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solo1220
Feb 23, 2007, 12:32 AM
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In a effort to gauge my own progress, i was just curious how long you guys have been bouldering and what grade you're on.
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apneacomplex
Feb 23, 2007, 12:39 AM
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I climb a V3 and have been climbing almost 2 weeks.
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mturner
Feb 23, 2007, 1:08 AM
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apneacomplex wrote: I climb a V3 and have been climbing almost 2 weeks. Sounds like only in the gym...
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apneacomplex
Feb 23, 2007, 1:21 AM
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Yep.
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sesser125
Feb 23, 2007, 1:51 AM
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My advice is to not worry about grades to much, they may end up deterring you from trying something well within your means. Though if you must know it took me 2 years to reach V5 then a month after that I accidenty sent V7. I am also not much a boulderer anymore so I'm back to only V5. Oh yeah this was outdoors
(This post was edited by sesser125 on Feb 23, 2007, 1:52 AM)
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mushroomsamba
Feb 23, 2007, 2:17 AM
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I climb about V5-V6 outside inside just depends on the gym
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bizarrodrinker
Feb 23, 2007, 1:01 PM
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climb V4-6 in a few tries or less. Work V7/8. One piece of advice. Your bouldering career will last a lot longer if you progressively increase your climging grade. I have been bouldering the better part of 6 years and with the aid of a friend made certain not to progress too fast. It only burns out tendons. Plus there are SO many awesome lines at lower grades all over the world that unless you only boulder in one area all the time there is no reason to jump into the deep end so to speak. Go to Squamish and you can spend your whole summer climbing V4 and literally never get bored.
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munky
Feb 23, 2007, 1:39 PM
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I've been climbing 1 week and just climbed a v14. Seriously bud, who gives a flying shit! A grade is not reflective on how you are progressing in climbing. Climbing is not about competition with a winner and loser and a best! Its about great experiences. What grade you tick is a very small part of how you are progressing. What is a better guage is how many different types of styles of climbing you can become proficient in (crack, slab, roofs, vertical, slopers, crimps, nubbin pinching, bouldering, trad, sport, alpine, soloing, etc.) If you are a beginner just go out there and have fun.
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ebonezercabbage
Feb 23, 2007, 1:48 PM
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I have been climbing for almost 4 years now and i climb V-Jesus that was hard, but i do a lot of V-That was awesome's and V-You must be on crack to think I'm goin up there without a rope's. but thats just me.
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mturner
Feb 23, 2007, 4:21 PM
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sesser125 wrote: a month after that I accidenty sent V7. How do you accidently send a V7?! Shoot, I wish I could accidently send a V14.
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cchildre
Feb 23, 2007, 4:38 PM
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Oh yeah! 3-years now, and I am hoping to send another V2 soon, maybe at the Rock Rodeo tommorow will finally be the day, LMAO. Though, I have only bouldered at Hueco and Little Cottonwood and I suck at it, and don't care. It is nice to keep track of how you progress, but don't pin too much on getting up to that next grade. Master what your capable of now, and look for problems that challenge you at your current grade and you will reap untold benefits. Climb an off-width ;) L8
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cmacblue42
Feb 23, 2007, 5:45 PM
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I climb V4 consistently now within a couple tries. V5 takes a little longer and depends on the type of problem a little more. I have climbed a V6 and am hoping to get some more soon. I also try V7 and 8 if the route looks incredibly fun, but havent come close to doing one yet. I have been climbing 2 years. Another thing, my gym rates significantly harder than other gyms, so in most other gyms, add 1 grade to the above mentioned (i have confirmed this myself and also based on an overwhelming consensus of local climbers).
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roflcakes
Feb 23, 2007, 5:55 PM
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I am getting an F and I have been climbing for a few months now
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mchristie
Feb 23, 2007, 6:32 PM
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I've been bouldering for 14 years and I only climb V fun......you will realize one day that grades mean nothing, and finding problems that you enjoy or that inspire you is much more important. Matt
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zeke_sf
Feb 23, 2007, 7:14 PM
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Also, keep in mind that gym grades are notoriously idiosyncratic and nobody really gives a fuck how hard you climb on plastic.
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Davey
Feb 23, 2007, 7:24 PM
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I've been in the 12th grade for three years now just can't pass that English class
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difdclimber
Feb 25, 2007, 10:19 PM
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V2-V4 first day
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curt
Feb 25, 2007, 10:33 PM
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solo1220 wrote: In a effort to gauge my own progress, i was just curious how long you guys have been bouldering and what grade you're on. About 30 years--and I can be on V10. I seldom finish them anymore, though. Curt
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reno
Feb 26, 2007, 1:27 AM
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Is there an option for negative numbers? V -38 would be about right, I reckon.
