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jsj42
Feb 9, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Soloing, Falling, and Living to Tell About It:
January 5th, 2006
Since I first started climbing the longest my hands have been away from rock has been two weeks. Now, five years (and over 1000 routes) later, I was climbing as well as I ever had: I was a solid 5.11 leader, I had a dozen 12’s under my belt, and I was tantalizingly close to my first 13. But in some ways I had reached a plateau. I needed to shake things up a little, get some perspective, try something new. Maybe even take a break from climbing for a bit.
Interestingly, I came to that realization while in the middle of a climb – about 35 feet off the deck – and I was so taken by the idea that I decided to lower off immediately. Now some may call it an “oversight” that I was neither tied in nor wearing a harness at the time, but I prefer to think of it as efficiency. I mean what better way to spend some time away from climbing than in a wheelchair – simultaneously honing the arms while allowing those heavy, superfluous leg muscles to waste away? Of course, had I known how terrifying the fall would be (or how painful and costly rehabilitation would be), I probably would have gone with a more traditional training regimen, but hey, hindsight is always 20/20.
Six months ago I wrote a trip report on an ascent of Sykes’ Sickle in Rocky Mountain National Park. In it I mentioned that sometimes, while soloing, I’ve been forced to consider “…the very real possibility (and consequences!) of falling.” On January 5th of this year, that possibility became reality. I suppose that just being able to write about it puts me in the minority, and I cannot speak for those who have died or have suffered far worse injuries, but I would like to share some of my own experiences. And of course, hopefully answer the obvious question: "What is it like to fall?”
It’s scary. Very scary. Scary beyond anything I’ve ever known before and scary beyond anything I’d ever imagined. When it all happened, I didn’t have a lot of time to experience fear, but at various points since that moment my foot popped, even up to the present, I’ve felt that fear.
When it happened, I knew immediately that I was off; there was nothing I could do. I had no sense of time slowing down or that sort of movie magic – it was simply an instant of shock and disbelief followed by a fleeting sense that in a moment my life would be very different – and then I was hurtling towards the ground. I only had time for one thought: “Land on your feet.”
In retrospect, perhaps it was more instinct than thought, but whatever it was I believe it meant the difference between living and dying. I spun outward, back to the rock, and as I fell I could see my surroundings rushing upwards impossibly fast. My eyes came to focus only a split second before I hit: The image of my legs and feet extended downwards and the gray rock below me will be burned into my memory forever.
And the next thing I knew I was lying on my back staring at the white sky, arms and legs sticking straight up in the air like a beetle, screaming.
“No! No! Oh God no!”
There was no pain, but there was blood everywhere. I looked at my legs and desperately insisted that they weren’t my legs, that this wasn’t my body, that this wasn’t really happening. I was completely hysterical – and simultaneously trying to do a self-evaluation of my injuries. The whole thing was horrifically absurd.
Within moments, another climber arrived at my side: “Don’t move; you are going to be OK. My name is Peter, I’m an EMT.” I’ll never forget the sound of authority in his voice; I must have actually believed him because I stopped my screaming, in spite of the fact that I was convinced I’d broken both my legs. Peter told his partner to dial 911 and then turned his attention back to me: He asked me a few evaluative questions and then began to feel my spine and neck for injuries. As he did this I looked more closely at the bloody mess in front of me: I could see a large chunk of exposed bone just below my right knee, but strangely, other than that, my legs looked normal. They moved around, they didn’t really hurt… I could tell that something was wrong with my feet, but my legs seemed OK. Then I caught a glimpse of my left index finger and, forgetting about my legs entirely, I immediately started freaking out again – it was obviously dislocated – bent in a ghastly S-curve. At this point I began shaking uncontrollably. I felt terribly cold – I was slipping into shock.
Time seemed to pass by very quickly, and before I knew it I was hearing seemingly far-off voices discussing my condition. I distinctly remember being very annoyed that they kept referring to me as “the patient” when I was laying right there, perfectly capable of speaking for myself. More and more rescuers arrived on the scene and as I woke from my dream-like state I began to contribute random shock-deluded opinions as to how the rescue should be executed. I became increasingly agitated that no one seemed to take me seriously, especially when I repeatedly demanded (“Fix it! Fix it now!”) that someone relocate my finger.
A new face, silhouetted by the white sky, appeared above me. It was a firefighter from the Cherryvale Fire Department, who, along with the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, was handling my evacuation. He asked me how I was doing. “Super,” I said, and I managed a completely artificial, teeth-clenched smile. I then tried a different approach: “Would you please relocate my finger? That would make me very happy,” I asked in my nicest voice. He declined and then began to explain how they were planning on getting me down to the road. He told me there was a paramedic waiting there with pain meds, and that if I wanted he could bring them up to me. Incredulously I asked, “Do you really need to ask me that?” As the surges of adrenaline were fading, the pain had begun. But after the firefighter explained that meds could potentially delay the rescue by as much as fifteen minutes, I promptly declined and instructed him to “Get me out of here as fast as possible!”
Over the next hour I was covered in blankets, put in a c-collar, secured in a litter, and carried and lowered several hundred feet down to the road and the waiting ambulance. As we drove off, the paramedic got an IV going and gave me Fentanyl – a morphine derivative – and life started to seem a little better. I remember thinking, “Man, I guess I’m not worthy of the sirens,” but I was too tired to argue. The ambulance drove the speed limit the 9 miles to Boulder Community Hospital.
Several hours later I discovered the good news – that I had no internal injuries or spinal trauma – and the bad news – that I had broken both of my feet. The doctors looked at the MRI's in disbelief that that was all that was wrong. The cuboid in my right foot had a minor, non-displaced fracture, and the navicular in my left foot had been completely destroyed. 15 some-odd pieces. The doctors stitched my knee back together, and they also finally reduced my index finger to its normal position, most of this being done under the pleasant influence of an intravenous Dilaudid drip. Ten hours later my nurse and ER doc reluctantly released me to the care of my girlfriend with a prescription of Percocet and referrals to several orthopedic surgeons.
***
So, what do I think of soloing now?
That’s what most of my friends (climbers and non-climbers alike) seem to want to know. Have my views changed since that journey up Sykes’ Sickle?
I am very lucky to be alive. A few days after I was released from the hospital I caught a ride into Eldo to retrieve some personal effects from my car – which was still sitting in the parking lot. From the passenger seat I was able to see the roof I fell from, and I shook my head in disbelief. I am very lucky to be alive.
