Most people who climb care so much about how the bolts went in, on lead or ground up, but most of those same people couldn't tell me how the bolts went after they climb the route unless the guidebook tells them or someone else did.

The only person who is effected by how bolts are placed is the First ascent party on the first ascent. As someone who puts up routes in both style, I am 100% sure that the climbers who repeat my lines can't tell which one I bolted from the ground up versus on rappel. I can say that rap bolting helps me select the best possible line because I am not limited to handholds big enough to drill from, or hook placements when drilling. (I use both a hand-drill and a bosh.)

My two cents, if he's botling anew route that doesn't have gear, I don't care how he does it. If he's bolting a route that can be protected by gear, I see the issue.

I also doubt that thousand of climbers will go running to the Patagonia to climb this route.

I remember when Gulich put up Rider's of the Storm, the established community was again him saying it was suicidal, crazy, and plain not possible to put up hard routes like that in Patagonia, today, seems pretty normal.

Obviously you don't have a clue what you're talking about. The point is that rap bolting is a totally unacceptable practice on the peaks above El Chalten. On the other hand, there are a lot of one pitch rap bolted sport routes on the volcanic crags just out of town. If Lama is really interested in rap bolting a sport route, I'm sure no one would mind if he put up a "rad" new sport route there.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jan 27, 2011, 4:42 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 2:28 AM
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 2:31 AM
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 3:35 AM
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 4:42 AM


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