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rocknice2
Feb 26, 2007, 2:30 AM
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solo1220 wrote: In a effort to gauge my own progress, i was just curious how long you guys have been bouldering and what grade you're on. Your doing great !!!!!! Don't worry about how hard, but rather how much fun your having. It's about exploring your limits not comparing them with other climbers. The best climber is the one who has the most fun.
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twaikker
Feb 28, 2007, 6:21 PM
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i have no idea how hard i pull, but the brusing on my slip might give me an idea... dont even try to figure out your grade level from the indoor scene...here is why certified dude comes, sets routes and probs at our pathetic wall. i onsight one of his "V4's" yet cant get one of his V2's....why is that? because they way he invisioned his V4 is V4, but i obviously figured out a better sequence and it was easy for me, so did i send V4? no i sent probably a V2 that was perfect to my style from a contrived sequence that he never saw coming. i flashed a V4 on this boulder in Questa NM, yet one boulder away i flailed on a V2, then on the other side of the same boulder got a V3 slab 2nd try....what does this all mean? absolutly nothing grades are so arbitrary, put it this way if your a noob, V0's to V1 will kick your ass, but you might find one that meets your strengths and slay a V3 and then flail again on a V0. i think im blessed in this aspect, me and my friends have a lot of boulders that have never seen FA's, so figuring out our own sequences is much more rewarding. most of them still dont have a FA, some have and feel harder than any of the graded problems i have sent. so what i tell you is this, forget the gym, and the indoor ratings, go outside and find some boulders, hopefully find an area that hasnt been touched and boulder the piss out of it. forget the grades, just pull on rock
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hugin
Mar 5, 2007, 1:42 AM
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To temper people's attitudes a little bit ... I tend to check ratings for an area before I go, but not as much while I'm there. I've gotten pretty good at recognizing if something is way over my head, or just a little challenging. The reason being that, if it's developed bouldering, I can get a sense of if I'm going to be in totally over my head. So, if there are lots of climbs within a couple of grades of my usual RP grade (bout a V3-), I'll hit it up. If, however, everything looks to be V-you're fucking kidding me, I don't bother because I'm going to be so overly challenged that I'll probably hurt myself before I have any fun.
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fearlessclimber
Mar 5, 2007, 4:01 AM
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Its different for every person depending on how much you climb, outside climbing definately helps though, get out there and get some experience, it will help tremendously. anyways im not to strong of a boulderer, more of a trad climber, but i can put up a V6 here and there and im pretty solid on V4 outside anywhere.
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esallen
Mar 27, 2007, 2:36 PM
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I have been climbing sport and trad for about 6 years, but just picked up bouldering a year and a half ago. I usually send V4 in a few tries and project V5/6. I actually hated bouldering until I really gave it a try last Winter (Dec 2005). Now I can't get enough! Eric
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Proto
Mar 27, 2007, 4:33 PM
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i have been bouldering all of my life....it is my natural talent. I will send all of you proj's, spit on the topout, and name it pathetic. I am the alpha and omega of bouldering. those of you who boulder for "fun" lack the skill to top out even my warm up. take some advice from me, and give it up, its not for you.
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miademus
Mar 29, 2007, 1:07 PM
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i've tsarted climbing a year ago but left it very soon, i've startteed climbing about 6month ago and don't train regular work on v6/7...
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poomasta
Mar 29, 2007, 2:16 PM
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munky wrote: I've been climbing 1 week and just climbed a v14. Seriously bud, who gives a flying shit! A grade is not reflective on how you are progressing in climbing. Climbing is not about competition with a winner and loser and a best! Its about great experiences. What grade you tick is a very small part of how you are progressing. What is a better guage is how many different types of styles of climbing you can become proficient in (crack, slab, roofs, vertical, slopers, crimps, nubbin pinching, bouldering, trad, sport, alpine, soloing, etc.) If you are a beginner just go out there and have fun. this crap ticks me off. a guy asks a simple question, wanting to gauge his own progress relative to others, and he gets a barrage of pissed off climbers who shred him for climbing for the wrong reasons. who are you to say why someone should pursue climbing? climb for your own reasons, but enough with the proselytizing. answer the question or go start ur own thread about how YOU have determined the only legitimate reason we all should climb. to the OP: been climbing about 3 years, just got into bouldering in the past year, and usually do problems in the v4/5 range.
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diophantus
Mar 29, 2007, 2:57 PM
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cmacblue42 wrote: ...Another thing, my gym rates significantly harder than other gyms, so in most other gyms, add 1 grade to the above mentioned (i have confirmed this myself and also based on an overwhelming consensus of local climbers). bwahahahaha, that's the funniest stuff I've read all morning.
