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Do you think female climbers are as good as males?
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Poll: Do you think female climbers are as good as males?
Yes 88 / 65%
No 48 / 35%
136 total votes
 

suzie_cuzie


Mar 21, 2007, 5:31 AM
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Do you think female climbers are as good as males?
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I saw something a while back about male climbers being inherently better at climbing than females because of the whole muscle to mass ratio. Then, the other day, I heard a couple of guys (both of whom seemed to be pretty good climbers) talking at the gym about how even top female climbers never reach the same level as top male climbers. Is this actually true?


miavzero


Mar 21, 2007, 5:39 AM
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Yes it is.
This also reminds me of a study where scientists found that female internet trolls never reach the same level as their bone-headed teenage male counterparts.


suzie_cuzie


Mar 21, 2007, 5:49 AM
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Re: [miavzero] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Um...witty. But maybe try and save some of those brilliant lines for the other random people on the internet you need to insult.


joshy8200


Mar 21, 2007, 5:52 AM
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Re: [miavzero] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Women had an argument until October 31, 2005 when Tommy Caldwell freed the Nose and Freerider in the same day. Thank you Tommy. I no longer have to give the token, "Well there was this one feat that no male climber has ever accomplished..."

Women and men are different. A woman will never be faster, stronger, blah blah blah...than the fastest, strongest, blah blah blah man.


miavzero


Mar 21, 2007, 5:58 AM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Judging by your mood, you should either:
1. be careful that you clip the proper of your two cords into your pro.
or
2. Keep training hard, your higher than average levels of testosterone will allow you to become stronger than most men (see your recent posts in the Ladies Room).
or
3. lighten up, and get used to dealing with jackasses on the internet!


(This post was edited by miavzero on Mar 21, 2007, 6:03 AM)


anykineclimb


Mar 21, 2007, 6:06 AM
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I know one thing for sure.

There will ALWAYS be a woman climbing stonger than me.

does it matter?
Do I care??


joshy8200


Mar 21, 2007, 6:14 AM
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anykineclimb wrote:
There will ALWAYS be a woman climbing stonger than me.

does it matter?
Do I care??

This is all well and good. And of course it doesn't matter. But that isn't the question that was asked.

When someone asks if females are as good as males in climbing...I figure that means you have to look at the best of the best. And when you do this the best male climbers are better than the best female climbers (especially now thanks to Tommy Caldwell).


petsfed


Mar 21, 2007, 6:28 AM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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There are about a billion things that are different between men and women. But the only one you should really bother to ask, considering the performance of Josune Bereziartu, is why more women don't climb at a high level. And the answer, so far as I can tell, is that fewer women climb simply to out-climb others. And it is that competitive spirit, good or bad, that has driven the grades to where they are now.


majid_sabet


Mar 21, 2007, 8:27 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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One of my personal climbing master is a lady, after watching more 1000s of climbers in the every part of the world, IMO I would rank her # 1 in the world for been the best face and crack climber and also a good teacher.

I have also seen other good male climbers and female climbers and I have to add that most male climbers have stronger upper body and power to pull however, most female climbers are better in climbing formations and body movement positioning their hand and feet in great detail . Female climbers are also better in observation and very detail oriented in finding 3D holds (holds that are almost not in existence to an average eye).

Finally, If god was able to combine the power of a male climber and the climbing formation of a female climber in one body, there would not be any rocks that could not be climbed.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Mar 21, 2007, 8:29 AM)


ninja_climber


Mar 21, 2007, 9:01 AM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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When I first started climbing my chick friends immediately climbed better than me. They had better technique than me, and could twist and flag there way out of most things.
However, at the later grades they fell back, because they didn't have the required strength.


ebonezercabbage


Mar 21, 2007, 11:20 AM
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Actually,

My teacher always said women are naturally better and more suited for climbing.

When i asked why, he responded:

"Because they know they dont have massive upper body strength and are perfectly fine with that, hence they train themselves to use their legs for everything and concentrate on footwork right away. We as men are at a disadvantage from the start because we all have this feeling in the back of our minds that we could lift a buick if we had to and we try to show off by pulling thru every move. Plus women are lighter and more flexable and tend to get more attention than men when it comes to training. but that is attributed mostly to how they look in a harness 2 feet above your head."


I tend to agree.


piton


Mar 21, 2007, 12:55 PM
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yes if not better


bizarrodrinker


Mar 21, 2007, 1:11 PM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Males remove shirts when climbing=not fun to climb with.

It screams I climb for the image, the body, and I like to show myself off. Now I could be saying this because I am a scrawny white boy, or because I have a genuine dislike for most people.

I'll let you decide.

That said in my experience, women tend to be more humble, and low key. I respect that a lot. Except the ones thawt aren't. They are obnoxiously annoying.

Oh, you meant STONGER???? Who the hell cares?


Partner camhead


Mar 21, 2007, 1:17 PM
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Re: [anykineclimb] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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anykineclimb wrote:
I know one thing for sure.

There will ALWAYS be a woman climbing stonger than me.

does it matter?
Do I care??

evidently, it does matter, and you do care; otherwise you wouldn't have responded to this thread. durrrrrr.


Partner jammer


Mar 21, 2007, 1:28 PM
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The battle is fought in the head while climbing. The hell with this male vs female shit! We are all individuals, regardless of gender.


Partner j_ung


Mar 21, 2007, 1:42 PM
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Re: [jammer] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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I absolutely agree, Jammer.


saxfiend


Mar 21, 2007, 1:51 PM
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Re: [jammer] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Been watching "Life of Brian," Alan? Heh heh.

jammer wrote:
We are all individuals, regardless of gender.

I'm not!

JL


crotch


Mar 21, 2007, 2:30 PM
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Re: [saxfiend] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Not sure whether woman are better than men, but this gal climbs 5.13 off the couch.




(This post was edited by crotch on Mar 21, 2007, 2:35 PM)


dingus


Mar 21, 2007, 2:36 PM
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Someday a top male climber will 'change teams.' (I could name a few likely candidates, haha)

That'll be *interesting.*

DMT


rockjock160


Mar 21, 2007, 2:36 PM
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It has always been my experience that woman are actually better at the inherent skills of climbing, meaning that they naturally seem to know the more technical movements and techniques, whereas the men are better at memorizing sequences, and of course start off with more muscle mass. Question comes down to what makes you better -- Grunting through a tough grade, or finessing a problem with moves rather than muscle. I believe it is the mix of both these traits that make a climber great.


dingus


Mar 21, 2007, 2:40 PM
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I think female climbers are better than males, pretty much across the board.

DMT


Partner jammer


Mar 21, 2007, 2:45 PM
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saxfiend wrote:
Been watching "Life of Brian," Alan? Heh heh.
Never heard of it.

saxfiend wrote:
jammer wrote:
We are all individuals, regardless of gender.

I'm not!

JL

Care to elaborate?


Partner jammer


Mar 21, 2007, 2:52 PM
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crotch wrote:
Not sure whether woman are better than men, but this gal climbs 5.13 off the couch.




Your neighbor?


lena_chita
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Mar 21, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Never noticed a female monkey not climbing as well as a male, have you?
- Don Whillans on being asked it if was possible for a woman to be a better rock climber than a man.


wonderwoman


Mar 21, 2007, 3:03 PM
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Are male climbers as good as female climbers? Tongue


amikros


Mar 21, 2007, 3:50 PM
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i've actually heard that females are inherently better...flexibility, balance, small fingers etc...males are only better when climbing harder, advanced routes come into play and muscle mass is super important. apparently. i have no experience with climbing harder, advanced routes.
if guys are ever better, it's may be because they're obsessed with one-upping eachother...


dan2see


Mar 21, 2007, 4:00 PM
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jammer wrote:
crotch wrote:
Not sure whether woman are better than men, but this gal climbs 5.13 off the couch.
[image]...[/image]
Your neighbor?

Could be a self-portrait.
Think how much fun a route would be with this sweetie belaying you? Or leading you?


dan2see


Mar 21, 2007, 4:03 PM
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suzie_cuzie wrote:
Do you think female climbers are as good as males?

Where I came from, we called them "Women" and "Men".


stevej


Mar 21, 2007, 4:13 PM
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crotch wrote:
Not sure whether woman are better than men, but this gal climbs 5.13 off the couch.

[image]http://www.photographyblog.com/gallery/data/3058/1233drag_queen_at_mr_l_with_cig.jpg[/image]

Hotness. I'd hit it.


mowz


Mar 21, 2007, 4:30 PM
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miavzero wrote:
Judging by your mood, you should either:
1. be careful that you clip the proper of your two cords into your pro.
or
2. Keep training hard, your higher than average levels of testosterone will allow you to become stronger than most men (see your recent posts in the Ladies Room).
or
3. lighten up, and get used to dealing with jackasses on the internet!

Why are YOU trolling in the Ladies' Forum?


dan2see


Mar 21, 2007, 4:32 PM
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My comment here does not really answer the OP, but I think it's worth posting:

I notice that about 1/3 of climbers are women, in general. So I wonder what are the reasons for this?

1. Testosterone. Also called the "Rooster Factor". Nothing to do with ability ("...are as good as...") but it motivates the guys.
2. The "upper body" thing, also called the "Gorilla Factor". This works for me. It feels good simply to reach up and grab a hold, and it feels better when I'm balanced from my hand-hold.
3. Adventure and challenge: I don't think there's any difference, as far as level of motivation, but maybe men prefer physical challenges, but women are broader or more rounded.
4. I think some girls climb because their boy-friends do, but guys don't follow their girl-friends to the cliffs.

If you measure and record "climbing ability" in the male and female populations, you'd probably find the same "bell curve" in each. (see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/.../Normal_distribution ). In other words, both genders are AS GOOD AS the other.