So, yes, of course my views on soloing have changed. I’d be a fool if I didn’t look closely at my own climbing and reevaluate what I was doing. Only an hour before the accident, I was halfway up Ruper, a classic six-pitch 5.8 - the first climb I had soloed that day. I had paused on a ledge to catch my breath and take in the view, and I remember thinking of all the things that were important to me: My friends and family. The direction my life was going, the experiences I looked forward to having. Am I a thrill seeker? No. Did I have something to prove? No. I just loved to climb. But will I solo again? No.
I’m not sure that my attitude towards soloing itself has changed; rather, it’s a deeper understanding of what’s important to me. A reorganization of priorities if you will. I enjoyed soloing, and I understand why I did it; it’s just that I can see now that the math didn’t make sense: 99% of the enjoyment I get out of climbing has nothing to do with ropes, and that 1% of enjoyment that I could only derive from soloing is simply not worth the risk. From a climbing perspective alone it was shockingly illogical: There are just too many routes on my tick list (which is a mile long) that, had this accident been any worse, I might never have had the chance to climb.
Climbing is dangerous – and of course, as I mentioned in the Sykes’ Sickle trip report, so is driving a car to the crag for that matter – but there are ways to minimize the risks. For me this is about staying alive to climb again, not about sanitizing or mass marketing the sport. Prior to the accident, I had wanted to repeat Jules Verne, a notoriously run out climb in Eldo that I had previously onsighted. Now I realize that a better place for that climb is in my memory; my ascent was as flawless as I was capable of doing, and that’s enough. What else has changed? My passion for climbing is as strong as ever, and my tick list is still a mile long, but I've tweaked it a bit. Bachar-Yerian (5.11 R/X) is off, but Shipoopi is still there (11+/12-). Sandstone Samurai (5.11 X) is off, but The Original Route (5.12-) is still there, The Serpent (5.11 R/X) is off, but Stoned Oven (5.11) is still there… I’m just thankful I have a second chance to make these sorts of changes.
***
As I write this, I’m counting down the days until the cast comes off my right foot: 12 days left! At that point I’ll be able to begin bearing weight on that leg, after having spent nearly two months in a wheelchair. The first order of business will be a nice, long, hot shower.
I have a lot of pain in my right knee – I’m concerned that its cartilage or meniscus damage – but it’s too early to know the extent of that injury. My finger is grossly swollen, and I’m told that it might remain swollen for as long as a year, but it is expected to eventually return to normal.
The left foot is the real wild card. I had surgery on it a short time after the accident, and now, three weeks, thirteen staples, 5 screws, and a titanium plate later, I'm still in a lot of pain. I can’t walk – or climb – on it until the plate and screws come out in early April - and I won’t really know how successful the operation was until then. But in spite of that, I can honestly say, if I come out of this with even close to the same level of functioning that I had before the accident, that this whole experience will be one of the best of my life. I don’t know if coming so close to death has had a big impact on me or not, but I do know that the trauma of the accident, the pain, the hospital bills, and the loss of independence that comes with this sort of thing have taught me a lot about myself and my world.
I’m anxious about returning to climbing. I miss it terribly, and I’m simultaneously looking forward to it and afraid of what I might not be able to do when I return. There are lots of unknowns at this point. If the worst outcomes are realized, will I be able to compensate for my weaknesses in other ways? Will my dream climbs even be feasible for me?
Personally, I’m putting my money on the best outcome. In a few months’ time I will be climbing harder than I ever have before – after all, my arms are already getting way honed from pushing this wheelchair around, and now that my legs are about ten pounds lighter… When I return I'll be unstoppable! This fall Ruby’s Café is going down – that is, if my swollen index finger still fits in the locks.
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leapinlizard
Feb 9, 2006, 10:53 PM
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Good luck, and stay driven. I have a very good friend that took a 20 footer and just swung into the wall wrong, shattering his tibia and fibia into dust. 5 years later he has climbed at his previous level. The only catch is now he is having trouble just walking. The best advice I can give you is to overcome the need to climb and take things slowly. This way you will have the best of both worlds. Good luck and quick recovery..
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styndall
Feb 9, 2006, 10:55 PM
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Good work staying alive. I've never soloed, personally, but there have been times, usually when I'm futzing around at a belay, when I've done something stupid and only later realized it wasn't my fault that I didn't fall to my death right then.
I'm glad you're getting put back together, and your conclusions seem quite sensible to me.
As to thinking while falling, just recently, I was top-roping in the gym, belayed by some guy I'd just met. I came off the wall, and expected to feel the rope catch straight away, but I just kept going. I had time to think "Damn, I don't have health insurance," and "It sure is stupid to die top-roping indoors" before about fifteen feet of wall had whizzed by and the dude finally caught me, getting jerked into the air in the process. Falling is a funny thing; it lasts way longer than it ought.
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crimpstrength
Feb 9, 2006, 11:23 PM
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powerful
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cal_gundert05
Feb 10, 2006, 12:20 AM
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Wonderful reflection, and damn fine writing. I took a small (maybe 8') fall after dislocating my kneecap bouldering, and your story brings back memories of lying on the ground, not in pain but very antsy from the adrenaline.
Thanks for your account, and best of luck when you continue climbing!
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crotch
Feb 10, 2006, 12:38 AM
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Wow Josh. That's really sobering. Best of luck to you and thanks for writing.
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moose_droppings
Feb 10, 2006, 12:44 AM
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So glad to hear it wasn't worse. Weird how unreal everything seems right afterward, the thinking process, no pain, and then the reality of the situation sinks back in. Stick fast to your road to recovery, seems that your mindset is in the right place. If you get a chance, look up the people that helped you and thank them, this all ways made me feel better, they appreciate it too. Amazing the amount the human body can endure and the mind can compensate for.
Thanks for the report, and good luck.
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healyje
Feb 10, 2006, 12:47 AM
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Stellar TR of both the climb and the trip your body and mind have taken. All the best and a speedy recovery...
P.S. Here's some other thoughts on it all from a recent ST thread...
http://www.supertopo.com/...ic_id=150521&f=0&b=0
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healyje
Feb 10, 2006, 1:08 AM
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P.S. Please feel free to blog your recovery here - it would be of great interest as recovering from a decking fall is the same whether solo or roped.
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justthemaid
Feb 10, 2006, 1:33 AM
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Wow!
That was a good read. Well written, and I have to agree with the Roughster. Anyone who considers soloing should see this.
Good luck with your recovery.
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wings
Feb 10, 2006, 2:23 AM
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Thank you for the post. I think if nothing else people should come away understanding this quote:
In reply to: I’m not sure that my attitude towards soloing itself has changed; rather, it’s a deeper understanding of what’s important to me.
I've always felt that having this knowledge makes life, and the difficult decisions that come with it, much easier.
- Seyil
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mistajman
Feb 10, 2006, 3:12 AM
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Thank you for sharing your story.