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diophantus
Mar 29, 2007, 3:05 PM
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munky wrote: I've been climbing 1 week and just climbed a v14. Seriously bud, who gives a flying shit! Sponsors?
munky wrote: A grade is not reflective on how you are progressing in climbing. Hahahahaha
munky wrote: Climbing is not about competition with a winner and loser and a best! Except for climbing competitions.
munky wrote: Its about great experiences. What grade you tick is a very small part of how you are progressing. What is a better guage is how many different types of styles of climbing you can become proficient in (crack, slab, roofs, vertical, slopers, crimps, nubbin pinching, bouldering, trad, sport, alpine, soloing, etc.) So someone who only boulders but climbs v13 hasn't progressed very much?
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munky
Mar 29, 2007, 3:22 PM
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[So someone who only boulders but climbs v13 hasn't progressed very much?] No, I'm not saying that. But the point is for a beginner to not worry about how hard they climb but to sample and see other types of climbing. If you are bouldering V13 more than likely you've been exposed to other forms of climbing and have decided to specialize in bouldering.
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munky
Mar 29, 2007, 3:53 PM
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[this crap ticks me off. a guy asks a simple question, wanting to gauge his own progress relative to others, and he gets a barrage of pissed off climbers who shred him for climbing for the wrong reasons. who are you to say why someone should pursue climbing? climb for your own reasons, but enough with the proselytizing. answer the question or go start ur own thread about how YOU have determined the only legitimate reason we all should climb.] I'm sorry you got so ticked off. Can I get you a tissue to dry your crying eyes. Its called a forum and a thread for a reason: So each individual can respond according to how they see fit with regards to the question. I responded as I would have if someone had asked that to me in person. I hope the author of the question will realize from my response that there is much more to climbing than how hard you climb. And that the better climber or more advanced climber isn't necessarily the one who can climb a harder boulder problem or a harder sport route but who is generally well schooled at various styles and types of climbing.
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poomasta
Mar 29, 2007, 5:00 PM
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munky wrote: I'm sorry you got so ticked off. Can I get you a tissue to dry your crying eyes. Its called a forum and a thread for a reason: So each individual can respond according to how they see fit with regards to the question. I responded as I would have if someone had asked that to me in person. I hope the author of the question will realize from my response that there is much more to climbing than how hard you climb. And that the better climber or more advanced climber isn't necessarily the one who can climb a harder boulder problem or a harder sport route but who is generally well schooled at various styles and types of climbing. Yes it is a forum...where people ask questions and you apparently provide them with a snide reply that doesn't address their inquiry in the least. He didn't ask your opinion on why he should be climbing or ask for your silly definition of what an "advanced" climber is... (I think you meant "all-arounder" or "generalist" maybe). Anyway, you seem hung up on getting others to accept your reason for climbing so passionately that you use it as a response to questions not asked! That's, umm, weird man...
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alpinerock
Mar 29, 2007, 5:35 PM
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Okay i'll post up, unlike a lot of people here i like grades. Thats right I like numbers, they help me gauge my progress and help me justify my often times overwhelming ego. Having said that I've learned not to put too much emphasis on a particular grade, I've sent V9's that i swear are harder than any V13 I've been on (think duct tape and gerbils in LCC..) and i've sent V11's that i though were maybe V9 at best (think anything from Donner Summit). To answer your question I've sent V12 (outside, i've never had a gym pass, as a matter of fact i always send harder outside than indoors) and I've almost been climbing for four years now.
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chainsaw
Mar 29, 2007, 7:46 PM
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What V12 have you done Alpinerock?
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alpinerock
Mar 29, 2007, 8:12 PM
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I guess its not univerisally accepted as V12 but Pro-series in LCC, I know mike beck considers it a V11 but everyone else i've talked to calls it 12. When i asked dave graham about its grade he said new school V12 or old V11. I don't trust my judgment enough to say what its really graded.
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ninja_climber
Apr 4, 2007, 7:43 PM
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I've been climbing for 2 years and I boulder about V8/V9...unfortunately I still can't get past 5.12a/b...
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esqueleto
Apr 11, 2007, 5:12 PM
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been climbing for about 3 weeks or so and loving the crimps. dependant on the problem i can get v2-v3 pretty easily, but sloppers fuck me up and cracks just feel wierd. soon though it'll all feel right.
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uhoh
Apr 12, 2007, 12:00 PM
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I've been climbing and bouldering for only a few months. I can do V1, probably 1+. V2s seem outside my range but I'm sure I can get them with a little practice.