Finally we get back to the OP <phew>:

Maybe the best climbers are men, simply because most climbers are men?


redpoint73


Mar 21, 2007, 4:38 PM
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amikros wrote:
i've actually heard that females are inherently better...flexibility, balance, small fingers etc...males are only better when climbing harder, advanced routes come into play and muscle mass is super important. apparently. i have no experience with climbing harder, advanced routes.

Obviously you haven't climbed harder routes, b/c they require flexibility, balance, technique just as much as strength. And muscle mass is of zero importance in hard climbing, its actually a hindrance. Big muscles just weigh you down. All the strength you need for climbing, you get by climbing, and it often does not build much mass. Look at Dave Graham. The guy is a stick, and one of the best climbers in the world.


deadhorse


Mar 21, 2007, 4:57 PM
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I don't think enough women are putting up routes. I think the increased flexibility has got to one up them in certain situations, and a route that a woman put up would be the one to take advantage of that.
I love watching women climb, because even if they don't push the grades as hard, they make it look so good. I've seen more fluid, graceful woman climbers then men.


miavzero


Mar 21, 2007, 5:05 PM
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mowz wrote:
miavzero wrote:
Judging by your mood, you should either:
1. be careful that you clip the proper of your two cords into your pro.
or
2. Keep training hard, your higher than average levels of testosterone will allow you to become stronger than most men (see your recent posts in the Ladies Room).
or
3. lighten up, and get used to dealing with jackasses on the internet!

Why are YOU trolling in the Ladies' Forum?
I was dragged kicking and screaming into the ladies room when I delved into the post history of the op. I was sure that she was a fourteen year old boy who was trolling on the internet when he should have been working on his algebra homework.


redpoint73


Mar 21, 2007, 5:10 PM
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miavzero wrote:
I was dragged kicking and screaming into the ladies room

That happens to me all the time.


wonderwoman


Mar 21, 2007, 5:23 PM
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Re: [dan2see] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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dan2see wrote:
Maybe the best climbers are men, simply because most climbers are men?

That is a good point.

I also wonder why there always seems to be the need to compare one climber to another, or even ourselves to other people. It just seems unhealthy, but everyone apparently does it.


sidepull


Mar 21, 2007, 5:50 PM
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This is a pretty simple empirical question depending on you define good. If good simply equals hard grades (which it doesn't, but let's play with that assumption since it's one of the few measuring sticks available) then you just need to compare whether or not there is a difference in grades between males and females.

If you really want to get an indication then you could randomly select 100 male and female climbers from 8a and compare either their average grade, overall score, or hardest send and see if you end up rejecting the null hypothesis. Just because both samples will be bell shaped does not mean that the mean of each sample is the same (or that the standard deviations are the same).

Just eye-balling the top ten female and male climbers from 8a seems to indicate that there's a pretty striking difference. Josune seems like more of an outlier.


dingus


Mar 21, 2007, 5:56 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
I also wonder why there always seems to be the need to compare one climber to another, or even ourselves to other people.

That's one of the biggest differences. Its not that women don't compare and contrast themselves to their peers, its that they do it differently.

Basic male beahvior is quite simple... a lot of it is as simple as who pisses highest on the measuring post.

Elaborate mating dances if you will. Rams butting heads, dogs sniffing each other's shit to see who stinks the most. Its just the way things are.

DMT

DMT


dan2see


Mar 21, 2007, 5:57 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
dan2see wrote:
Maybe the best climbers are men, simply because most climbers are men?
That is a good point.

I also wonder why there always seems to be the need to compare one climber to another, or even ourselves to other people. It just seems unhealthy, but everyone apparently does it.

Well that is another good point!

What about: grading rock surfaces, grading gear, grading bodies, grading areas, grading walk-offs, grading rappells, grading posts, grading pix ...

I mean, who needs it?


crimpandgo


Mar 21, 2007, 6:13 PM
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mowz wrote:
miavzero wrote:
Judging by your mood, you should either:
1. be careful that you clip the proper of your two cords into your pro.
or
2. Keep training hard, your higher than average levels of testosterone will allow you to become stronger than most men (see your recent posts in the Ladies Room).
or
3. lighten up, and get used to dealing with jackasses on the internet!

Why are YOU trolling in the Ladies' Forum?

and more importantly,,,,

why do you think people need to get used to dealing with internet jackasses????Mad


themadmilkman


Mar 21, 2007, 6:49 PM
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Re: [bizarrodrinker] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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bizarrodrinker wrote:
Males remove shirts when climbing=not fun to climb with.

It screams I climb for the image, the body, and I like to show myself off. Now I could be saying this because I am a scrawny white boy, or because I have a genuine dislike for most people.

I'll let you decide.

That said in my experience, women tend to be more humble, and low key. I respect that a lot. Except the ones thawt aren't. They are obnoxiously annoying.

Oh, you meant STONGER???? Who the hell cares?

Um, who cares if a guy takes his shirt off? I'm overweight, pasty and white, and hairy. I still take my shirt off to climb, because it makes me feel free.

Just because YOU think it happens for a reason doesn't mean it happens for that reason.


Partner rgold


Mar 21, 2007, 7:46 PM
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I think climbing is unique in the spectrum of intense physical activities in that there is essentially no difference in the performances of men and women. Muscle mass notwithstanding, there is little difference in strength to weight ratio either. If we're going to cite Caldwell as a measure (and it is exceptionally unclear what exactly is being measured), then an analogous claim would have Lynne Hill the top climber in the world for what---15 years?

In any case, I don't know if looking at the so-called elite athletes is a good test in climbing. A lot seems to depend on the level of sponsorship people get and how well they are able to publicize their accomplishments.

Once you are a step down from the elite level, whatever that is, it becomes almost impossible to argue, on any grounds, that there are real gender differences in climbing performance.


suzie_cuzie


Mar 21, 2007, 8:13 PM
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sidepull wrote:
This is a pretty simple empirical question depending on you define good. If good simply equals hard grades (which it doesn't, but let's play with that assumption since it's one of the few measuring sticks available)

Forgive my ignorance, but being pretty much a total newbie, what else defines good? I would've thought the harder the routes you can climb, the better you are...


deschamps1000


Mar 21, 2007, 8:24 PM
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suzie_cuzie wrote:
Forgive my ignorance, but being pretty much a total newbie, what else defines good? I would've thought the harder the routes you can climb, the better you are...

There are many ways to measure climbing skill. A 5.14 climber may not have the skills to move fast in the mountains, thus being a bad alpine climber.
A 5.12 crack climber may not have the technique to climb 5.11 sport climbs.
A 5.13 sport climber may not know how to quickly place gear thus making them a bad trad leader.
A V10 boulderer may have no lead head and thus be a bad aid climber.
There are so many different disciplines of climbing you can't use a "highest grade = best climber" mentality.


Partner cracklover


Mar 21, 2007, 8:34 PM
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Re: [dan2see] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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dan2see wrote:
My comment here does not really answer the OP, but I think it's worth posting:

I notice that about 1/3 of climbers are women, in general. So I wonder what are the reasons for this?

1. Testosterone. Also called the "Rooster Factor". Nothing to do with ability ("...are as good as...") but it motivates the guys.
2. The "upper body" thing, also called the "Gorilla Factor". This works for me. It feels good simply to reach up and grab a hold, and it feels better when I'm balanced from my hand-hold.
3. Adventure and challenge: I don't think there's any difference, as far as level of motivation, but maybe men prefer physical challenges, but women are broader or more rounded.
4. I think some girls climb because their boy-friends do, but guys don't follow their girl-friends to the cliffs.

If you measure and record "climbing ability" in the male and female populations, you'd probably find the same "bell curve" in each. (see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/.../Normal_distribution ). In other words, both genders are AS GOOD AS the other.

Finally we get back to the OP <phew>:

Maybe the best climbers are men, simply because most climbers are men?

Excellent post. I've made the same point before, but have hesitated to give voice to *why* there are fewer female climbers. But whatever the reason, it is a simple statistical inevitablility that the best Women should be not quite as good as the best Men (most of the time), if they are inherently equal as climbers, but there are fewer Women.

GO


suzie_cuzie


Mar 21, 2007, 8:34 PM
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crimpandgo wrote:
mowz wrote:
miavzero wrote:
Judging by your mood, you should either:
1. be careful that you clip the proper of your two cords into your pro.
or
2. Keep training hard, your higher than average levels of testosterone will allow you to become stronger than most men (see your recent posts in the Ladies Room).
or
3. lighten up, and get used to dealing with jackasses on the internet!

Why are YOU trolling in the Ladies' Forum?

and more importantly,,,,

why do you think people need to get used to dealing with internet jackasses????Mad

See, that's exactly my point. I don't care if a post is the stupidest bloody thing you've ever seen; there's no need to be a bitch.

Mia, this is last thing I'm going to say on this: yes, my posts in the ladies forum were stupid. I'd just been divorced and wasn't ready to date, but the body is often out of sync with the mind, so I had sex on my mind all the damn time. I can admit the posts were stupid. And you know what? I don't care. There's no reason to descend on someone like a pack of bitchy pirhanas just because you can do it behind the safety of your computer screen. You want annoying? THAT's annoying.

I don't know why it gives people like you pleasure to be rude to strangers over the internet - maybe you're the kind of people who can never speak your mind in real life, so you go to the opposite extreme on the net, I don't know. You should give this some thought though the next time you're about to say something bitchy to someone who's made a post you deem stupid: you don't know if someone they love has just died and they're trying to take their mind off it by making silly posts, or they've gotten divorced, or lost their job, or any other hardship you can imagine. You don't know, so why say something that they could be taking much harder than you intended?

Honestly, take the advice or leave it. You can just say whatever you want. I'm done responding to you.


sidepull


Mar 21, 2007, 8:53 PM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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suzie_cuzie wrote:
sidepull wrote:
This is a pretty simple empirical question depending on you define good. If good simply equals hard grades (which it doesn't, but let's play with that assumption since it's one of the few measuring sticks available)

Forgive my ignorance, but being pretty much a total newbie, what else defines good? I would've thought the harder the routes you can climb, the better you are...