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steelhands
Feb 10, 2006, 3:17 AM
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I was impressed when I read your report on Sykes Sickle both from the boldness of the climb and the quality of the writing. I am likewise impressed with this most recent missive.
Sir, you have a fine mind and obviously use it. I have no doubt that you will maximize your recovery and soon be on to new challenges. Do us the favor of sharing them.
Also, I agree with other RC'ers, the words are worthy of publishing. Much less is often found in the mundane pages delivered to my mailbox on a monthly basis.
Heal well and regards to you.
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the_mitt
Feb 10, 2006, 3:20 AM
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(This post was edited by the_mitt on Nov 19, 2006, 6:26 PM)
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treez
Feb 10, 2006, 3:30 AM
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That gives me pause.
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radistrad
Feb 10, 2006, 3:34 AM
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I watched a buddy deck from 25', I could not get the image out of my mind for weeks. He was self belaying on toprope, fell, grabbed the rope and plummeted to the ground when his Ushba did not engage the rope.
edit, he broke both feet and 8 months later is still walking funny and not yet climbing.
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kydd76
Feb 10, 2006, 4:16 AM
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very great writing thank you.
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jeep914x4
Feb 10, 2006, 3:46 PM
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Great TR. I agree, it is well written and a great read everyone should check out.
Keep the positive mindset and good luck on a speedy recovery!
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cowpoke
Feb 10, 2006, 4:08 PM
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Glad you're recovering and doing well (all things considered). Thanks for writing this up. Your report on Syke's Sickle is one of my favorite climbing stories; combined with this Part II, your tale is extraordinarily powerful. Please keep posting on your progress (physical and psychological) -- I look forward to reading about you getting back on the rock and I'm curious to know whether this serious "scratch" has really cured THE itch.
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jabtocrag
Feb 10, 2006, 4:15 PM
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Great read!! I'm curious, how far was the fall and can you describe the "landing site"??
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omegaprime
Feb 10, 2006, 4:21 PM
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Thanks for sharing, it was a truly interesting experience, with some profound thoughts.
Please, do update us on your recovery progress. Wish you all the best in getting back on your feet (no pun intended).
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tonypurmal
Feb 10, 2006, 5:08 PM
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I really like your attitude towards the future and hope that you are able to climb at even a higher level than before the accident. Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts about it.
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alex234
Feb 10, 2006, 5:13 PM
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great tr. enjoyed reading about your experience. i wish u the quickest of recoverys. made me really think twice about climbing routes with sketchy gear placements.
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cracklover
Feb 10, 2006, 5:42 PM
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Well said, as always. I'd encourage you to get it published too.
By the way, you mention that you were halfway up the climb, that you were 35 feet up, and also say that minutes before you fell you were halfway up a six pitch climb. It took me looking back over the TR to figure out that these were two different climbs. Just an FYI.
Best of luck on a full and a speedy recovery.
GO
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brent_e
Feb 10, 2006, 6:14 PM
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I hope all works out for you!
Be well!
Brent
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jer
Feb 10, 2006, 8:04 PM
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In reply to: edit, he broke both feet and 8 months later is still walking funny and not yet climbing.
radistrad...tell that story in front of me or Josh and YOU'LL be walking funny.
Sensitivity tastes better than feet.
jer
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reno
Feb 11, 2006, 1:09 AM
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Speechless.
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billcoe_
Feb 11, 2006, 1:36 AM
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Schweet writing.
Thanks for the honesty and for sharing. Like everybody, wishing you well, but I want to add that for you, more than almost everybody else out there, you will have to be proactive about your diet or face pain later.
I have heard that from more than one person who faced and survived a trauma similar to yours. The late Rodge Smith for instance, fell off of @ a 100" pinnacle called Rooster
Rock headfirst into the Columbia river and was saved by an amorous young couple picnicking below. Thank God for flood stage waters. He had broken hip, neck, arms and a bunch of other stuff too ---etc etc. Diet was his way out of a wheelchair.
The shock for me on hearing your story, is that I've always felt that when I am climbing a lot, I have a much better feel of control over falling. On those times I have free soloed, I have been climbing a lot and it was way freaking exhilarating. Yours if the first story where someone was climbing a lot and the fall just seemed to happen unexpectedly.
It does change my mindset somewhat. I have family and responsibilities, but still.........
Good luck.
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glyrocks
Feb 11, 2006, 2:33 AM
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I started to write a long description of a free-solo fall I had, but decided not to post it here. Maybe another time if I anyone is ever interested.
I immediately begin riding and pushing myself once I could hobble well-enough to get to a bike. I was climbing ice again by the next season. Who knows if I made it worse, but I climb harder and better now than I did before I fell, but it took about four years to get there. Everything I do hurts, always will. But I can still climb, still free-solo occasionally. Honestly, what I've realized since then is that I'm reckless with my life. Some people are, some people aren't. It will probably kill me, but I'm okay with that. It's how I'm choosing to live and die, and that's the game we play. I don't risk other people's lives more than anyone else, it's only my life I don't take too seriously yet, don't think it's too important. I like my life just fine, and I know it's immature, selfish, and simply stupid. I know I'll regret it, but it's kind of like meeting a girl. You know you're going to get snaked, but you go for it anyway. C'est la vie.
Okay, well, now that my Dear Diary post is done, it sounds like you know what your priorities are right now. Stay focused on those, keep your head in it, shit happens to everyone so don't let it get you down. Just figure what happened, why it happened, but don't dwell on it. You sound like you are in a good place now, but trust me, the good feelings come and go. Congrats on learning and fixing a problem, that's the whole fucking point of living.
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shaggette
Feb 11, 2006, 2:54 AM
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Hey Josh,
These are the smartest and most profound words I have heard from our many convo's. Best wishes with you recovery. Climbing here with you in Aus, was some of the best fun climbing I have had, especially our day on Passport!
At least now, I don't have to worry about you running away in the middle of the night to solo on the watchtower face!
Peace, and mending,
Shaggs.
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ambler
Feb 12, 2006, 7:56 PM
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Josh, that's one hell of a story, a sharp sequel to Sykes Sickle, which also was one hell of a story. Thanks for posting something that gives pause for thought.
What was the route?
I'm glad things turned out as well as they did. Best wishes on your recovery from here.
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jsj42
Feb 12, 2006, 11:36 PM
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Hi everyone -- I just wanted to thank each of you who posted a comment or praise on this thread. I check it daily and it's extrordinarily encouraging when I read your words. I've realized that attitude in life really does make the difference, and it's important to make the decision to be positive each and every day -- especially when it doesn't come easily.