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alwaysclimbing07
Apr 12, 2007, 2:00 PM
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ive been climbing for a little over a year and a half now, and climb hard 5.12's, and i just got back from hueco a few days ago, and while i was there i sent king cobra(v6) in about 30 muinets, if that helps any. ive pulled harder indoors, but who hasn't.
(This post was edited by alwaysclimbing07 on Apr 12, 2007, 2:01 PM)
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fearlessclimber
Apr 13, 2007, 5:17 AM
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solid V6 baby, im workin on getting to 10s by the end of this summer. I sport much harder though
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gilles
Apr 19, 2007, 4:37 AM
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I started climbing 1 month ago, and I found a new route in some place where I can't tell you and chris sharma and david graham and i, sent a problem rated at V18.5, so says David. took me a couple tries but i made it. Who gives a shit! Blah blah blah
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trenchdigger
Apr 19, 2007, 4:55 AM
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I thought the scale topped out at Grade 7? I've been climbing a little over 4 years and attempted my first Grade 4 in January - the Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag. I guess it wasn't the brightest idea to try to do it car-to-car in a day in the middle of winter. Next time we'll cruise it... Recommended reading: Reinhold Messner's "The Seventh Grade" And no, it's not about his experiences in Junior High School. edit: Oh wait, how did I end up in the bouldering forum?
(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Apr 19, 2007, 4:56 AM)
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billgoat
Apr 20, 2007, 4:22 PM
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I'm still trying to figure out the grading of bouldering I do it and love it just as much as climbing and I'm aver. maybe above but whats the diff. between v4 n a v8 huh I do some pretty hard stuff w/ a few tries easy ones right away so how do you grade
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MONKEY5
Aug 18, 2007, 3:50 AM
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i climb like 1400s so like v-0 v-1 ive been bouldering about a week i guess in the gym.
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Vinny_A
Aug 18, 2007, 3:26 PM
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Ive been bouldering for about a week and I can get 450-500s at the gym so I guess thats about a V4-V5.... I think And I've never done anything above a 5.9 top roping
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quiteatingmysteak
Aug 18, 2007, 4:52 PM
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solo1220 wrote: In a effort to gauge my own progress, i was just curious how long you guys have been bouldering and what grade you're on. Progress is climbing is not a reward of numbers, its the reward of accomplishment and adventure. Many of the 'top' climbers today recount their most triumphant feats not as the ones that are the 'hardest' numerically, but what was the hardest to earn. There are 5.13 climbers out there that couldn't fight their way up a 5.10 veadawoo offwidth, v10 boulderers that couldn't follow an A2 pitch, and comp-killers who, after 3 years in the circuit, decide that 'climbing' as they see it is no longer rewarding. If you climb for numbers, something will always replace it. If you climb for the love of the experience, for the drive of pushing yourself, and the accomplishment of knowing that you did something that, a year ago, would seem impossible, than you have something that will last a lifetime.
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thomasribiere
Aug 18, 2007, 9:50 PM
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I've been climbing for 10 yrs and don't boulder harder than V2.
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spyder14
Aug 20, 2007, 3:03 AM
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ive been climbing for 2 years and i climb 5.9 sport, and i boulder at v2+
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mr8615
Aug 20, 2007, 12:48 PM
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I hear if you remove some ribs, you can suck your own... oh wait, what was the question?
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zealotnoob
Aug 20, 2007, 1:15 PM
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I started climbing a year ago and have been training as avidly as I can. In the gym I boulder ~V4 and am starting to get into the 5s...outside, my focus, I've been getting into the tens, trad, and I just completed a grade III 5.easy alpine route (mt conness, north ridge--the coolest thing I have ever done).
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bucknasty
Aug 22, 2007, 3:41 PM
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V3 pulling plastic, V2 outside. The kids that set in the local gym tend to sandbag routes though, well some of them... So we end up with window gradings (V2-4, 3-4, etc) depending on who you talk to. I've been working on 3's 4's & 5's getting the moves, climbing regularly since June. Don't worry too much about the grades, it's more about the feel and the moves, unless you're going to go to comps & stuff. Also 1 of the 3's I sent at the gym, a guy who does 5's & 6's like nothing can't even get off the start. Just go out, be safe & have fun!
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youradhere
Oct 15, 2007, 5:13 PM
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keep in mind that this is indoors..but at most gyms i go to i can climb v6. Ive been climbing for 3 months
(This post was edited by youradhere on Oct 15, 2007, 5:14 PM)
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BornGhost
Oct 15, 2007, 5:42 PM
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I've been climbing since (I think) June and on Saturday came close to finishing a V3. Mind you, there are V2s that I can't get and a V1 that took me 3 weeks before I could finally get it. It really is all about putting your mind to what you're doing. Numbers will scare you away, but sometimes the numbers don't really matter. Like that V3, for instance.
