Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [iron106] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover : Edit Log




PAbeekeeper


Apr 14, 2015, 3:21 AM

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Registered: Mar 3, 2015
Posts: 18

Re: [iron106] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover
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iron106 wrote:
Apparently his elaborate anchor was in question by other climbers.

Assuming the report of it being on Far Face Corner is correct I have a hard time believing this, given it's a bolted anchor with an easy top out thanks to a convenient tree just out of frame on the left of this pic (which was what was traditionally used for the TR anchor before the bolts went in a couple years back):



As for the approach, this pic is from the top of the climb and my wife (on the right in orange pants) is well under 100 feet away and 2/3 of the way down to the base of the climb. The trail runs down the obvious gully to her right, so basically from where she's standing to the large diameter tree in the top center of the pic.



Shot from the base:



90 degree pano that drastically exagerates the distance from the descent trail to the base of the climb.... It is well under 100 feet. Descent trail is up the right hand side of the pic to the small square of blue sky. Basically a wet staircase.



As for my being hard on the rock quality, well, I used to use Stover as the worst case scenario for testing my gear designs. Slick rock, usually covered in mud, fractured, and rotten rock randomly interspersed with solid stuff..... There's a good reason I don't trust cams there, as I've seen too many pull out of textbook placements when weighted. Also seen a lot blow out under light funk testing, cratering the rock. Have also have seen nuts and tricams blow out the rock when funked, which is not surprising given how fractured shale generally is... Unless it's square peg/round hole and I could clearly hang a truck off it, I'm not a fan of trusting it at Stover. Simply seen too many placements blow out there. Admittedly I was looking to blow them out, but isn't that the point of testing placements?

Typical rock throughout the cliff.... Solid stuff with fractures that exfoliate with the seasonal freeze/thaw cycle. And slick as snot to boot.






(This post was edited by PAbeekeeper on Apr 14, 2015, 4:06 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 3:26 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 3:29 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 3:31 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 3:50 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 3:51 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 3:52 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:00 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:01 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:03 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:06 AM


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