I wanted to answer a couple questions that came up. First, the climb I fell off of was the first pitch of Tagger (a 5.9+) in Eldorado Canyon that I'd previously climbed a dozen times (roped) and never had fallen from before. I had worked through the crux of the pitch (a traverse on smears and underclings), and decided to pause for a rest before pulling the (easier) roof and topping out. I looked over my shoulder to reposition my foot for a better rest, and the moment I unweighted it, the other popped, and I was off. When I placed the foot it never even crossed my mind that it was a foothold I had to be careful of (I've stood securely on far smaller/more sloping holds).
I fell 30-35 feet, and didn't touch the rock the whole way. The start of the climb is slabby, but you traverse over a steeper section which is where I fell.
The landing area was on an incline and consisted entirely of rock. I'm not sure exactly what I hit -- when I came to rest I was nestled in the only semi-flat spot (with angular boulders sticking up all around me) but the wound on my knee and dislocated finger make me think I hit something sharp. If I can get around ok on one foot next week when the cast comes off, I definitely want to go up there and check it out.
Five days before the accident (New Years Eve) I redpointed the Naked Edge -- a climb I'd been on 5 or 6 times over the past few years that had been a bit of a nemesis climb. The memory of sending it has been especially priceless in light of what unfolded a few days later. If I had to predict an accident soloing -- I always thought it would have been something more extreme than Tagger, but in a way, it is a good lesson to learn that a slip can happen at any time, on any terrain.
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cologman
Feb 13, 2006, 1:04 AM
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Josh, glad to hear your still with us. Re-evaluating is a process of healing, you will come to find more inspiration in your climbs than you previously thought probable. I haven't told to many of decking last spring when the second clip on a sporto route broke and I dropped a little over 20'. Knocked me out for a couple of minutes and bruised the livin shit out of me. I was lucky, but I've found a new found zeal for what it is we do, albeit I am pretty careful. I wear helmut now days that I use to hold in reserve for only "dangerous climbs".
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healyje
Feb 13, 2006, 11:12 AM
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Josh,
I'll preface the following comments by saying I've been climbing for decades, do roped soloing all the time, and still even do a bit of free soloing (an easy pitch here and there as part of that roped soloing). So please hang with me here as I'm serious and not making light of you in any way. Just want to try and work through some thoughts that have come to mind of late on the topic. You'll have to bear with me because I'm going to ramble a bit and not entirely sure where I'm going with it...
Looking over your profile and TR's it looks as though you've been operating at a reasonable level for some time and seen a solid amount of real yardage go by in some real world places (even if I can't tell how long you've been climbing). So when someone like you takes a dive it does begs some basic questions about free soloing. For me one of those questions is around the development of a climber's ability to make sound conscious and unconscious judgments of about the rock they are climbing on versus the role of luck.
Let's take two examples, and giving we're talking here, let's use yours on Tagger for one and Alex Huber's on Direttissima for the other. On one hand there is an experience like yours where you got "caught" by surprise by some unexpected aspect of a foothold you presumed to be good (bad luck); on the otherhand there is Huber's experience where he somehow survived getting up a route of what looks to be a substantial amount of choss (good luck). My question is how the hell is it that you, an obviously competent climber, got caught in under forty feet of relatively good rock; and Huber, even though a great climber, manages to survive 1800 feet of choss?
My question isn't really about either you or Alex so much, but about the question of skill versus luck. You were both climbing in what one might call home territory and knew the terrain and rock well enough. For me, I have to wonder on looking at the pictures of Huber in Alpine, how it is that he even thought one could get to the top of that wall of choss without something breaking off on him? There had to be some degree of objective probability that could happen, but he went for it anyway. What made him think he could mitigate, manage, or otherwise compensate for the possibility? From what I can remember of Tagger is seems to me it was solid and well within your abilities. Why did your foot come off?
So the question is: are these two outcomes a matter of luck or skill or both? I don't know the difference in yardage you and Alex have racked up but it's probably a good bet that Huber has a substantial ratio over yours. So is there something about the sheer volume of high-level yardage that builds enough knowledge, intuition, and instinct about rock and the movement of one's body over it such that you can solo that much more safely? On the surface of it, and based on the two outcomes we're using, one might easily be inclined to answer that question yes - but, if so, how would you characterize the learning? I don't think I can describe any such thing very well even after thirty two years of climbing.
And say you've acquired this superior skill/knowledge, how is it that one applies it to any given line? Yours certainly isn't the first fall; we've lost a few excellent climbers over the years to free soloing terrain they must have thought they could traverse with reasonable assurance. I have to wonder if Alex can even vocalize or otherwise put to words the process of the Directtisima go/no-go decision. Even assuming superior skills and knowledge of the rock, it would seem to me we're still talking 1800 feet of some degree of luck. And how does one navigate that? Faith, projection, or what. Given there are commiting dynos on the route and endless places where if one hand or foot blew there would be no compensating for it and he knew that. This sort of thing almost makes me believe in the possibility of pre-cognitive awareness and the projection of future reality.
Even with a significant ratio of yardage, skill, and experience I would tend to think that you on a shorter, easier, and solid Tagger would have more than represented a level playing field for Huber on a longer, harder, and chossy Direttissima - they both seem appropriate to the climber as it were. I guess another question might be is there some dramatic threshold of experience and yardage where soloing shifts and becomes a more deterministic activity far less prone to luck? On the surface it may seem clearly so but I don't know to be honest especially when you consider the fate of others such as Hersey and Adair.
To be honest, if I were a betting man I would have put my money on you on Tagger way, way before putting it on Huber on Direttissima. Curious what your thoughts on the matter are and I'll have to send a link to my main partner for his thoughts as he free solos much more than I and always has.
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swede
Feb 13, 2006, 12:23 PM
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Josh, best of luck with your recovery. Don´t be too quick climbing heavy stuff since this can result in permanent damage – take your time.
Healyje, one way of dealing with those things is to read a book on statistics. You will realize that luck isn´t in the equation – probabilities are.
No matter how much you learn there will always be a situation which you have not met before or when the thing that couldn´t happen did happen.
I would also have put a big heap of my money on Josh. But if I had the choice of putting my money either on that someone like Josh would fall or that Huber would make Direttissima ONE time – I would not hesitate to put all of my money, plus my housing loans, plus all that I would earn for the rest of my life on Huber.
Since you have been climbing for 32 years, maybe you remember the name of one of the worlds best climbers in the 50:ies that fell to his death on something beginners can do with marginal effort today?
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healyje
Feb 13, 2006, 12:32 PM
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Swede,
I've climbed Tagger and looking at the pictures of Direttissima - I'd still bet it all on Josh every time. I understand about the probabilities and that's exactly why I would have bet against Huber in this instance regardless of how good a climber he is.
[Edit: No I don't know the climber you're referring to...]