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hopperhopper
Oct 15, 2007, 8:23 PM
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i've been climbing for 6 weeks and i climb V2-V3 at my gym.
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nivlac
Oct 15, 2007, 8:54 PM
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ninja_climber wrote: I've been climbing for 2 years and I boulder about V8/V9...unfortunately I still can't get past 5.12a/b... What? Clearly you're not a true Ninja!
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Vinny_A
Oct 15, 2007, 9:36 PM
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Well its my second month climbing and my highs are v6+ (v4+/v5- consistently) and for routes 5.12 c/d
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PatMcGinn
Oct 15, 2007, 11:08 PM
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I'm climbing around V2-V3 range, but I've sent some V4-e's, it depends on the height of the climber, I'm about 5' 1'' and some V2's are very hard because 6' 1'' people are setting them. But I've only been climbing 6 months, and with regular gym practicing I've gotten from V2- to V3- in a few months training.
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MONKEY5
Oct 16, 2007, 12:54 AM
Post #59 of 93
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I'm climbing v2 v3 range and i've been climbing for about 4 months.
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drunkenhighball
Oct 24, 2007, 5:06 PM
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Who are these cats that can climb v4-v6 in a matter of weeks (or even months for that matter)? I've been climbing (almost exclusively bouldering) for almost two years and only just now beginning to crack v4. I don't often climb indoors but when I do i seem to have trouble pulling anything harder than v2. Am I just a f*cktard, or is everyone on rc.com just hardcore badasses except me?
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fearlessclimber
Oct 24, 2007, 9:04 PM
Post #61 of 93
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solid boulderer at V6 after a few tries, been climbing for 2 years. I like sport and trad much more, not much of a boulderer.
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PepsiTwist
Oct 25, 2007, 1:53 AM
Post #62 of 93
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drunkenhighball wrote: Who are these cats that can climb v4-v6 in a matter of weeks (or even months for that matter)? I've been climbing (almost exclusively bouldering) for almost two years and only just now beginning to crack v4. I don't often climb indoors but when I do i seem to have trouble pulling anything harder than v2. Am I just a f*cktard, or is everyone on rc.com just hardcore badasses except me? I'm guessing they are climbing at gyms with severely overgraded problems. Case in point, I've been climbing since the end of June and my onsight level is about 10c outdoors/11b indoors, my redpoint level is 12a both outdoors/indoors but my bouldering level is about V4, with a bit of work. I was climbing with a fellow the other day in the gym who redpoints about 11a indoors and he is talking about how earlier that day he was at another gym bouldering and sent 3 V5's and worked a V4 for a bit. Fast forward a couple days later and this fellow and I are back in the gym doing some bouldering and he is getting shut down on every V3 we try, and is sending V2 within 6-7 tries. I dont want to assume this guy was lying about those sends, cause I think he genuinely did send them. I question the legitimacy of their rating, however. If you're sending V4-6 within a couple months then you are straight up a freak of nature, or the problems are misgraded. It seems we have a lot of freaks in here. Just for the record, I know it may seem as if I fall into that category as well but I've been climbing 4-5 days a week since I started so I dont see my progression as being particularly impressive.
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pyrosis
Oct 25, 2007, 3:53 AM
Post #63 of 93
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Climb a B1 and I'll be impressed. (A what?)
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itrichs
Oct 25, 2007, 6:08 PM
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v7 1.5 year
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raymondjeffrey
Oct 25, 2007, 6:27 PM
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my grades have decreased due to my 'out of shapeness'. At my best I was super solid on 5.10a/b and redpointing 5.11a/b pretty consistently but now a 5.9 feels like a 5.13c/d. I'm so fat.
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paclimber12
Oct 25, 2007, 8:37 PM
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Ive been climbing for about 2 years and i guess i boulder in the v8 range
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theirishman
Oct 26, 2007, 3:11 AM
Post #67 of 93
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i have been climbing for 3 years, i climb in the v3-v4 range out side, i can onsight 5.10c on sport, most 5.9 on trad, matters where i am and all that jazz, i have met some one who climbed v6 in his first 5 months of climbing, he was a Dane and was a gymnast also, everyone else who have started climbing, even when in shape fall off v1's that ive seen
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rumneydude
Oct 26, 2007, 3:58 AM
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I've been climbing 15 years... I started climbing trad, then sport climbed for quite a while and I've probably been bouldering about 20 times now, I can usually flash V6 and I've done V9... which is consistent with my level on ropes. I concentrate on technique and climbing smoothly, for me that is a better measurement of my progress in climbing. There seem to be a lot of haters here...
