Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [iron106] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover : Edit Log




PAbeekeeper


Apr 14, 2015, 4:49 AM

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Registered: Mar 3, 2015
Posts: 18

Re: [iron106] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover
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iron106 wrote:
The rock is fine. I have lead a few routes there and have no deathwish whatsoever. I have read it is good practice for placing gear in the sandstone out west.


Not to put a fine point on it, Iron106, but what do you see in this pic of the anchor at the top of Far Face Corner? I see an expansion bolt on the right in rock with multiple horizontal fracture lines, above a large hole where rock that used to be there is no longer, likely due to normal freeze/thaw cycles on a fractured cliff that gets a lot of water/seepage.

Does this strike you as a "good" bolt placement in rock that is "fine"? Are you aware that expansion bolts work by way of trying to pry apart layers of rock?

Thankfully the rock the bolt on the left is in is much better. They probably should have put the hanger on top, well back from the edge with a chain hanging down, but Stover gets a lot of traffic from the pot-smoking highshooler crowd who like to vandalize things. Frankly I'm surprised the convenience anchors have lasted this long.




(This post was edited by PAbeekeeper on Apr 14, 2015, 5:12 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:52 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:53 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 4:59 AM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 14, 2015, 5:12 AM


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