Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [viciado] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover : Edit Log




PAbeekeeper


Apr 8, 2015, 5:41 PM

Views: 28892

Registered: Mar 3, 2015
Posts: 18

Re: [viciado] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

viciado wrote:
The topos for Ralph Stover indicate that the routes are "trad" and can be lead on gear.

The topos are wrong. Trad is only done at Stover by those with a death wish; it's entirely rotten, fractured, slicker than polished limestone shale (cams don't grip) and large chunks fall off regularly. Not long ago one route (Gorilla?) completely disappeared when a schoolbus sized block detached from the top and rolled into the creek below. On a smaller scale the best route there (Neanderthal) is much, much harder than its 5.8 rating after a key hold at the crux came off around a decade ago. Happens all the time there, and in ever a decade of climbing there I've only seen someone do trad once. And that was on a 5.2 to the right of Practice Face because he didn't want to hike around to set up a TR.

As for the "norm", up until 2 or 3 years ago it was entirely toprope except for maybe 4 or 5 routes in the middle of the cliff. There were absolutely no bolts on that route last I was on it ~6 years ago. Nor should there be, unless your idea of a sport climb is 50 foot 5.4PG and 3 clips to the anchor (which is what Far Face Corner would be is someone bolted it).

Side note, I have a copy of the original guidebook for it at home to check the history of the route (not included in Falcon or the recent PA guidebook), but I'm out of town at the moment.


(This post was edited by PAbeekeeper on Apr 8, 2015, 6:05 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 5:45 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 5:45 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 5:47 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 5:59 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 6:01 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 6:01 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 6:02 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 8, 2015, 6:05 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?