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Vinny_A
Oct 27, 2007, 1:58 AM
Post #69 of 93
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PepsiTwist wrote: drunkenhighball wrote: Who are these cats that can climb v4-v6 in a matter of weeks (or even months for that matter)? I've been climbing (almost exclusively bouldering) for almost two years and only just now beginning to crack v4. I don't often climb indoors but when I do i seem to have trouble pulling anything harder than v2. Am I just a f*cktard, or is everyone on rc.com just hardcore badasses except me? I'm guessing they are climbing at gyms with severely overgraded problems. Case in point, I've been climbing since the end of June and my onsight level is about 10c outdoors/11b indoors, my redpoint level is 12a both outdoors/indoors but my bouldering level is about V4, with a bit of work. I was climbing with a fellow the other day in the gym who redpoints about 11a indoors and he is talking about how earlier that day he was at another gym bouldering and sent 3 V5's and worked a V4 for a bit. Fast forward a couple days later and this fellow and I are back in the gym doing some bouldering and he is getting shut down on every V3 we try, and is sending V2 within 6-7 tries. I dont want to assume this guy was lying about those sends, cause I think he genuinely did send them. I question the legitimacy of their rating, however. If you're sending V4-6 within a couple months then you are straight up a freak of nature, or the problems are misgraded. It seems we have a lot of freaks in here. Just for the record, I know it may seem as if I fall into that category as well but I've been climbing 4-5 days a week since I started so I dont see my progression as being particularly impressive. I assume some of this was directed twords me, yeah you make some good points about the problems being over rated (the 5.12 definately was I probably should have noted that). The bouldering problems are tough as hell, I dont think they are severely over rated maybe a little but for the most part they seem to be pretty on with the ratings. I'll be going to my first comp ever tomorrow with different route setters so well see what I am really capable of. I probably also have a decent physical advantage over most people, I'm 6'3 and have long arms. It lets me static moves that were meant to be big throws, example theres a v4 in my gym where the opening move is a dyno/throw (varies from person to person, at worst its a tiny dyno but anyway) on an undercling to a sloper that is big enough to match on. No doubt me being to static this move makes it much easier for me to do the problem. Also like you since I started Ive been going to the gym at least 2x a week and I never climb for less than 3 hours so that probably helps alot. I also climb with climbers that are a hell of alot better than me so I am constantly trying to keep up with them but I am always learning something. My theory is that it depends alot on body type and who you climb with/learn from. Yeah it also depends alot on how often you climb but I think it has alot to do with other things too. Of course I could just be spewing BS (which I probably am) but thats the way I see it. I also probably did a really poor job of putting this post together so sorry if it didnt make alot of sense. but uh yeah thats the way I see it
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PepsiTwist
Oct 29, 2007, 1:57 AM
Post #70 of 93
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Vinny_A wrote: PepsiTwist wrote: drunkenhighball wrote: Who are these cats that can climb v4-v6 in a matter of weeks (or even months for that matter)? I've been climbing (almost exclusively bouldering) for almost two years and only just now beginning to crack v4. I don't often climb indoors but when I do i seem to have trouble pulling anything harder than v2. Am I just a f*cktard, or is everyone on rc.com just hardcore badasses except me? I'm guessing they are climbing at gyms with severely overgraded problems. Case in point, I've been climbing since the end of June and my onsight level is about 10c outdoors/11b indoors, my redpoint level is 12a both outdoors/indoors but my bouldering level is about V4, with a bit of work. I was climbing with a fellow the other day in the gym who redpoints about 11a indoors and he is talking about how earlier that day he was at another gym bouldering and sent 3 V5's and worked a V4 for a bit. Fast forward a couple days later and this fellow and I are back in the gym doing some bouldering and he is getting shut down on every V3 we try, and is sending V2 within 6-7 tries. I dont want to assume this guy was lying about those sends, cause I think he genuinely did send them. I question the legitimacy of their rating, however. If you're sending V4-6 within a couple months then you are straight up a freak of nature, or the problems are misgraded. It seems we have a lot of freaks in here. Just for the record, I know it may seem as if I fall into that category as well but I've been climbing 4-5 days a week since I started so I dont see my progression as being particularly impressive. I assume some of this was directed twords me, yeah you make some good points about the problems being over rated (the 5.12 definately was I probably should have noted that). The bouldering problems are tough as hell, I dont think they are severely over rated maybe a little but for the most part they seem to be pretty on with the ratings. I'll be going to my first comp ever tomorrow with different route setters so well see what I am really capable of. I probably also have a decent physical advantage over most people, I'm 6'3 and have long arms. It lets me static moves that were meant to be big throws, example theres a v4 in my gym where the opening move is a dyno/throw (varies from person to person, at worst its a tiny dyno but anyway) on an undercling to a sloper that is big enough to match on. No doubt me being to static this move makes it much easier for me to do the problem. Also like you since I started Ive been going to the gym at least 2x a week and I never climb for less than 3 hours so that probably helps alot. I also climb with climbers that are a hell of alot better than me so I am constantly trying to keep up with them but I am always learning something. My theory is that it depends alot on body type and who you climb with/learn from. Yeah it also depends alot on how often you climb but I think it has alot to do with other things too. Of course I could just be spewing BS (which I probably am) but thats the way I see it. I also probably did a really poor job of putting this post together so sorry if it didnt make alot of sense. but uh yeah thats the way I see it Good luck at the comp man! Let us know how it goes.