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swede
Feb 13, 2006, 1:38 PM
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In reply to: Swede, I've climbed Tagger and looking at the pictures of Direttissima - I'd still bet it all on Josh every time. I understand about the probabilities and that's exactly why I would have bet against Huber in this instance regardless of how good a climber he is. [Edit: No I don't know the climber you're referring to...]
My wording wasn´t clear enough. What I intended to say was that I am not talking Josh or one climb. I am talking everybody who climb solo well within their ability for a not too short time period. And the probability for at least one fall under those circumstances is very very close to 100%.
I sure never will come even close to Hubers climbing ability even in my dreams. But I am sure he gave it better than 50/50.
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tonybubb
Feb 14, 2006, 1:24 AM
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"Healyje, one way of dealing with those things is to read a book on statistics. You will realize that luck isn´t in the equation – probabilities are. "
I don't think it is skill or luck that is dominant, I think it is focus. I do not solo terribly often, but I do solo. I've soloed with Josh, in fact...
Beyond that point though, I also don't normally place much gear while leading and frequently run out leads to near soloing consequences, when I feel focused. This is not for thrills, it is just like soloing- I don't always feel that I need gear.
My good days and bad days for this I can feel. I can feel it consciously and subconsciously. I can feel it in my heart and in my knuckles. Yet my 'luck' and my 'skill' don't change (going on 20 years of climbing, by the way) just my feelings do. Normally, before I even arrive at a cliff I know if I am going to start off having a good day or a bad one, though that can change, depending upon my attitude, and ultimately, my ability to focus on climbing.
This is not a conscious effort. It is a subconscious effort. Think back to when you had your last 'amazingly good day' and you will find, rewinding that mental tape recorder, that you were not consciously thinking much at all about the particular moves, possibly save a mantra like "don't overgrip" or "push with left foot" the whole way for key beta sequences. The subconscious mind really determines these actions, as the conscious mind can not quantify them.
Ramble on...
Basically, I theorize that most people falling in something like Josh's situation were probably distracted. Someone like Huber probably can stay very focused. How anyone can climb the rotwand (a choss-pile near Tagger) in Eldo without dumping rock and pro is reliant on the same thing.
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kimgraves
Feb 14, 2006, 4:35 PM
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Josh,
Thank you. Good story. Very interesting. Very honest.
I've just read a book by David Roberts, "On the Ridge Between Life and Death" that you might find interesting. Something to do during your convalescence.
Get well soon.
Best, Kim
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dingus
Feb 14, 2006, 4:46 PM
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Hi Kim
I recently read this book. I too am still recovering from a near fatal accident, though I'm climbing and skiing again.
I would suggest holding off on this book for a while. At least for me, in the earlies stages of convalescence and recovery, a stubborn focus on 'getting back' has been the key motivation to getting out of bed, off the couch, letting the scrip pain killers expire, gentle top roping, and eventually leading again.
I personally believe the time for introspection or evaluation of climbing's role in my life is after I have gotten over the hump.
Roberts book is all about introspection of motives... and life long climbers would do well to read it and perhaps even do some similar consideration themselves. But doing that when you're laid up? I think it would be counter-productive in my case at least.
Cheers
DMT
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kimgraves
Feb 14, 2006, 5:05 PM
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Dingus,
Maybe you're right. It's a good book, that deserves to be read. I'm coming back from injury as well and found it useful.
Best, Kim
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healyje
Feb 14, 2006, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: I too am still recovering from a near fatal accident, though I'm climbing and skiing again.
WTF!!! Dingus, did I somehow miss some whole set of posts around you almost dying????? WTFH'd????
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dingus
Feb 14, 2006, 6:44 PM
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May of last year, coming home from a climb:
http://img196.imageshack.us/...62917r104420a1cq.jpg
Rolled at 65mph, slid down the freeway upside down for a while, hit something else and ended up on my wheels again in the oleanders.
http://img196.imageshack.us/...762917r10208a4ak.jpg
You can see where my head impacted and dented the roof. Broke my neck in three places, two fractures in C1 (the Christopher Reeves break) and another in c2.
My neurosurgeon told my daughter,
"We don't get to treat many patients with your dad's injuries. Most of them don't live to walk away like he did."
I have some lingering muscle issues from the neck trauma and if I look down at my feet the wrong way I can get one of those base of the skull headaches. But overall, I am doing remarkably well here in my 8th life. Best one yet!
I went climbing 3 months after this accident, Cathedral Peak with Burl. Haha, we simul-climbed it. The next route I was on was that wall with Brutus. I'm not leading like I was before yet... as I'm still also recovering from a broken ankle the previous season. But my head is right, I still love climbing and I get out as much as ever.
They always said it was the drive home that is most dangerous.
Cheers Joseph
DMT
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healyje
Feb 14, 2006, 6:53 PM
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Dingus,
GGGGGGRRRRRIIIIIIZZZZZLLLLLLLYYYYYY, dude!!!!!!!!!!
Youch! F#ck....
Wow. Well, now that I know there's been at least a little bit of equalization I definitely want to come down and go climbing with you. :shock: (Just keep me away from Brutus, not ready for him yet either...)
You are so damn lucky I can't believe it! You should by all rights be typing with one of those Stephen Hawking deals...
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 14, 2006, 9:47 PM
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Josh,
I generally don't read the trip reports because, unless they involve an area that i frequent, I find them very long and boring. A friend asked me if I had read yours and I told her what i just told you. I happen to notice that this was on the front page again and decide to see what all the fuss was about. I am glad I did. You captured the experience very well and made me contemplate a similar (though not as close to death) situation that happened to me. It's times like these when we hold close the things in life we cherish. Thanks again.
Josh
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thirdamigo
Feb 16, 2006, 9:14 PM
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Josh,
Once again, a great TR. I'm looking forward to participating in your climbing rehab this summer and maybe for once I can be the ropegun. Knowing you as I do though, my ropegun status will be in danger the day you can wait your left foot.
Bill
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piton
Feb 17, 2006, 6:33 PM
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wow! hope you have a speedy recovery.
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braaaaaaaadley
Feb 17, 2006, 6:53 PM
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Cool story and great advice. I wish you to a quick recovery and I hope that you will be 100% plus when you return.
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tradrenn
Feb 23, 2006, 3:51 AM
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Thank you for sharing your story, I hope you will have a speedy recovery.
If you ever get bored here is the link to a site with bunch of video clips.
http://www.filecabi.net/
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healyje
Mar 22, 2006, 12:11 AM
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Josh,
Hey! You were gonna keep us posted on how you're doing - how are you doing? Making some progress? Recovering good or have you run into any snags? How are you feeling through it all? Out with it if you will - I do wnat to know anyway...