Deschamps provides a good answer. To compound the difficulty in measuring "good" using only ratings you need to account for differences in ratings between areas, differences in style, etc. At the end of the day ratings are subjective, that doesn't mean ratings are bad or total crap, it just means that there's a bit (or a lot) of variance. In other words, one 5.14 is not the same as another 5.14.

That said, once you claim ratings as your definition of good then the answer to your original question is simply no. Women can be as good as male climbers (e.g. Josune & Lynn), but they generally are not. I don't want this to lead to a pissing match - I'd love for someone to run the statistics and prove me wrong.

But take Lisa Rands for example. She's often considered to be on the cutting edge of women's bouldering but she has said (to paraphrase) "once you get to the harder grades the holds get smaller and farther apart and there just isn't much technique to account for the differences in size between men and women." So in a sense, she's admitting that biological differences (on average men are taller and thus have a wider wingspan than women) create a hindrance between women and men. The alternative argument is to take these differences into account and therefore the v11 that Sharma climbs is, for Lisa a v15. I don't have a problem with that argument either.


miavzero


Mar 21, 2007, 9:06 PM
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suzie_cuzie wrote:
crimpandgo wrote:
mowz wrote:
miavzero wrote:
Judging by your mood, you should either:
1. be careful that you clip the proper of your two cords into your pro.
or
2. Keep training hard, your higher than average levels of testosterone will allow you to become stronger than most men (see your recent posts in the Ladies Room).
or
3. lighten up, and get used to dealing with jackasses on the internet!

Why are YOU trolling in the Ladies' Forum?

and more importantly,,,,

why do you think people need to get used to dealing with internet jackasses????Mad

See, that's exactly my point. I don't care if a post is the stupidest bloody thing you've ever seen; there's no need to be a bitch.

Mia, this is last thing I'm going to say on this: yes, my posts in the ladies forum were stupid. I'd just been divorced and wasn't ready to date, but the body is often out of sync with the mind, so I had sex on my mind all the damn time. I can admit the posts were stupid. And you know what? I don't care. There's no reason to descend on someone like a pack of bitchy pirhanas just because you can do it behind the safety of your computer screen. You want annoying? THAT's annoying.

I don't know why it gives people like you pleasure to be rude to strangers over the internet - maybe you're the kind of people who can never speak your mind in real life, so you go to the opposite extreme on the net, I don't know. You should give this some thought though the next time you're about to say something bitchy to someone who's made a post you deem stupid: you don't know if someone they love has just died and they're trying to take their mind off it by making silly posts, or they've gotten divorced, or lost their job, or any other hardship you can imagine. You don't know, so why say something that they could be taking much harder than you intended?

Honestly, take the advice or leave it. You can just say whatever you want. I'm done responding to you.
Just shake it off like a champ.
Sorry if my posts hurt your feelings, but please keep in mind what you just wrote to me as you read some of your own posts (pretty hash language, but my own record is also tainted).


coastal_climber


Mar 21, 2007, 9:06 PM
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I've heard that women climb using their legs more than men, so that would make climbing easier for them.

>Cam


kevinheiss


Mar 21, 2007, 10:49 PM
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If you compare Top men vs Top Women, then I would say that women have not reach the same level as men. But I know several women at my climbing gym who are climbing at about the same level as I am or even higher.

I just think it is easier for a men to get better then a women just because of the muscle mass aspect. It jsut take women a little longer which is probably why t takes them a little longer to get stronger in their grades. But I could be wrong.

Kevin


deschamps1000


Mar 21, 2007, 11:02 PM
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Can someone please explain to me how you could answer "yes" to the poll? How many women have climbed 14d? One. Men? a dozen?

I am not sexist, I just think it is okay to acknowledge that males and females are better at different things.


alxg


Mar 21, 2007, 11:16 PM
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i think it boils down to the type of route are we talking about. my husband out-climbs me on overhanging-need-the-gorilla-reach-to-make-the-move routes, but i shine on the balancey-crimpy-trust-my-feet stuff. that being said does it matter that i have to make 2-3 more moves on the same route he makes one or that he has to learn to trust his feet more. no, we're not competing, we're out having a great time enjoying each other's company sharing a fun/hard summit and understanding what each other had to do to get there. that's what i find inherently fun about this world. we're all very different in what we're good at...viva la differances!!!!!!!!!!!!! it makes it great for swinging leadsLaugh


crimpandgo


Mar 21, 2007, 11:30 PM
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deschamps1000 wrote:
Can someone please explain to me how you could answer "yes" to the poll? How many women have climbed 14d? One. Men? a dozen?

I am not sexist, I just think it is okay to acknowledge that males and females are better at different things.

the answer lies in how you define "are as good as". Your definition is by grade level. Others may be by style, or beauty, other qualifiers..." maybe we can open a more meaningful thread to vote on the definition of "as good as"... Wink


Partner rgold


Mar 21, 2007, 11:57 PM
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In reply to:
Can someone please explain to me how you could answer "yes" to the poll? How many women have climbed 14d? One. Men? a dozen?

...which illustrates that woman are as good as men. The fact that there may be more men climbing at elite levels is another matter, with possibly quite different explanations unrelated to ability or potential.


(This post was edited by rgold on Mar 22, 2007, 12:00 AM)


acherry


Mar 22, 2007, 12:17 AM
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I'll throw this out there:

I (female), used to top out around 5.9 - I was having fun so I didn't see the need to try harder things. I climbed with a guy who was toping out around mid 5.10 at the same time. He climbed ugly as all hell. I climbed more gracefully at a lower grade. At the time I considered that he was a better climber.

Then I tried harder stuff. Now I can usually onsight or at least red point mid 5.10. So, i turned out to be a better climber than this guy. But I could very easily have not realized that potential if I didn't decide that pushing the grades would bring more enjoyment and make me a stronger climber.

So who's the better climber? Me a few years ago climbing pretty @ 5.9, or the dude who flailed his way up stuff a half grade harder?

Not a rhetorical question. I'm curious to hear thoughts.


squamishdirtbag


Mar 22, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Good point about 'as good as'

Lets remember the mental aspect of ascending rock and ice, is what driving us or stops us. Physical fitness is just a
side effect. Men on average have more strength, and it seems women have better balance. Tho there are always balancy men, and strong women. So i'd say there is no answer to the OP in the way it was phrased. Simply more men climb hard, that may not qualify as 'as good as'. There are always* exceptions. Any human has the potential to repeat the climb of another in equal style.


rock_junkie


Mar 22, 2007, 1:22 AM
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I cannot believe that 2/3 0f the people who voted believe females are better than males. There are countless male 14 climbers both trad and sport and about ten females who redpoint 14. Even if you were to factor in male to female ratios, men would still outperform women. Unless there are pockets of burly women out there I'm sticking to my guns.
Blaa blaa blaa...women have better form, so what, just because a group happen to start off with good technique does not mean that they will make into the elite levels.
Side note:
I did some research which looked at why the climbing community is male dominated. Short and sweet...adolescents males are encouraged somewhat to take risks where female adolescents are sheltered from them.
Males ARE in inherently stronger climbers. Males build more tendon and muscle faster than women. I dont care what anybody says about technique, you absolutely need power to get you through routes in the 13b and up range.


tallmark515


Mar 22, 2007, 2:15 AM
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When learning how to climb I was always told to watch female climbers because they know how to use their lower bodies better than men. When learning how to climb, this was an important lesson because attempting to muscle my way up with my arms was not only incredibly tiring but also very poor technique.

In the end, I think it has more to do with technique than it does sheer strength.


bbentley77


Mar 22, 2007, 2:34 AM
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Female climbers are more fun to watch... especially in tight spandex...


ajkclay


Mar 22, 2007, 3:17 AM
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jammer wrote:
The battle is fought in the head while climbing. The hell with this male vs female shit! We are all individuals, regardless of gender.

Nice work, well said mate Smile

Adam


off_center


Mar 22, 2007, 3:26 AM
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Who would you rather climb with? That's who's better . . .

(So if you you'd rather you climb by yourself, that makes you the best climber Tongue)


miavzero


Mar 22, 2007, 3:30 AM
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rock_junkie wrote:
I... you absolutely need power to get you through routes in the 13b and up range.

While power is important, I would like to point out that Megan Emmons climbed numerous 5.13b's at the age of ten, when she could only do 3 pull ups.

Megan has since retired to badass high altitude mountaineering and struggling on 5.11's


curt


Mar 22, 2007, 3:34 AM
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rock_junkie wrote:
I cannot believe that 2/3 0f the people who voted believe females are better than males...

That isn't even one of the options, is it?

Curt


bennydh


Mar 22, 2007, 4:20 AM
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I love this thread. Really. Keeping it honest; I like the body I have molded because of climbing, but when my shirt comes off, its because I sweat and it keeps me cool. To assume there is an ego determining whether or not my shirt comes off sounds ridiculous to me. I feel like it acknowledges certain broken subject-object relationships between men and women. Ones that can only be established by comparison and internalized negations, just like the OP poll does. I don't think anyone really needs to validate the question and/or answer. I wonder if there are any female sociologists/feminists out there that wanna get in here clear up some discussion issues and maybe 'man up' to some real facts that have already been mentioned.


bbentley77


Mar 22, 2007, 4:27 AM
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bennydh wrote:
I love this thread. Really. Keeping it honest; I like the body I have molded because of climbing, but when my shirt comes off, its because I sweat and it keeps me cool. To assume there is an ego determining whether or not my shirt comes off sounds ridiculous to me. I feel like it acknowledges certain broken subject-object relationships between men and women. Ones that can only be established by comparison and internalized negations, just like the OP poll does. I don't think anyone really needs to validate the question and/or answer. I wonder if there are any female sociologists/feminists out there that wanna get in here clear up some discussion issues and maybe 'man up' to some real facts that have already been mentioned.

