What level do you climb at?
What do you want to train (specifically)?

A set of dumbells or kettlebels in addition to the exercises listed in the dragondoor web sit, will make you very strong-go from climbing 5.11 to 5.14 in a year! !

good luck!

I´ll leave it at: Liar.

How? Explain.

I´ll leave it at: Liar.

Dude, he´ll need an effing miracle if he follows your "advice".

I´ll leave it at: Liar.

Dude, he´ll need an effing miracle if he follows your "advice".

How? Explain.



Why? Do you know him/her? Encouragement is a good thing. If you have better advice, post it and let the person decide. Giving insults makes you look like a moron- not an insult, just an observation.

Because most people will never climb anywhere near 5.14, so saying it´s possible to go from 5.11 to 5.14 in 12 months sounded like a lie to me.

You may be right. Most people will never climb 5.14. And many people will be happy climbing 5.11 forever, just because they like to climb, be outdoors, be around friends. But if you are like me, you are always trying to climb harder. Granted, this philosophy is not for everyone. But if it works for you, aim high.

A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug.

i highly recommend a hangboard routine for those looking to improve sport-specific strength, but practice restraint at first to avoid injury. Frankie Ocasio outlines a pretty good routine here: http://www.8a.nu/site2/ (click on articles and then hangboarding).
clearly a campus board has its benefits as well, but i feel that you definitely get more bang for your buck with a hangboard. (i have owned boards made by both Pusher and Nicros and prefer both over Metolius.)

Nope. Although the bowflex does allow some freedom of range of motion, you dont get the same range of motion with a bowflex that you would with free weights (or whatever the hell these dragondoor ppl use [kettelbells?]).

Range of motion is not relevant to developing strength. You can strengthen a muscle with isometrics.

A bowflex will develop strength just like weights. Your muscles don't know the difference, and neither does jitterbug.

maybe a good idea to mix it up a little

Well my question is, after reading some of the responses, Am I screwing myself by weight training twice a week? I was doing weights three times a week, and maybe running one day on the weekend, plus my active lifestyle. But since I got into rockclimbing, I've moved down to twice a week weight workouts, running at least three times a week, and climbing at least one day on the weekends (there are no crags or gyms here, have to drive at least 2 hours). I have been getting pissed off b/c even though I can climb much harder now than when I first started out (I didn't notice until I went back to a boulder that kicked my ass before and breezed through it)I am bulky. I never do less than 12 reps, but my trainer keeps putting on more weight, so I have gained a little bit. I have less flab all over, and I'm much harder, but my chest and stomach sticks out more. I don't mind my arms and legs being bulkier, I had hardcore chicken legs before, but this stomach s--- is annoying. I weigh 202 now and am 6 feet tall. I imagine I could climb alot harder if I had the same arm/leg strength but about 20 less pounds. My trainer tells me this is diet, but I want you guys input. Should I could out all the crunches, leglifts, squats, benches, curls, etc. etc. and just run my ass off, or do I really just need to cut down on the chicken wings?

franko
Posted: 27 Oct 2005 06:23 Post subject: Re: Most Effective Training Tool/Method
Jitterbug said that a bowflex would do absolutely nothing to help the posters climbing. That's flat wrong. Any strength building exercise will help anyone's climbing. No doubt some exercises are more effective than simply pumping iron, or in the case of bowflex plastic, but being stronger helps. Trust me on this one...

best training tool?........motivation.

Well my question is, after reading some of the responses, Am I screwing myself by weight training twice a week? I was doing weights three times a week, and maybe running one day on the weekend, plus my active lifestyle. But since I got into rockclimbing, I've moved down to twice a week weight workouts, running at least three times a week, and climbing at least one day on the weekends (there are no crags or gyms here, have to drive at least 2 hours). I have been getting pissed off b/c even though I can climb much harder now than when I first started out (I didn't notice until I went back to a boulder that kicked my ass before and breezed through it)I am bulky. I never do less than 12 reps, but my trainer keeps putting on more weight, so I have gained a little bit. I have less flab all over, and I'm much harder, but my chest and stomach sticks out more. I don't mind my arms and legs being bulkier, I had hardcore chicken legs before, but this stomach s--- is annoying. I weigh 202 now and am 6 feet tall. I imagine I could climb alot harder if I had the same arm/leg strength but about 20 less pounds. My trainer tells me this is diet, but I want you guys input. Should I could out all the crunches, leglifts, squats, benches, curls, etc. etc. and just run my ass off, or do I really just need to cut down on the chicken wings?

All this hang-board stuff sounds like a good way to get really good at hanging from stuff and not moving. That helps you not fall, but I would suggest that climbing is going to help you climb more than hanging (or doing pull-ups) ever will. Aside from all that, just hanging there sounds way less fun than climbing.