Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [guangzhou] SIGN PETITION to Lama's sponsors; no support for bolting Cerro Torre: Edit Log




yanqui


Jan 27, 2011, 2:50 AM

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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559

Re: [guangzhou] SIGN PETITION to Lama's sponsors; no support for bolting Cerro Torre
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guangzhou wrote:
Ethics in Patagonia are still being defined and will continue to evolve. When Gullich decided to go to Patagonia and establish a route using the light and fast techniques like those of Yosemite, he was laughed at by the established community of climbers who frequented Patagonia.

From what I remember of the time, yes, I was climbing then too, Messner more or less laughed at Gullich for moving the climbing in Patagonia ina new direction.

Today, the techniques of Yosemite are the norm in Patagonia, light and fast.

Bolts have been a reality on new routes there for long time. I think a rap bolted line of bolts placed to free climb a route is much more ethical than a bolt ladder to conquer the mountain.

Again, this is a new route with no cracks, no worries.

Some idiots are just scared of progress and resort to "That's the way we've always done it" attitude.

Why are you comparing Gullich's route to Lama's antics? This doesn't make any sense. Lama's team fixed ropes where this practice is considered unacceptable, placed new bolts on a classic route right next to cracks and then lied about what they did. And now he plans to rap bolt the summit wall of Cerro Torre. How does this compare to "Riders on the Storm"?. Do you know what you're talking about?

There is no lack of clarity about "ethics" in the Fitz Roy Area: ABSOLUTELY NO RAP BOLTING. Isn't that easy to understand and clear?


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jan 27, 2011, 2:58 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 2:51 AM
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 2:51 AM
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 2:52 AM
Post edited by yanqui () on Jan 27, 2011, 2:58 AM


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