Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [TheProducer] Top Rope Soloing with Petzl Ascension ascender: Edit Log


May 25, 2013, 2:31 PM

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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [TheProducer] Top Rope Soloing with Petzl Ascension ascender
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Disagree with my brothers who say not to do it. Of course it will work and work fine. I've climbed with a single ascender, and have seen it done many many times.

Big Time Caveats: Don't allow slack in the system if you are going to fall. Which means, make a move, more the ascender, make a move, move the ascender. Repeat. It's a good workout and great practice for trad leading where you have to hang on with a single hand to fumble in a piece. Remember that ascenders are not designed for lead falls. Zero to little slack in a fall.

Next: in your scenario you have 2 fixed ropes (ie, you had the middle of the line with a figure 8 into a powerpoint.) Rappel a single line to get to the base making sure that you won't lose control due to less friction. As you get to what you perceive are rests right before cruxes, wrap the rope a few times around your thigh or otherwise lock off the rap (be a good idea to tie in short if you have any doubts and if you do this with the ascender make sure you will be able to underweight the rope to free it:-), take the free line right in front of you and tie off a figure 8. Do that several times. When you get to the base, you are looking up at a line with no knots that your ascender will go on, and another one that is just knots. As you slide the ascender up and climb to each rest, clip off your pre-tied knots to a locking biner.

Some people like to have a couple of biners down there on the belay loop so that you clip the high knot and can drop the lower one which you no longer need.

In fact, I've been burned by partners not showing up and used the "clip the knots" version exclusively as I had no ascender. You wind up looking at what amounts to a leader fall if you only use the knots, so plan them carefully:-).

Are there better ways: sure. Will this work fine: sure. If you were feeling really dicey, have 2 power points, one for the ascender side of the rope and one for the backup knot rope. Very redundant.

I've used mini-trax's, Gri-gris, Soloist, Silent Partner, Ushba and some other Monkey horseshit over the years. This will work and work fine if that's what ya own, but don't let slack built up on the ascender rope or plan on replacing the rope you core the first time you fall too far.

(This post was edited by billcoe_ on May 25, 2013, 2:36 PM)

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Post edited by billcoe_ () on May 25, 2013, 2:36 PM

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