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jsj42
Mar 26, 2006, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: Josh, Hey! You were gonna keep us posted on how you're doing - how are you doing? Making some progress? Recovering good or have you run into any snags? How are you feeling through it all? Out with it if you will - I do wnat to know anyway...
Sorry, my interest in rc.com and climbing in general ebbs and flows these days. I'm doing well and making some progress. My right foot is "all better;" I'm weighting it and walking on it -- I have lots of pain in my ankle and plantar fascia, but I expect that to eventually go away. My left foot is still not load bearing, but I'm allowed to stationary bike. It's nice to sweat. I should have my second surgery in mid-April and then, hopefully, be able to try walking without crutches. The right knee is a big problem -- lots of pain and stiffness. I don't know what's wrong with it but I can't really address that until I'm walking again. Those are the major injuries.
No real "snags." It's just slow going. But I've TR'd in the gym a few times now. I'm able to get up 10+'s without falling and I tried a couple of 12's -- but those are usually hangdog affairs.
My focus these days has been dealing with some other areas of concern -- ex girlfriends, money for hospital bills, whether I want to go to nursing school right away or wait a year... and not so much on climbing.
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healyje
Mar 26, 2006, 11:39 PM
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Josh,
Quite understandable - there is life beyond climbing as I'm sure you are finding at every turn. You're young, no need to rush, while you're recovering you might as well focus on the things you can control and work towards. School sounds like a good one if that's really a viable option. One step at a time. Good luck but do check in every now and then and let us know how you're doing...
Joseph
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jer
Apr 5, 2006, 7:44 PM
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I have been trying to find a way to help my friend Josh, beyond listening, prayer, and offering encouragement.
For those in the front range area, I will be doing a live painting(s?) at the Boulder Adventure Film Festival in an effort to auction them off to cover some of Josh's ever growing medical bills.
This is located at Boulder Theater. The event coincides with "Dirt Days".
I paint Monday night, the 17th.
http://www.boulderadventurefilm.com/
Hopefully some of you can come with deep pockets and help get our man back on his feet.
See you there, JoJa.
-jer
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jsj42
Apr 12, 2006, 2:36 AM
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Surgery round two on Tuesday. Woo hoo! The doc says that once the operation is done I can return to any and all of my normal activities. Will I be able to rehab enough in the next few weeks to make a summer roadtrip to Yosemite worthwhile... that is the question!
So, anyone want to do some easy climbing next week with an atrophied (but super psyched) weakling?
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healyje
Apr 12, 2006, 3:05 AM
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Josh,
That's great news!!! Keep posting on how it's going...
Joseph
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john_doe
Apr 12, 2006, 4:13 AM
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Talk about Deja-vu!
I took a 60 footer in May 2005 and broke both legs. I broke the Tib/Fib/Talus in my right leg (13 screws and 2 plates), and the let medial malious (2 screws). I spent 6 weeks in a wheel chair, 1 month on crutches, and 2 weeks with a cane.
That took me up to September, where I did 8 weeks of intensive physio therapy (4 times per week - 3 hours per session). Here they worked me to help me re-gain all of the range of motion that I had lost.
I totally understand how you are feeling and how you felt after your accident. I went through all of the same things. There was no "life flashing before my eyes" when the ledge broke, only the sound of the wind whistling in my ears, and then mega pain.
There is nothing like looking down and seeing your right heel where your right toes should be, and then knowing that you are 500 feet off the deck and you need to get lowered down to a small ledge to wait for help. Once there, having to rotate your mangled right leg back into proper alignment (ouch), and then waiting 4 hours for a rescue team and helicopter to come and pick you up.
When you are stuck in a hospital bed, wheel chair or whatever, you face all your demons. I swore off climbing, swore off doing anything that would put me through that much pain, and resolved my life to that of mediocracy. The problem was - once I had done that, I had no reason to want to get better.
Low and behold that by day 3 in the hospital, I was back reading climbing magazines and planning all the routes that I wanted to do. Now this is not to say that my want to climb stayed strong.... over the next few months, I owned and dis-owned climbing many times.... Only to realize that it is who I am.
Before this gets too long winded, I will end in saying that I am back climbing now. I climb 4 times a week at the local gym and have a season of ice climbing under my belt since the accident. BUT now I climb for different reasons... I climb because that is what I like to do. I don't push the grades as hard, or my limits. I am not afraid to back off a climb that is too hard because I may look weak, nor will I take unnecessary risks.
I just go out and have fun, I have nothing to prove, anyone who looks at the scars on my legs will see that I have already proven enough.
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treez
Apr 12, 2006, 4:31 AM
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Wow. I posted to this thread before my accident. I haven't been allowed to weight my right leg for a month and still have two more to go. I had no idea what it was like to not be able to walk.
Reading this again and seeing the fall thread on supertopo today have helped with my perspective. It is definately a struggle to have life as you know it ripped away and suddenly be unable to distract yourself from yourself.
Nothing makes my day more right now than hearing about someone who had worse injuries than I, but was able to climb again.
Thanks for the words about attitude. It is easier to say than do.
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jakedatc
Apr 12, 2006, 4:35 AM
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as someone in the sports medicine field that's some darn impressive recovery time. Some say a positive mental outlook helps things.. i'm pretty sure you prove it in your case.
knee diagnosis should be pretty easy with a MRI.. i'm guessing definitely meniscus issues.. ACL would be a good chance too with that kind of loading. luckily compared to your shattered foot bones the surgerys are pretty cake
That's awesome you're back climbing and getting strong again.
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swede
Apr 12, 2006, 6:37 AM
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Good luck to you all. Your experiences is a good reminder not to get cocky about my own knowledge about climbing.
I wouldn´t mind getting you out to the crag Josh, but I am on the other side of the world. If you ever get to this side - just send me a mail.
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nikki_keasey
Apr 13, 2006, 2:52 PM
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In reply to: My focus these days has been dealing with some other areas of concern -- ex girlfriends, money for hospital bills, whether I want to go to nursing school right away or wait a year... and not so much on climbing.
Nursing school sounds like a great idea, but have you considered doing some writing on the side? You've got talent, and an amazing story to tell. Your writing is very moving and strong. I feel you could go places with it. Rock on!
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keinangst
Apr 13, 2006, 3:09 PM
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Terrific story, should be mandatory reading for all climbers. Best of luck getting back into the game and props on recentering your priorities.
Also, I'd like to nominate you for Climbing Magazine's first annual Titanium Pin award, reserved for people who learn the downside of freesoloing the hard way. Somehow I don't think they'll be interested.
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jsj42
Apr 27, 2006, 8:01 PM
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Here's the latest...