I know.... maybe you're a fag....


rock_junkie


Mar 22, 2007, 5:25 AM
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Sorry Curt, at the time I wrote that 67% of the voters felt that way. More like 71% now.


rock_junkie


Mar 22, 2007, 5:32 AM
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Oh ya, I'm not talking about outliers such as Sharma, Caldwell, Lauren, etc. Without some power in your climbing, your options are severely limited in the 12+ arena.
Come on, seriously, 13b and you cant pull a few campus moves. Did this Megan person aid these routes?

(This post was edited by rock_junkie on Mar 22, 2007, 5:47 AM)


sky7high


Mar 22, 2007, 5:51 AM
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Well, quite frankly I don't know, perhaps there are more elite male climbers because there are more male climbers overall, perhaps not, but anyway, i'd like to point out something I found rather interesting. I am a MALE, yet...

1. When I started climbing, I had LESS muscle than girls that were also starting
2. I do NOT rely on upper-body strength as much as lower body technique. I met this guy, who on his first lesson was climbing the 45 degree overhang with only his hands, and even if I can't do more than 3 moves with only my hands, I climb better than him.
3. Footwork is EXTREMELY important to me

From this, and many other factors I have concluded my style is different from that of other males, and somewhat more like a female's. This means that there can be no absolute generalization or grouping according to gender.


granite_grrl


Mar 22, 2007, 12:26 PM
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rock_junkie wrote:
Sorry Curt, at the time I wrote that 67% of the voters felt that way. More like 71% now.

In reply to:
Poll: Do you think female climbers are as good as males?

Where does it ask if women are better at climbing than men?


themadmilkman


Mar 22, 2007, 12:49 PM
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rock_junkie wrote:
Oh ya, I'm not talking about outliers such as Sharma, Caldwell, Lauren, etc. Without some power in your climbing, your options are severely limited in the 12+ arena.
Come on, seriously, 13b and you cant pull a few campus moves. Did this Megan person aid these routes?

The question can't be answered without looking at the outliers. Perhaps if it had been phrased, "Do you think female climbers overall are as good as males?" then we could ignore them.


blueeyedclimber


Mar 22, 2007, 1:42 PM
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If we look at the next generation, we see floods of young girls getting into climbing. I bet the people that are saying no way might change their tune in another 10-20 years. There still might be more men at the elite level then women but that doesn't matter. Women have had to stand up to this comparison ever since Adam and Eve (if you believe in that).

I think there are a lot more men that are pushed by the competiveness to push the grades. With all of the women that I climb with, that is not what drives them. Sure they want to get better and climb the next grade, but it doesn't define them. Men, I think just succumb to that a little easier. I think the better question is which sex is more insecure?

Josh


cchas


Mar 22, 2007, 2:13 PM
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I just figure its a thing of there is more men that are climbing so you are more likely to tap into those that are "genetically" gifted. As more and more women get into climbing there will be more and more women like Josune and Lynn, and more and more men getting their ego tweaked.

Personally, I know a lot of women who are fairly decent rock climbers. Shell started trad climbing (ok I should say also started to lead) at 5.10c. Another one I know in her second or third year of leading cracks was leading 5.11d. Actually , I'd like to see more women follow in their footsteps.


sidepull


Mar 22, 2007, 4:03 PM
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I think a lot of this discussion is a bit diluted/deluded by PC pleasantries. The question is a question of means (averages), not the ends of the distributions (elites). In other words, does the average female climber climb as good (defined by the OP as hard grades) as the average male climber. Most of the responses seem to dance around biological and sociological realities as well as ignore evidence that provides a simple concrete answer to the question as the OP has defined it.


ihategrigris


Mar 22, 2007, 4:25 PM
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sidepull wrote:
I think a lot of this discussion is a bit diluted/deluded by PC pleasantries. The question is a question of means (averages), not the ends of the distributions (elites). In other words, does the average female climber climb as good (defined by the OP as hard grades) as the average male climber. Most of the responses seem to dance around biological and sociological realities as well as ignore evidence that provides a simple concrete answer to the question as the OP has defined it.

Well, if you phrase it that way.... your average female climber climbs as hard as your average male climber IMHO. At the elite end of the scale, the hardest routes are still being pulled by male climbers, though even there it's probably only 4 or 5 people down until you hit the top female. (unlike say sprinting where the differences between males and females are HUUUUGE!)


azrockclimber


Mar 22, 2007, 5:26 PM
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anykineclimb wrote:
I know one thing for sure.

There will ALWAYS be a woman climbing stonger than me.

does it matter?
Do I care??

haha... Yep...that is totally true for me too...most climber chicks I know out-climb me.

To the OP....NO...the best women do not climb harder than the best men... please tell me you knew that and that you are just a troll.

Women are amazing athletes! however, top women are not going to be stronger, faster, and better than top men as far as climbing goes. It just isn't in the genetic makeup.


deschamps1000


Mar 22, 2007, 5:36 PM
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rgold wrote:
In reply to:
Can someone please explain to me how you could answer "yes" to the poll? How many women have climbed 14d? One. Men? a dozen?

...which illustrates that woman are as good as men. The fact that there may be more men climbing at elite levels is another matter, with possibly quite different explanations unrelated to ability or potential.

You obviously didn't get my point. To make it more obvious, apply the same rationale to 15a. No women climb 15a while some men do. Thus men are better than women climbers.


Partner cracklover


Mar 22, 2007, 7:01 PM
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deschamps1000 wrote:
rgold wrote:
In reply to:
Can someone please explain to me how you could answer "yes" to the poll? How many women have climbed 14d? One. Men? a dozen?

...which illustrates that woman are as good as men. The fact that there may be more men climbing at elite levels is another matter, with possibly quite different explanations unrelated to ability or potential.

You obviously didn't get my point. To make it more obvious, apply the same rationale to 15a. No women climb 15a while some men do. Thus men are better than women climbers.

deschamps1000, I think you're missing the numerical argument, here. It hasn't been spelled out very well, though, so that's perfectly understandable.

Let's say for the sake of argument that women have exactly the same ability level as men do. Exactly the same potential.

Let's take that as our theory, and see if that matches the real world. Well, naturally, people will fall within a bell curve of ability. Most people will be in the middle, while there will be a few outliers on either side. The more the participants, the larger the bell curve.

Since perhaps twice the number of men as women climb, it might look something like this:


Please note that on the far right side, where the number of climbers in each set drop to zero, the male curve extends further right (higher max climbing difficulty) than does the female, though both are similar.

Okay, now this does not *prove* our original premise, that women have exactly the same potential, exactly the same inherant ability. What it does show, though, is that the fact that a few men climb harder than the best women does *not* prove that men inherently climb harder. Because there is an excellent model that explains why a few men would climb harder, it makes *more* sense that women and men are on an equal footing.

However the only way to really determine that for sure would be to take a random sampling, with the same sample size, and then compare those.

GO


Partner cracklover


Mar 22, 2007, 7:13 PM
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acherry wrote:
I'll throw this out there:

I (female), used to top out around 5.9 - I was having fun so I didn't see the need to try harder things. I climbed with a guy who was toping out around mid 5.10 at the same time. He climbed ugly as all hell. I climbed more gracefully at a lower grade. At the time I considered that he was a better climber.

Then I tried harder stuff. Now I can usually onsight or at least red point mid 5.10. So, i turned out to be a better climber than this guy. But I could very easily have not realized that potential if I didn't decide that pushing the grades would bring more enjoyment and make me a stronger climber.

So who's the better climber? Me a few years ago climbing pretty @ 5.9, or the dude who flailed his way up stuff a half grade harder?

Not a rhetorical question. I'm curious to hear thoughts.

Hard to know exactly what you're asking.

If the question is: who has more drive and determination - clearly he did before, and you do now.

If the question is who climbed harder: the answer (according to your post, though perhaps you're being modest) is that he did before, but you now climb as hard as he did before. I happen to know that he doesn't climb much now, but I guess that's beside the point.

Since you climbed prettier throughout, I guess we can determine that climbing pretty is nice, but whoever has more drive and determination will be on the harder climbs. I happen to think that you have more potential than he does, but time will tell.

GO


deschamps1000


Mar 22, 2007, 8:16 PM
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While GO's fancy chart looks nice, it is based on the assumption that the median climbing ability of women and men is equal.

My experience has shown otherwise. I believe that if you poll all male climbers and all female climbers, men will have a higher medial climbing ability. Think about the range in which most women and men climb at your local gym.

This would thus shift the men's bell curve to the right, making men better climbers.


(This post was edited by deschamps1000 on Mar 22, 2007, 8:17 PM)


quiteatingmysteak


Mar 22, 2007, 8:31 PM
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I would love to vote yes, but since there are no women around to hear it where im standing... im going to have to be honest.


It's ok though, men can't birth as well as women.


Wink


skinnyclimber


Mar 22, 2007, 8:41 PM
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The best climber is the one having the most....











BEER.

So obviously men are better climbers. Hmmmm yummy beer.


sidepull


Mar 22, 2007, 8:57 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Let's say for the sake of argument that women have exactly the same ability level as men do. Exactly the same potential.

That's a huge assumption and without it the medians don't line up on your chart. It completely disregards the reality that harder routes are, on average, steeper, featuring longer reaches between smaller holds. As I noted above, top female climbers have openly acknowledged that it gets to a point where biology intercedes - women tend to be shorter with shorter wingspans and therefore they can't make necessary moves. Sure, on some routes you can find small features and new beta but on a lot of high end routes the holds used are the only holds.

cracklover wrote:
Let's take that as our theory, and see if that matches the real world. Well, naturally, people will fall within a bell curve of ability. . . .