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Vinny_A
Oct 29, 2007, 2:20 AM
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Thanks man, so I climbed all kinds of prolbems ranging from 265-565 at the comp and for my 5 best prolbems I got 2300. So I think that I over estimated my ability in my initial post. I think the comp was a pretty good measure of my climbing ability
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organic
Oct 29, 2007, 3:15 AM
Post #72 of 93
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Only 265-565? Crap, I climb 637 in my sandals... Funny thread but not really...
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PepsiTwist
Oct 29, 2007, 11:03 PM
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Vinny_A wrote: Thanks man, so I climbed all kinds of prolbems ranging from 265-565 at the comp and for my 5 best prolbems I got 2300. So I think that I over estimated my ability in my initial post. I think the comp was a pretty good measure of my climbing ability Good job man. What category were you in? How'd you place overall?
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Vinny_A
Oct 30, 2007, 10:27 PM
Post #74 of 93
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I was in Intermediate, I'm not sure how I placed overall I had to leave before all the scores were posted but I'll find that out soon.
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moeh
Nov 8, 2007, 10:18 PM
Post #75 of 93
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I can send 5.12c in a day and i climb for 5 years. This summer I started with bouldering and i can do V5/V6 in a few tries. Everything outdoor of course. Indoor rating doesnt count at all. Now im training like hell to send a V10 project next year!
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mattzilla
Nov 18, 2007, 6:38 AM
Post #77 of 93
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Ive been bouldering in the gym for about a month now, and i would rate my progress as such: I can do a: VB: 100% V0: 98% V1: 85% V2: 65% V3: 10% (a project, limit) V4: 0% of the time but i have led 5.10s in the outdoors
(This post was edited by mattzilla on Nov 18, 2007, 6:40 AM)
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MonkeyInTraining
Nov 19, 2007, 8:06 AM
Post #78 of 93
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Posts: 139
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Ok maybe I can help shed a little light on the peeps doing v4+ in a few weeks. I am 5'9" and in good shape, furthermore I am light of frame with strong hands that feel no pain from a few years of commercial fishing. My cardio system however, aint so good. I was troubled by V0's the first few days, then noticed people turning there hips and such, getting there bodys right up against the wall. Some also used toes and heals to take weight off of there arms when on underclings. I watched a bit and then found that easier V1's were suddenly in my range. After a month now I am sending most of the V1's and a few V2's that fit my style and the shape of my body. One V2+ (they do this + thing at my gym) I can do and a friend who does V3's cant even start. He is stronger but his body is to tall to wedge into a corner I use at the start. So its all relative. What do you do for a living? Ironworker? Ok I would expect V5's from you. Help Desk? Ok your job aint helping, so you have to get stronger at the gym and its gonna take a while... To all the attitude, wow I didn't imagine climbers could be so bitchy. I am guessing its mostly because the question touched a few egos. I find I don't care if others are super into numbers or not as I am just trying to not get hurt. 4 broken arms, 2 legs, 3 ribs, a back, ankles and wrists more then I can count. I have learned to stop trying to be better then I am just because someone else is (the hard way). Just be chill, use the numbers if you want. If you dont like it when others do you might want to question why you dont like it, rather then why they do it. The answer might surprise you.