Last week I had surgery #2 -- no more titanium in my foot (now it's in a jar on my dresser). The surgery went GREAT; the doctor is very satisfied with how things turned out and ordered me to promptly return to climbing, er, uh, cycling and elliptical. All week I've been in various amounts of pain ranging from :? to :cry: to :shock: but today I actually was able to cram my foot into a cycling shoe and go for a little ride.
The bad news? I saw the knee specialist and, well, let's just say it would be easier to list what's *not* wrong with my knee... surgery in another month. But for now, I seriously want to go climbing! I think late next week would be a good time frame for me... Seriously! Is there anyone who will put a rope up for me on Werk Supp or West Buttress?
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mhabicht
Apr 27, 2006, 8:42 PM
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I have not read all 5 pages but I just wanted to say that was a great story, you wrote it well and I am glad you are on the mend!
-michael
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claramie
Apr 27, 2006, 10:05 PM
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I didn't read the 5 pages of responses, but I'm pretty sure that we all agree:
- your story is amazing
- this is a great personal example of the tradeoffs for free-soloing
- we can't wait to have you back climbing again
Get well, stay safe and, once you are ready, climb hard.
Thanks for sharing,
Clayton
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jsj42
May 24, 2006, 7:31 PM
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I can't really think of a more fitting way to "wrap up" this thread then to tell a little story. It's been a month since my last operation, and I've been out climbing a few times since then. Fairly recently I revisited Tagger, the climb I fell on. I led it, in rather terrified fashion, placing gear every two feet. But I led it cleanly, and I was able remember the exact place where I slipped back in January. The experience was "weird" -- I can't really think of a better word to describe it, but more on that in a moment.
After the climb and some reflection, I think I've gained more insight into the exact cause of the fall: When I brought my partner up, he said, "Man, I would never solo that -- it's insecure." I realized that, when I made the decision to solo the climb, I never really thought about how insecure it was. Earlier that day I climbed Ruper, and I specifically deliberated over the third pitch (the "Ruper Traverse"), knowing that it would be the crux. It was one insecure move off of a good hold to a crappy hold to a good hold. I knew I could do it and I launched up the climb. Again, before committing to the crux, I spent a significant amount of time looking at the sequence and preparing myself mentally before climbing it.
I did not give Tagger the same attention. My route memory is pretty bad in general, and when I was standing at the base of it I really only thought about how I'd done the pitch many times before and had never fallen on it. I didn't really think about what the actual climbing was like -- it had been a couple years since I'd been on it.
Had I given Tagger it's due diligence, perhaps I would have remembered how insecure it is; maybe I wouldn't have climbed it; more likely I would have concentrated more on what I needed to do to get through it. I believe now that my lack of focus on the climb is what was behind the screw up. I've soloed High E, Magic Dragon, Sykes' Sickle, the North Chimney of Castleton... on all of these I was extremely focused -- Tagger, in retrospect, was rushed, and it bit me in the ass.
At the belay I felt "weird." My mind tried, futilely, to justify what had happened. Was this climb worth all the sleepless nights and pain-filled days of the last few months? Hell no. What climb would be then? The Naked Edge? Jules Verne? The Bachar-Yerian? The answer was no to all of them. No climb (no solo) was worth it. As these thoughts went through my mind... I felt weird. Cognitive dissonance. I was stupid -- a complete fool. I hated myself; I hated the climb. I wished I could reverse time.
My partner led the 10c second pitch and I followed cleanly. A few days ago I was able to redpoint 11a -- granted it was a Boulder Canyon clip-up, but psychologically it felt good. On a physical level any climbing involving my left foot is excruciating. If I can get through this hump and if the pain abates, I believe I'll return to my old obsessive climbing self. If not, keep your eyes on ebay for a great deal on a huge rack!
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swede
May 29, 2006, 9:39 AM
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Nice to hear that you are climbing again. And that you have a different opinion about soloing.
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healyje
Jun 1, 2006, 3:36 AM
Post #67 of 90
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Josh,
Thanks so much for that update and bout of reflection. I'm glad you got a chance to get back up it - many never would or could get back on a route after such an event. My hats off to you dude - your life will be all the richer and considered for having survived and confronted the whole experience. If I'm ever out that way I'll give you a shout - would love to share a rope with you...
Joseph
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dingus
Jun 1, 2006, 11:55 PM
Post #68 of 90
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Josh
Well done! Hey man, just make sure you don't reinjure yourself by 'leading too soon.'
Fucking your foot up all over again on some pissant meaningless sport fall would suck beyond measure.
DMT
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glyrocks
Jun 2, 2006, 12:36 AM
Post #69 of 90
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In reply to: f---ing your foot up all over again... would suck beyond measure.
yes, it will- even if it's a rad trad line. trust me, there is no hurry.
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cracklover
Jun 2, 2006, 2:52 AM
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Great to hear! Impressed by your honesty, and also your tenacity.
Cheers!
GO
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jsh
Jun 2, 2006, 3:35 AM
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Wow, Josh. I just happened across this thread tonight - what can I say besides, I wish you all the best.
Julie (and Scott, from the Gunks).
That goes for you too, Dingus old buddy!
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harmonrab
Jun 2, 2006, 4:07 AM
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wow,
that was an amazing story. I guess I won't be even dreaming of soloing on rock anymore. Maybe two moves off the deck and get back on safer ground.
I havent taken a trad fall yet but, it can be a very sobering experience indeed if u take a crazy whipper like that dude. I have taken some pendulum swings, done some airy traverses, some undercling hand traverses without any place to put in a pro about 30 feet off the deck, crazy whippers on sport. Now that I think about soloing, I will never do that or at least try my best to refrain myself from it no matter how easy the grade is.
I am glad I came across ur well written story. An experience like that probably would make me either cry for my momma or piss my pants (sorry if I am too honest) or do a lot of bad mouthing myself after the fall. I will try to stick to the old advice from now on : the leader must not fall (and no soloing) deal.
Thanks for the great story and a very sobering down to earth forum guys. I almost owe u my life.
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beny
Jul 21, 2006, 3:45 PM
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so another addition to josh's crazy story:
i recently ran into him on the diamond in colorado. what the heck? how did he get his wheelchair all the way up to the base of north chimneys? i'll never know. anyhoo, this hardman turned hard-gimp was limping his way up the start of ariana to get to the obelisk. onsighting .11a on the diamond after being a chair for 4 months!! not cool. josh, you gotta make it look even a little tough for you. you're making everyone else look bad. i don't have any excuses like ground falls, broken bones, etc to forgive my climbing ineptitude, so please cut us all some slack.
in all seriousness, it was absolutly amazing to see him up there. what a great surprise. i think everyone on the wall had a better time knowing he was back in the game. josh, you're a stud.