Please note that on the far right side, where the number of climbers in each set drop to zero, the male curve extends further right (higher max climbing difficulty) than does the female, though both are similar..

You're also arguing that there are more men to left. Do you honestly believe that? My experience and eyeballing data from 8a says no.

cracklover wrote:
Okay, now this does not *prove* our original premise, that women have exactly the same potential, exactly the same inherant ability.

The discussion has never been about potential, it's about the current state of affairs. Do women climb as good as men as measured by grade.

cracklover wrote:
What it does show, though, is that the fact that a few men climb harder than the best women does *not* prove that men inherently climb harder.

Agreed - a larger population should lead to more elite performances. But that doesn't mean that the means line up. There is no logic for why they should and there are a lot of reasons for why they don't.

cracklover wrote:
Because there is an excellent model that explains why a few men would climb harder, it makes *more* sense that women and men are on an equal footing.

Why is that the logical conclusion? Why isn't a model with two samples with different means equally excellent?

cracklover wrote:
However the only way to really determine that for sure would be to take a random sampling, with the same sample size, and then compare those.

GO

Nope. You don't have to have the same sample size to compare samples. But, to your point, I urge you to randomly select 50 men and 50 women from 8a's data base and run an ANOVA and see if the null hypothesis (no difference) holds. In fact, if I get really bored in the next two days, maybe I'll do it myself. Note that I realize that 8a is self report data and people are self-selecting (by choosing to report on 8a) but I think it's more accurate than a lot of the opinions thrown out here.


olderic


Mar 22, 2007, 9:31 PM
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How many cliches can be put into a single thread? This one is amazing - just about every post has 2 or 3.


cchas


Mar 22, 2007, 9:40 PM
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and you woulld also have to assume that not only that the self-reporting is accurate, but both sexes report on the site at about equal rate out of the population. Based on what I see, I'd think women would self-report at a lower rate then the men do.

Now someone explain the rankings in mixed climbing. Since you don't see that many women leading mixed climbs, you would not figure that in competitions that women would rank among the top men, or down right beat them. So, can someone explain to me the the comps in the last few years with the outstanding preformances of Ines and Audrey.


(This post was edited by cchas on Mar 22, 2007, 9:46 PM)


dingus


Mar 22, 2007, 9:49 PM
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Why do you anxious young boys feel the need to prove your superiority over women anyway? Put your woodies away and stop crowing about how hard you are, no one gives a fuck. (!)

DMT


cchas


Mar 22, 2007, 9:57 PM
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DMT.... they have now proven that don't have anything to put away.... Especially when they get miffed about someone else (and oh my god, its a .... no it can't be... its a "girl") being stronger then they are.

Someday they will learn that there will be someone who is stronger then they are, and some of them will be women.

PS: thats why I like climbing with women (outside that their women). I don't have to deal with the ego thing.


phillygoat


Mar 22, 2007, 10:21 PM
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rock_junkie wrote:
I dont care what anybody says about technique, you absolutely need power to get you through routes in the 13b and up range.

Good to know that when I fail on anything less than 13b, power wasn't the issue!


nika


Mar 22, 2007, 10:44 PM
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This is one of those questions that is not well defined enough to get that accurrate an answer. There have been some interesting points made, though. I guess one thing that is easier to compare is climbers at elite levels, because at those levels, there are fewer things factoring into climbing level -- at more moderate levels, there are people who climb very frequently, those who hardly climb at all, those who make climbing a big part of their lives, those who don't, etc. So elite levels are probably easier to compare because some of those factors have already been somewhat adjusted for.

So, the way it seems to work now is, there do seem to be more men climbing at the really elite levels, and the consensus seems to be that JB is more of an outlier. However, I think that an explanation for this is the grading system as a whole. Imagine this scenario for an example:

You've got a competition between, say, five guys and a girl. And they all have climbed, say 10 5.10s in their life. They are presented with two routes, and the girl is going to choose which one the competition is going to happen on. The routes both have the same grade, but one is more balancy/facey/techniquey/whatever girls are stereotypically good at, and one is more powerful, overhanging/etc. I think the girl is almost always going to choose the first route, because it plays to her strengths. I think the boys, if they were allowed to choose, would be more evenly split -- some would do better than the other boys on route A, others would beat the other boys on route B.

The point of that example is to show that, if you could create a male climber who somehow incorporated all the strengths and weaknesses of other males, so was the perfectly average male, every 5.10 would (or at least should) feel equally hard to him. However, if you created the perfectly average female, in general, as routes get more burly, they would feel harder -- even if they have the same grade.

So what's the point of that? Well, that means that grading is subjective. Duh. But the reason THAT is important is because grading seems to primarily be done by men. And I think this IS because there are more male climbers (as someone pointed out earlier), and I think as the ratio gets more even, this will be less true. But because men are putting up almost all of the hard FA's at this point, those FA's are suiting their style more.

A really good female first ascentionist could put up routes that feel like a 5.13 to her, but would feel like 5.15 to any males that came along. Teeny holds that fit her fingers (the Nose isn't a good example of that because Tommy proved that this isn't the case -- I'm talking REALLY teeny holds), scrunchy little moves, big flexible stems -- and men simply would have more trouble with it than her.

So, that's the problem with using grades as the measure for this question. Now, a good question might be why are there not as many female FAers at a really high level? I guess one answer to this is that FA'ers tend to have been into climbing for a while, and so right now the FAers came from an era when the male to female ratio was higher. As that ratio continues to drop, maybe there will be more female FA'ers putting up things that really play to their strengths, and the whole way that grades work might change.


nika


Mar 22, 2007, 10:57 PM
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Oh, and a P.S.: I'm cracking up at the people who are trying to say that girls on average are less competitive than boys on average. I really don't think competitiveness is gender biased, at all. Maybe certain aspects of competitiveness (is that a word?) correlate more with one gender than the other, but even that seems to really be a factor of nurture, not nature.


quiteatingmysteak


Mar 23, 2007, 12:00 AM
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olderic wrote:
How many cliches can be put into a single thread? This one is amazing - just about every post has 2 or 3.


tradrenn


Mar 23, 2007, 12:10 AM
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Yes


olderic


Mar 23, 2007, 1:26 AM
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Can anyone guess that my little girl - Nika - is going to be a lawyer? Year one at Harvard LS. Did anyone actually read her whole diatribe to the end? Whatever you do - don't argue with her - just stick her on something burly and that will shut her up...


curt


Mar 23, 2007, 1:57 AM
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granite_grrl wrote:
rock_junkie wrote:
Sorry Curt, at the time I wrote that 67% of the voters felt that way. More like 71% now.

In reply to:
Poll: Do you think female climbers are as good as males?

Where does it ask if women are better at climbing than men?

Maybe one of the choices should be whether or not women have superior reading skills to men?

Curt


jakedatc


Mar 23, 2007, 2:18 AM
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Yep.. best thing i can comment about that is go watch the girls that climb consistently at the top of comps.. hollly crap they go out to win and strive to be better than the next girl every time out. A girl on the gym i go to's team actually wanted the girl that consistently beats her to be at the last comp so that she could have that competition. And they are definitely not all slabmasters and 3 points on blah blah stereotype.. as alot of comp setters purposely put them out of their comfort zone and make them campus, dyno, iron cross etc to test who is best.

case in point.. go watch Cicada climb.. she's freaking burly.. Learning at a young age that you don't HAVE to "climb like a girl" all the time.. there are places where being aggressive is far easier and more effective

I think there will be more girls like Josune coming up.. the kids that are doing comps now will get that strong and be motivated by themselves or sponsorships to go send hard shit more often..


kachoong


Mar 23, 2007, 2:49 AM
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I didn't vote, because I don't think it really matters and it's difficult to compare. Does steak taste better than fish? There are good female climbers and there are good male climbers. The best of the best all earn a living and n00b onlookers will always point, stare and marvel at the technique and strength they see in front of them.

All climbers use the footwear, ropes, and gear that is best for them. They all train, utilizing regimes that best suit them. They climb for different periods of time at different times of the year. All climbers climb different types of rock, with different sized and shaped holds.

You would need to keep all the above variables (plus more) constant except the male and female, in order to see if there is a difference. Impossible!


aglane


Mar 23, 2007, 3:37 AM
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acherry wrote:
I'll throw this out there:

I (female), used to top out around 5.9 - I was having fun so I didn't see the need to try harder things. I climbed with a guy who was toping out around mid 5.10 at the same time. He climbed ugly as all hell. I climbed more gracefully at a lower grade. At the time I considered that he was a better climber.

Then I tried harder stuff. Now I can usually onsight or at least red point mid 5.10. So, i turned out to be a better climber than this guy. But I could very easily have not realized that potential if I didn't decide that pushing the grades would bring more enjoyment and make me a stronger climber.

So who's the better climber? Me a few years ago climbing pretty @ 5.9, or the dude who flailed his way up stuff a half grade harder?

Not a rhetorical question. I'm curious to hear thoughts.

Here's the kind of response that is right on. The topic ought engage the quality of climbing not just some variant of strength.

One of the most elegant climbers I ever saw was Edith MacDonald, who simply glided up on the tiniest of holds, for at under five feet, she needed at last half again as many as most [male] climbers. (see Yankee Rock and Ice p. 106) Some of us couldn't even see her holds....

Such qualities don't exactly get captured by questions about "as good as."


clausti


Mar 23, 2007, 4:01 AM
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Re: [kachoong] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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warning: long, scientific style rambling below.