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PepsiTwist
Nov 21, 2007, 5:03 AM
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Having strong hands is no doubt a plus, but it doesnt account for people hopping off the couch and doing V4-V6 within a few weeks. You can be naturally strong and power through V3 and lower no sweat. At a certain point, however, your technique starts playing a bigger and bigger role. If you are just rolling off the couch and sending V4-V6 on pure grip strength, then that would lead me to believe you could send atleast 3 grades harder with proper technique, meaning physically you have the same properties as a V7-V9 climber. I'm sorry, but I'm just not buying it. I'm more likely to buy the reverse of the argument. These people are a mix of mutant and have a very intuitive feel for moving on rock. I still have my doubts, however. Numbers are fun and I enjoy discussing them. It doesnt bother me one way or the other how hard somebody else is climbing, it wont effect my climbing either way. I just find it interesting that there are so many mutants crushing stout grades within such a short period of time on here while during I've come across none in my actual climbing experience. Doesnt mean they arent out there, but they are a rarer breed than reading through this thread would lead you to believe.
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drunkenhighball
Nov 21, 2007, 10:10 PM
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Indeed.... Although, a the gym the other day I finally got a haeavy dose of the "subjectivity" surrounding grades. I saw some cats working a dyno that I would have put around v4 (though I didn't try it because I thought I might hurt myself). These dudes were FLYING from one jug to the other. I'd say it was 3-4 vertical feet and 6-7 horizontal feet, but the holds were monsterous jugs (so were the feet for that matter). It was quite impressive, but I wonder if they would be able to climb other v4s with bad feet and small crimps. I didn't see them climb anything else, though I could have just not noticed.
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MonkeyInTraining
Nov 27, 2007, 9:25 PM
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I met a girl at my local gym that has been climbing one week as of today. She does V3-4 already... I think it helps that she is an acrobat for the Cirque Du Soleil! I would have thought she had been climbing for years with her level of fitness, she looked like a climber for sure with very good style and control. I would guess she will be on V6-7 in another week or two. Just another example of jobs that make for better climbers.
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wax
Nov 27, 2007, 9:53 PM
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my suggestion? get her phone number.
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cracklover
Nov 27, 2007, 9:53 PM
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Nine years, V3. I'm guessing the reason why you're seeing such high numbers is because this is the internet. Want to know what real people climb? Ask them. It's not like climbers are hard to find. GO
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CaptainPolution
Dec 11, 2007, 2:14 AM
Post #84 of 93
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i can rock 4's and get on some 5's. been climbing since 05 with an almost year long break due to injury. grades dont matter, it's all about the moves.
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worldsbestclimber
Dec 11, 2007, 2:29 AM
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u guys r all punters as far as im concerned. Ive been climbing 3 years and send V11s. I guess been a worthless climber must suck.
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wax
Dec 11, 2007, 4:45 PM
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CaptainPolution wrote: i can rock 4's and get on some 5's. been climbing since 05 with an almost year long break due to injury. grades dont matter, it's all about the moves. i agree... it all depends on the type of problems you enjoy. |
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curt
Dec 14, 2007, 4:12 AM
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cracklover wrote: Nine years, V3. I'm guessing the reason why you're seeing such high numbers is because this is the internet. Want to know what real people climb? Ask them... Or better yet, actually go bouldering with them. That will separate the internet BS from reality in a hurry. Curt
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jacksdefeat
Jan 7, 2008, 9:16 PM
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i've been climbing since late July, so, about 5-6'ish months now and i'm just starting to send V1-V2, and working 5.9-5.10 sport. most of it is my reach (i'm 6'1") and i'm a bigger guy so i have more power for some moves (of course, on the other hand, my body is a bitch to haul around on overhangs and crimpers). but, this is also mostly plastic, so, it's not really that solid for rating. best outside was a V0 back in Sept., but then it got cold here and i was sequestered to my plastic. ratings low or no, i still have a damn good time, plastic or rock. i prefer rock, but climbing in indiana, you learn to climb what you have available.
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Stronglikeboulders
Jan 15, 2008, 2:45 AM
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To all you grade naysayers, i agree that numbers aren't everything but come on: Just because Michael Jordan loves to PLAY basketball doesn't mean he can't keep score.
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Archie2
Jan 15, 2008, 10:55 PM
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What was the hardest transition from one grade to the next for anyone? I joined a gym in early November having never climbed before and could only do up to v1's until about a week ago when I did a few v2's and then yesterday did my first v3. Is it just hard getting past the basics? Once you started progressing is it steady growth? Of course it could have just been an easier v3.
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mturner
Jan 16, 2008, 1:20 AM
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Archie2 wrote: What was the hardest transition from one grade to the next for anyone? I joined a gym in early November having never climbed before and could only do up to v1's until about a week ago when I did a few v2's and then yesterday did my first v3. Is it just hard getting past the basics? Once you started progressing is it steady growth? Of course it could have just been an easier v3. It's my opinion that the transitions get harder as the grades get higher, but that's just been my experience.
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