-ben
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healyje
Jul 22, 2006, 5:27 AM
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Josh. Dude! Sounds like you need to add a chapter to the saga if you were indeed making an outing on the Diamond! Spill.
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jsj42
Jul 24, 2006, 3:30 AM
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Ben is one of the most positive & encouraging people I know... Hmph... Why can't I find a woman like him?
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jwood
Jul 24, 2006, 4:09 AM
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Great story. Thanks.
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cjsimpso
Jul 24, 2006, 4:15 AM
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Wow, great story and great lesson. I'm tremendously sorry that you've had to deal with all of the pain and suffering, but it is good that you're sharing the experience and learning from it.
I also think its important to point out how lucky you are to have such a supportive group of friends here, especially healy. Good friends make all the difference.
Best of luck on the rest of your recovery, and climb safe.
Chris
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jsj42
Aug 5, 2006, 1:14 AM
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Well, the latest update is that I've been able to redpoint five 5.12's (both gear routes and bolts) in the past two weeks. Numerically, that means I'm climbing much harder than I ever did before the accident -- I've never ticked so many 12's in such a small time frame before. Strangely though, I know that I'm physically much weaker. There are still days that when I wake up in the morning I can't stand up on my feet, and I have yet to do calf-raises with my left leg.
My friend Luna once said that climbing is mental, and if you believe you can climb 5.13, 5.14, you can, and will. I didn't believe him at the time, but now I do.
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majid_sabet
Aug 5, 2006, 3:23 AM
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Well ,you edited your post 13 times and that is bad number to start with so if you could edit one more time to make 14 , I be happy.
You may call yourself lucky; I say your time was not up, your body is going to get fixed up but take care of your soul.
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jsj42
Aug 5, 2006, 3:54 AM
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...I'm also taking donations to buy a helmet. Got my eye on that Meteor III, Majid.
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htotsu
Aug 5, 2006, 3:34 PM
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I just read this entire thread, and I'm just amazed. The original story, told with sobriety and yet also with such grace and humor. The support and similar stories. The person who made efforts to help to raise money to help with the medical bills - it's just overwhelming.
J, I am so glad to see how you've progressed, and thank you for sharing this incredible story. I will add to those who think you should submit this somewhere, but I'll add that I could even see it as a diary sort of thing (aka including the subsequent recovery and return to climbing info). I can't imagine any climbing mag not wanting to print it, and to pay you for the privilege.
So based on prev. posts, you should have had knee surgery. I take it that went well? Have you decided about Nursing school? Wow, what a sympathetic caregiver you would make. Any patient who says, "you don't know what this pain feels like" is in for quite a story. All the best.
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healyje
Aug 9, 2006, 7:14 AM
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Josh,
Glad to hear the news. My partner and I hope to be out to Eldo in the fall and will give you a shout.
Joseph
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beny
Aug 16, 2006, 3:53 PM
Post #83 of 90
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just another josh sighting: he was seen two weekends ago on spearhead, climbing .12a in a light drizzle. how is this possible? i personally witnessed him from above, although he didn't see my wife or i at all. he didn't even get an early start. i don't think they even got on route til 10. but no prob for josh. you don't need an ankle that bends to climb hard routes or runout slabs (like he was doing on chiefshead the next day). who is this guy? and i think he probably has enought metal in his lower joints to set off a detector at the airport.
josh, i'm like a woman because i used to be a woman. yes, its true. how do you think my boobs got so big? its not roids. don't let the hairy, monkey body fool you. i am as much a woman as janet reno.
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crankyclimber
Aug 16, 2006, 4:42 PM
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My fiance likes to solo easy stuff 5.6 and under. I don't like it but it is his choice. I did tell him if he falls and is disabled or needs care for choosing to solo, he is going home to Wisconsin so his mom can take care of him. He recently started wearing a helmet for the first time in 14 years. Perhaps this story will have an impact on the soloing. Thank you so much for sharing your story. I wish you a full recovery.
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valeberga
Aug 16, 2006, 5:33 PM
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In reply to: Healyje, one way of dealing with those things is to read a book on statistics. You will realize that luck isn´t in the equation – probabilities are.
I would argue that failure while climbing in fact has nothing to do with probabilities, either. Probability is just a substitute for that which we do not know, but would like to predict. The fact is that this climber (with all due respect to the climber of course) didn't know exactly how well his footwork had to be to stay on the wall. But there was no probability or percent chance that his foot would blow; rather there was an apparently inadequate amount of care given to the footwork. So really the only thing left to be defined as "probability" is simply the climber's own probability of judging the move properly.
Oh yeah and great recovery man!
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foodlovur
Oct 31, 2006, 8:10 AM
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Hey there.
I tried PMing you (did I just actually write PMing? what is the world coming to?), about eight times, and kept getting error messages, so I thought I'd try this... ~LeeAnn
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coldclimb
Nov 2, 2006, 12:44 AM
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Wow, I'm surprised I've missed this for so long. Striking story man, thanks for wiriting it up and sharing.
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jsj42
Mar 19, 2007, 4:38 PM
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Well, two weeks ago I finally climbed my first 5.13. I kinda hoped I'd climb it before the one year anniversary of falling, but hey, one year and two months isn't that bad all things considered. Unfortunately the 13 wasn't Ruby's Cafe (which is still kicking my butt), but I think I'm still physically weaker than I was a year ago. I'm climbing a number grade harder though which begs the obvious question, how?
IMO it is that ever since I wrote that TR I started believing that I was capable of climbing at this level (not that I would eventually get there at some point in the future, but rather that I was capable right now).
If I fell because I wasn't strong enough, I concluded that I just wasn't recruiting enough muscle fibers on that particular go. If I couldn't do a move, it was because I hadn't figured it out yet. If I pumped off the top it was because I hadn't dialed the rest of the climb enough... But the primary thing, as I said earlier, is that somehow I started to believe I was capable. And, clearly, I am. It reminds me of something I read in Horst's "How to Climb 5.12." He said that anyone who is reasonably athletic should be able to climb 5.12. The rest of the book basically attempts to eliminate the various barriers to reaching that goal. I wonder though... perhaps anyone can climb 5.13. Or 5.14... Certainly if I can do it you can.
(This post was edited by jsj42 on Mar 19, 2007, 4:41 PM)
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djoseph
Mar 20, 2007, 3:55 PM
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Extraordinary... thanks for the update. And congrats on the accomplishments.
I'd say that your story is worthy of a mag write-up or a slideshow at Neptune or something.
Dan
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miademus
Mar 27, 2007, 2:54 PM
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Yesterday was the first time since i read your thread, no one could tell it better then the man himself.
Well you had a hard time then, it's amazing you climb that hard, so you broke your pleateu atleast.
There is so much more i like to tell you....but for now...bye
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