I have had a lot of exposure to first time climbers, because i began climbing in a gym at 15, because i belayed for parties to maintain my membership there for a few years, because i climbed in a college rec center for years, and because i have done a limited amount of top rope climbing. I also have a pretty good amount of exposure to more experianced climbers via lots of weekend warrior trips outside and via two summer-length road trips and being 2 months into a longer one. Here are my observations from 6 and a half years of climbing, high school, college, and road trips:

A factor that I am not seeing extrapolated on in this thread yet is a definition of "good" by good=grade/time climbing. The rate of learning is a better measure of both motivation and skill than peak performace. I am assuming that the question in the poll is more curious about the instantaneous measure of ability of all climbers RIGHT NOW (despite our inability to know this), as it is a better indicator of relative skills than peak performance, since the ratio of male to female climbers over time is changing dramatically, and I disqualify old redpoints from being significant data.

What I have observed in first time climbers, from 6 year olds to srs. in college (so, all children and adolescents), is that women tend to be more skillfull immediately, because they tend to be at once less strong in their upper bodies AND less obstinate. Thus, they are willing to accept direction, without getting defensive. This will not immediately propel them to climb 5.10 in the gym like upper body strength will for most young men, but they will experience a severely foreshortened first plateau compared to men who immediately strength their way to 5.10.

First time female climbers, in general, are aware of the expectation that they will fail. They *are* women of our still sexist society, and, not plagued by identity issues of masculinity like young men, young women feel no stigma to fail at "extreme" athletic activity such as rock climbing. Some young women take that information, and set out to fail, for their own identity issues of feminity, but many young women take that information and try their best, because there is no shame to try and no shame to fail, but there IS grace to succeed.

First time male climbers, in the contexts that I have experienced them, show off more, but are hobbled by image maintenance among their peers. While they are stronger to begin, and experience an immediate gratification of top roping into the double digits, their first plateau will be exceptionally difficult to break out of, because they must not only increase their strength and learn new techniques like the female climbers, they must also un-learn their shoulder-centric bad habits to break the plateau.

Where this intersects with rate of improvement as the benchmark for ranking in climbing is that many women, despite having similar potential to men over similar if not identical timelines, will just not stay in the sport as long as most men. It is a cliché that men climb for the length of undergrad, while women climb for the length of their first college boyfriend, but it did not become a cliché by being entirely untrue. Even if a woman’s affair with rock climbing outlasts the boyfriend that likely introduced her, it will probably not outlast the *next* boyfriend, who doesn’t climb and feels threatened by her athletic superiority, or her nonconformity. Because the other cliché is true also, that girls will follow their boyfriends to the crag, but guys just don’t follow their girlfriends to the crag all that often.

Therefore, even IF you have equal potentiality curves for male and female climbers over time and even IF you have an exactly equal ratio of male to female climbers in any given day, the male climbers, overall, will *always* be better than the female climbers because their median will fall in a higher place on the potentiality curve, if the average male has been climbing longer than the average female.


(This post was edited by clausti on Mar 23, 2007, 4:09 AM)


joshy8200


Mar 23, 2007, 4:36 AM
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clausti wrote:
A lot of stuff that makes a lot of sense.

I will admit that what I said on the first page does not answer this question as well as Clausti. The problem with your observational data Clausti...is that it is completely subjective and based only on your experience.

I have witnessed many first time female climbers and many beginning female climbers at gyms who are terrible. Many are afraid of climbing...even in the gym. I have also seen female and male climbers completely freeze up when climbing outside...totally shut down on 30ft of 5.5 climbing.

I blew answering this question on the first page, because I automatically assumed this as a question on peak level of climbing.


clausti


Mar 23, 2007, 4:48 AM
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Re: [joshy8200] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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joshy8200 wrote:

... The problem with your observational data Clausti...is that it is completely subjective and based only on your experience.
yes, absolutely.

In reply to:
I have witnessed many first time female climbers and many beginning female climbers at gyms who are terrible. Many are afraid of climbing...even in the gym.

yes, absolutely. climbing for the first time is a unique experiance and i have no way of controlling for my personal observatoinal bias and no way of knowing what proportion of individuals will conform to the "tends to" statements, and how many will be exceptions. but I think that the statement in bold stands, with the note that the final qualifier is an if statement.


joshy8200


Mar 23, 2007, 4:58 AM
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clausti wrote:
but I think that the statement in bold stands, with the note that the final qualifier is an if statement.

Probably so. Could be interesting to compile objective data on male/female beginner perfomance indoor and outdoor.

I hypothesize though that over a large random pool (completely randomized...not just people coming to the climbing wall even for a party because that isn't really random) beginner ability would all equal out in the wash.


jt512


Mar 23, 2007, 6:23 AM
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Re: [nika] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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nika wrote:
Now, a good question might be why are there not as many female FAers at a really high level?

Because putting up new routes at that level requires competency with power tools. Duh.

Jay


jt512


Mar 23, 2007, 6:39 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Let's take that as our theory, and see if that matches the real world. Well, naturally, people will fall within a bell curve of ability. Most people will be in the middle, while there will be a few outliers on either side. The more the participants, the larger the bell curve.

Since perhaps twice the number of men as women climb, it might look something like this:


Please note that on the far right side, where the number of climbers in each set drop to zero, the male curve extends further right (higher max climbing difficulty) than does the female, though both are similar.

True. However, the male curve also extends further to the left than the female curve. Thus, your theory implies that men will be both the best and the worst climbers, and therefore women will be the most mediocre.

I hope you're not looking for a climbing girlfriend.

Jay


crispin


Mar 23, 2007, 8:11 AM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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anybody that tells you women aren't as good at climbing as men are talking utter crap. ok most of the top climbers are male at the moment but that is changing all the time. if you take the more normal mortals amongst us there is no divide what ever advantage there is between men / women is equalled out, ok guys have more muscles but alot of the the women i climb with have a far better strength to weight ratio than i do. i think it is far more to do with the individuals mind set and commitment to their sport and how hard they want to push, besides you dont get the hole ego, matcho bollocks with girls much easier to climb with oh and they smell better after a few days climbing in a small tent.
cris


nilregrets


Mar 23, 2007, 10:57 AM
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I hear left handed, and blue eyed people are better climbers as well Cool


blueeyedclimber


Mar 23, 2007, 1:02 PM
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Re: [nilregrets] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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nilregrets wrote:
and blue eyed people are better climbers as well Cool

That is ENTIRELY correct!Smile

Josh


Gmburns2000


Mar 23, 2007, 2:32 PM
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Re: [curt] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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curt wrote:

Maybe one of the choices should be whether or not women have superior reading skills to men?

Curt

No way. I can outread ANY woman. Put me in front of a series of good books on Friday and by Sunday night...oh, wait a minute. Sorry. Wrong reading. Nevermind.Tongue


Gmburns2000


Mar 23, 2007, 2:36 PM
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Re: [nilregrets] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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nilregrets wrote:
I hear left handed, and blue eyed people are better climbers as well Cool

No, just blue-eyed climbers. Ambidexterous climbers can climb with both hands!


yanqui


Mar 23, 2007, 3:04 PM
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Re: [deschamps1000] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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deschamps1000 wrote:
rgold wrote:
In reply to:
Can someone please explain to me how you could answer "yes" to the poll? How many women have climbed 14d? One. Men? a dozen?

...which illustrates that woman are as good as men. The fact that there may be more men climbing at elite levels is another matter, with possibly quite different explanations unrelated to ability or potential.

You obviously didn't get my point. To make it more obvious, apply the same rationale to 15a. No women climb 15a while some men do. Thus men are better than women climbers.

Yeah, I didn't get your point either. But I clearly understood what rgold was getting at.

So first you say there are more men who sport climb 14d than women. However women (at least Josune) CAN sport climb 14d (and possibly 15a), so maybe the reason there aren't more women climbing at this level has nothing to do with any PHYSICAL limitations. Duh.

Then you come back with 15a stuff, like a letter grade harder is some huge difference, and like I guess you've confirmed that Bimbaluna is only 14d and not 15a.

Here, let me illustrate how stupid your arguments are. The Basque country has about 3 million inhabitants. And yet there are about a dozen sport climbers there who climb 14d and several who have climbed 15a. One climber has even flashed 14b. Plus there's like 5 climbers who have summited all the 8,000 meter peaks. So by comparison, America, having 300 million inhabitants, should have 1,200 people who climb 14d, several hundred who climb 15a and 500 who have summitted all the 8,000 meter peaks (Ed Viesturs is all alone here). As far as I know, no American has ever flashed 14b. So by your idiotic reasoning, we would have to conclude that Americans are just genetically inferior and phyisically limited compared to the Basque. They lack ability and potential. Because of these limitations Americans will never reach the levels of Basque climbers.

See how stupid that kind of reasoning is?


deschamps1000


Mar 23, 2007, 3:12 PM
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Re: [yanqui] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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wan-qui, you seem to have forgetten the orginal question. It is "Do you think female climbers are as good as males" not "Do you think female climbers could be as good as males if more of them climbed".


yanqui


Mar 23, 2007, 3:26 PM
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Re: [deschamps1000] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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deschamps1000 wrote:
wan-qui, you seem to have forgetten the orginal question. It is "Do you think female climbers are as good as males" not "Do you think female climbers could be as good as males if more of them climbed".


Dickchamps: the question, as you stated. is totally ambiguous. There is no mention of any comparison of numbers in the phrase "Do you think female climbers are as good as males". Josune, having sport climbed 14d and possibly 15a sports climbs about as hard as any man. Lynn Hill, having put up the Nose, trad climbed at a level which wasn't repeated for more than a decade. On the other hand, women don't boulder as hard as men do.

So the answer is YES, except maybe at bouldering. Duh.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Mar 23, 2007, 3:29 PM)


Partner cracklover


Mar 23, 2007, 3:36 PM
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Re: [jt512] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Let's take that as our theory, and see if that matches the real world. Well, naturally, people will fall within a bell curve of ability. Most people will be in the middle, while there will be a few outliers on either side. The more the participants, the larger the bell curve.

Since perhaps twice the number of men as women climb, it might look something like this:
[IMG]http://i12.tinypic.com/4c12mxk.gif[/IMG]

Please note that on the far right side, where the number of climbers in each set drop to zero, the male curve extends further right (higher max climbing difficulty) than does the female, though both are similar.

True. However, the male curve also extends further to the left than the female curve. Thus, your theory implies that men will be both the best and the worst climbers, and therefore women will be the most mediocre.

I hope you're not looking for a climbing girlfriend.

Jay

Hahaha! Actually, she beat you to it! At the climbing gym last night, she pointed out that flaw in my graph. Both men and women must start at the same point on the left hand side. We agreed that a more accurate representation of the graph might be one in which the left quarter of the graph was cut off.

She then proceeded to outclimb me all night, including nailing her hardest onsight to date.

Life is good!

GCool


randomjive


Mar 23, 2007, 3:42 PM
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Re: [suzie_cuzie] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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I have been climbing for about a year now, and I started and am frequently climbing in a gym, and I learned a lot from the ladies. I feel that it would be easier for men to get into the sport, but the girls I know who have been climbing for a while are pretty effin great at it. AND they're real easy on the eyes when you're resting... So I say let's hear it for the ladies


calfcramp


Mar 23, 2007, 3:53 PM
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this is absolutely true.


Partner cracklover


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Re: [deschamps1000] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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deschamps1000 wrote:
While GO's fancy chart looks nice, it is based on the assumption that the median climbing ability of women and men is equal.

My experience has shown otherwise. I believe that if you poll all male climbers and all female climbers, men will have a higher medial climbing ability. Think about the range in which most women and men climb at your local gym.

This would thus shift the men's bell curve to the right, making men better climbers.

I did just that. Last night, I randomly polled 22 women and 21 men at my local gym. The question I asked each was as follows: "What is the hardest route you think you could climb tonight, without falling, or taking on the rope." The answers ranged from 5.12a/b down to 5.7.

And the average?
M: 5.10c
W: 5.10a

As to whether there might be a bias towards men who'd climbed longer, I did not attempt to quantify. I asked a lot of noobs and a lot of experienced folks, in both genders. Interestingly, almost always, when women and men were climbing in pairs, the women responded with a lower or equal number than her male partner.

GO


Partner cracklover


Mar 23, 2007, 4:01 PM
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Re: [olderic] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
Can anyone guess that my little girl - Nika - is going to be a lawyer? Year one at Harvard LS. Did anyone actually read her whole diatribe to the end? Whatever you do - don't argue with her - just stick her on something burly and that will shut her up...

Hmm, that's not very nice. Course you're her dad, it's your job to tease.

But honestly, she made a very valid point.

I haven't done more than a handful or two of FAs, but as you know, I set at the gym, and have been setting for about four years. One thing I quickly realized is that one sets to one's own strengths. I had to shift up the difficulty ratings on my climbs, because other climbers who were capable of doing stuff at that level could not get up them.

If you think Nika's mistaken, just try getting on one of Tanya's routes some time!

GO


olderic


Mar 23, 2007, 4:14 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
olderic wrote:
Can anyone guess that my little girl - Nika - is going to be a lawyer? Year one at Harvard LS. Did anyone actually read her whole diatribe to the end? Whatever you do - don't argue with her - just stick her on something burly and that will shut her up...

Hmm, that's not very nice. Course you're her dad, it's your job to tease.

But honestly, she made a very valid point.

I haven't done more than a handful or two of FAs, but as you know, I set at the gym, and have been setting for about four years. One thing I quickly realized is that one sets to one's own strengths. I had to shift up the difficulty ratings on my climbs, because other climbers who were capable of doing stuff at that level could not get up them.

If you think Nika's mistaken, just try getting on one of Tanya's routes some time!

GO

On no I am not saying that Nika is mistaken. Although the basis of her argument is that there are "girl" climbs and "boy" climbs that are rated using a common system (YDS in our case) even though they require very different types of abilities, and that the top females can do as well as the top males on climbs that sterotypically suit women.

I was just poking fun at her longwinded examples with the numbers and letters and so foth - so typical of Nika.

The problem I am having now is that she is even out doing me on boy climbs - grrrr.

Tanya's routes seem to be exercises in setting anti-tall person routes. Not "boy" or "girl" but "midget" climbs. And she (Tanya) does a good job at it. Imterestingly Nika, who is fairly tall and lanky, does not do particulairy well on Tanya's routes (I expect that will generate a squack from Nika if she sees ths).

You know what would be intereesting would be to see how males would do in an athletic sport that is traditionally a female one - unevan bars for example.


Partner cracklover


Mar 23, 2007, 4:27 PM
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Re: [clausti] Do you think female climbers are as good as males? [In reply to]
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Clausti, I don't disagree with your experience, however it is not universal. I have as much if not more experience with noobs as do you (among other things, I taught noobs to climb for several years at a YMCA). My experience differed in several ways from yours.

I found that men often got up a harder climb their first night, than women. Women may have picked up technique very slightly faster than men, but not enough to allow them to catch up within a short time (with exceptions, of course). Also, both men and women equally had issues with how they were perceived on the rock (plastic?). Neither wanted to look bad. To avoid the perception of failure, they both used a variety of tactics. The most common tactic, used equally by men and women, was "I can't". By not trying, they take control, and don't have to worry about being perceived as trying hard and then looking foolish when they failed. When they did try a little harder but still had trouble, women tended sometimes to pull back a bit - climbing more conservatively, so when they failed, at least they failed in control, while men tended more towards veering into the goofy right before failure. Plenty of examples where men took the conservative route, and women the goofy, I'm just talking about trends. All of these behaviours lessened, in both genders as the climbers got more into the climbs, and would push to true failure.

But on the whole, all seem to hit a plateau at 5.8, another at about 5.9, and a longer one at 5.10. But this often takes a long time - longer than I instructed them, so I don't have enough experience to speak to the issue of how long each of these plateaus lasts for men and women.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Mar 23, 2007, 4:32 PM)


sidepull


Mar 23, 2007, 4:56 PM
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yanqui wrote:
On the other hand, women don't boulder as hard as men do.

So the answer is YES, except maybe at bouldering. Duh.

The problem is that the "except" here completely undermines the "YES" because modern routes are heavily influenced by the popularity of and skills developed from bouldering. Again, this reinforces Lisa Rands comments that it will be harder for women to boulder at the same grades as men because, on average they are shorter and have shorter wingspans. As bouldering continues to influence route climbing (particularly sport but it's also creeping into new burly trad routes) this discrepancy will grow.


clausti


Mar 23, 2007, 5:01 PM
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cracklover wrote:
...
But on the whole, all seem to hit a plateau at 5.8, another at about 5.9, and a longer one at 5.10. But this often takes a long time - longer than I instructed them, so I don't have enough experience to speak to the issue of how long each of these plateaus lasts for men and women.

GO

out of curiosity, what was the age range for the ymca ppl? as i mentioned in my post, (the non-bold being experiances and the bold being a logical statement, following the rules of statistics), my rambling dealt with children and adolescents. I have had very limited experiance with *adults* learning to climb for the first time and so, please pardon the arrogance, I haven't much experiance with the 5.8 or 5.9 plataue. In my observations, most ppl who stayed more than a couple of sessions progressed quickly to toproping mid 5.10, and stayed there for a while. The guys got there more quickly than the girls, sometimes in the first session, but stayed there for a long time, some of them never getting the control of their feet to progress. in contrast the girls that got there did so more slowly, some over the course of weeks, but when they were there, the actual platuae (sp???) lasted a shorter amount of time, because they had been forced to aquire skills to compensate for strength already.


sidepull


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cracklover wrote:
Clausti, I don't disagree with your experience, however it is not universal. I have as much if not more experience with noobs as do you (among other things, I taught noobs to climb for several years at a YMCA). My experience differed in several ways from yours.

I found that men often got up a harder climb their first night, than women. Women may have picked up technique very slightly faster than men, but not enough to allow them to catch up within a short time (with exceptions, of course). Also, both men and women equally had issues with how they were perceived on the rock (plastic?). Neither wanted to look bad. To avoid the perception of failure, they both used a variety of tactics. The most common tactic, used equally by men and women, was "I can't". By not trying, they take control, and don't have to worry about being perceived as trying hard and then looking foolish when they failed. When they did try a little harder but still had trouble, women tended sometimes to pull back a bit - climbing more conservatively, so when they failed, at least they failed in control, while men tended more towards veering into the goofy right before failure. Plenty of examples where men took the conservative route, and women the goofy, I'm just talking about trends. All of these behaviours lessened, in both genders as the climbers got more into the climbs, and would push to true failure.

But on the whole, all seem to hit a plateau at 5.8, another at about 5.9, and a longer one at 5.10. But this often takes a long time - longer than I instructed them, so I don't have enough experience to speak to the issue of how long each of these plateaus lasts for men and women.

GO

Both crack and clausti bring up great points and the contrast is interesting. I think one important variable that clausti dismissed was age. I think young boys and girls are pretty similar in terms of willingness to learn, potential fearlessness, and body development. Young children are pretty androgenous from a kinesthetic standpoint and they are a bit more naive regarding social norms so when they get on the rock they behave in a less gendered way. So, my experience has been that both have pretty similar improvement curves. This changes at puberty, both biologically and sociologically.

Also, the idea of plateaus and who is able to break through plateaus more readily is also interesting. While there are some compelling arguments for why women might excel at learning climbing skills I think clausti correctly points out that duration of climbing experience will most likely end up being different for men and women. However, she fails to note that in the harder grades women will be forced to spend more time developing strength and I'd argue that the development curve for women overcoming that plateau is steeper for women.


clausti


Mar 23, 2007, 5:08 PM
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sidepull wrote:

Both crack and clausti bring up great points and the contrast is interesting. I think one important variable that clausti dismissed was age. ...

Also, the idea of plateaus and who is able to break through plateaus more readily is also interesting. While there are some compelling arguments for why women might excel at learning climbing skills I think clausti correctly points out that duration of climbing experience will most likely end up being different for men and women. However, she fails to note that in the harder grades women will be forced to spend more time developing strength and I'd argue that the development curve for women overcoming that plateau is steeper for women.

i didnt dismiss age as a variable. i made it a given that i was dealing with "children and adolescents."

also, i think you are correct about the plataue at harder grades. the *first* plat. is shorter for women, but the .11d/.12a plat is often longer.


shorty


Mar 23, 2007, 5:26 PM
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jt512 wrote:
nika wrote:
Now, a good question might be why are there not as many female FAers at a really high level?

Because putting up new routes at that level requires competency with power tools. Duh.

OK, but I think we must consider that these are battery powered tools. I know a few gals who have a boat load of experience with battery powered .....tools.


Gmburns2000


Mar 23, 2007, 5:32 PM
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cracklover wrote:

I haven't done more than a handful or two of FAs, but as you know, I set at the gym, and have been setting for about four years. One thing I quickly realized is that one sets to one's own strengths. I had to shift up the difficulty ratings on my climbs, because other climbers who were capable of doing stuff at that level could not get up them.

If you think Nika's mistaken, just try getting on one of Tanya's routes some time!

GO


I couldn't agree more with this point. I climb with a couple of people who are taller than me, so I actually had to decrease my grades after the initial settings. Now I tend to set shorter moves with crimps that play to thier disadvantage (height) and my advantage (ego).

But your point, I think, is this (which may be contrary to your original graph, as intriguiging as it was); that ability can almost be defined as style (crimps vs slopers, bridging vs straight up, feet vs core, etc). Blueeyedclimber had a GREAT 11a set at the gym that was really suited to my style, but these guys who were taller than me really struggled on it. Then there was this 11b/c sloper route to the right of it for a while that I couldn't get traction on, yet these guys were able to snag every hold from lower positions.

So I really think style plays an important role in this. If you want to talk about the best climbers in general, I bet they're the ones who are most balanced in terms of the various techniques that can be used. This may make the whole question of guys vs. girls impossible to answer. Climbing isn't like the 100m dash. Guys at the elite level are faster. There's no way around that. Those parameters have been standardised and set for a very long time now. But climbing isn't a single track with a *bang* start and a finish line. Maybe there's a super-slick bridge route out there that requires 180 degree stem moves to get up. I'm flexible, but not that flexible.

Oh yeah, the only way to make comparisons is at the elite level. To make comparisons below that level brings in too many factors such as: jobs, training, diet, lifestyle, time spent searching for new naughty websites, etc.. We would never compare a MLB baseball player with with some guy playing in the inter-city leagues. It's just not the same thing. You need apples to apples and you can't get that below the elite level. f someone is climbing a harder grade, they are climbing harder - period.


highangle


Mar 23, 2007, 6:09 PM
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An interesting statistical analysis would be to examine the success/fail ratio betwen men & women at the higher levels.

How many women have attempted a 15a, how many attempts at 100% failure vs. men at some unknown % of success?

Since the very highest level would be a limited number of climbs (say anything of 14+), the success ratio would be a reasonable way to determine who is "better."

It is irrelevant to say that men are better because "x men have climbed x grade" and are thus better than women, if no women have actually attempted that grade. Better should not = greater willingness to take risk.


shadowgnu


Mar 23, 2007, 6:29 PM
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The problem here is really.... why are women so worried about climbing? Last I recalled, the kitchen didn't have any necessary holds besides the stove, refridgerator, and the microwave that were too challenging. I guess going to the store might be hard too... they have to put on shoes.

Hey honey I got a V8 today... from walmart.


poomasta


Mar 23, 2007, 6:31 PM
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Highangle's post made me think about using comp results as perhaps a good source of statistical data to remove a lot of the variability associated with "hardest outdoors RP." Then again, I guess this is more a measure of relative on-sight/flash ability...not sure where that fits in terms of "As good as..."

I dunno much about comps; are the same routes (or problems) typically used for both male and female competitors? If yes, is the "biological advantage" of males (in terms of wingspan/reach) taken into account in the route setting? How signigicantly do the hardest routes/problems sent by competitors differ between guys /gals? What percentage of comp entrants are female?


shadowgnu


Mar 23, 2007, 6:35 PM
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The problem here is really.... why are women so worried about climbing? Last I recalled, the kitchen didn't have any necessary holds besides the stove, refridgerator, and the microwave that were too challenging. I guess going to the store might be hard too... they have to put on shoes.

Hey honey I got a V8 today... from walmart.


Gmburns2000


Mar 23, 2007, 6:43 PM
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poomasta wrote:
Highangle's post made me think about using comp results as perhaps a good source of statistical data to remove a lot of the variability associated with "hardest outdoors RP." Then again, I guess this is more a measure of relative on-sight/flash ability...not sure where that fits in terms of "As good as..."

I dunno much about comps; are the same routes (or problems) typically used for both male and female competitors? If yes, is the "biological advantage" of males (in terms of wingspan/reach) taken into account in the route setting? How signigicantly do the hardest routes/problems sent by competitors differ between guys /gals? What percentage of comp entrants are female?


Comp routes are not the same for guys as they are for gals. In fact, comp routes are typically harder for guys than gals. When you get to the Divisional and National level of comps, the same number of contestants exists for each gender (they have to win thier way through and only the top so many advance).

Another thing to point out here is that if the routes for comps are set properly, they are set so that Route #1, for example, is flashed in an on-site comp by all or most of the entrants. Route #2 is flashed by about 50% of the entrants and Route #3 is flashed by only the top few. Each climber gets 5 minutes to climb the first two and then five minutes rest in between each climb. You fall, you're out of the comp. It is not uncommon for only the top two or three climbers for each gender to reach the top of Route #3. Seeing that the guy's routes are harder, the same number of contestants exists for each gender and about the same number of climbers finishes each route difficulty per gender, maybe it is safe to say that guys do climb harder than gals (I know this flies in the face of my earlier post, but when provided decent data, my mind can be changed). In other words, the routes aren't same but the results are (opposite of routes being the same and results different).

I think because of the structure of comps, they are a reasonable source of data. And yes, I think on-siting a route is more difficult than redpointing, so that counts for something.


jt512


Mar 23, 2007, 6:44 PM
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Most of the disagreement on who is better stems from failure to agree on what "better" means. If you define "better" as "highest grade attained," then men, at the present time, are better climbers than women. End of discussion. This, though, is actually a question of achievement, not talent or athletic ability. If you want to determine which group is biologically capable of climbing better, you have a much more difficult task, because you have to control for many potentially confounding variables such as the size of the populations, geographic distribution, age, length of time in sport, training density, and bias in the difficulty scale, just to name a few that come immediately to mind.

This would be a very difficult question to study experimentally in a democratic country, but actually might have been easy in a country with a highly structured athletic program, like the former Soviet Union. If you could isolate a group of male and female athletes from an early age, give them equivalent climbing training, and follow their progress for say a decade, you could probably draw some objective conclusions about the relative potential of the two groups.

Jay


azrockclimber


Mar 23, 2007, 6:54 PM
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jay....couldn't we draw the same conclusions for rock climbing that have been drawn in other sports where that WAS actually done...ex...gymnastics...or whatever.

Men were always able to perform more difficult feats.. right? I don' think that these proposed tests would produce an unexpected outcome at all. Why, at this point, with all of the information out there, can't we state that men will always be able to perform more difficult feats when strength is a factor in any way.

Does that make sense?


quiteatingmysteak


Mar 23, 2007, 6:56 PM
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When you look at the design of men v women, men (in the human species at least) are the Hunter/Gatherers, while women are designed for endurance labor (Farming, raising children, etc etc). This has been true for thousands of years in almost EVERY culture.

Why than should it be a surprise that the evolution of womens physique is slow to pick up on the physical prowess of men? Save 2 women in the history of climbing, women have NOT climbed at the top end that men have. This also applies to almost any sport you can find in the summer olympics.


It is still too early for there to be the equality in the physical output of the two. Now of course, josune can climb 15a and lynn hill did the nose free before the hubers were working on the salathe, but this is just proving the definition of a GENERALIZATION. A broken clock is right two times a day, people have fallen off 10 story buildings and lived, and a few women have been able to climb at the top level. However it is not enough to justify the statement that "female climbers are as good as males."



let the cliches roll.


highangle


Mar 23, 2007, 7:19 PM
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Better is a slippery term, and it does not appear that anyone has used the same definition in 100+ posts.

While "better" can be defined as "highest grade attained", the question was females vs. males, not females vs. best single male or top 5 males.

Given the original question, my definition of "better" would be the gender that would have the highest success rate at any given grade, wherein the sample of climbers looked at for that grade would be a statistically meaningful number - not just % of females in the top 10 climbers. If the sample were large enough (# of participants and minimum grade level examined, i.e. > 5.13), it should self-correct for things like motivation, age, etc.

Given the independent and unregulated nature of climbing (particularly outdoor climbing) it would be impossible to collect realistic data to prove anything.

At the end of the day, to quote Alex Lowe: "The best climber is the one having the most fun." (ouch - define fun, and how does one resolve "most" !)

Edited to attribute quote.


(This post was edited by highangle on Mar 23, 2007, 8:37 PM)


yanqui


Mar 23, 2007, 7:39 PM
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clausti wrote:
sidepull wrote:

Both crack and clausti bring up great points and the contrast is interesting. I think one important variable that clausti dismissed was age. ...

Also, the idea of plateaus and who is able to break through plateaus more readily is also interesting. While there are some compelling arguments for why women might excel at learning climbing skills I think clausti correctly points out that duration of climbing experience will most likely end up being different for men and women. However, she fails to note that in the harder grades women will be forced to spend more time developing strength and I'd argue that the development curve for women overcoming that plateau is steeper for women.

i didnt dismiss age as a variable. i made it a given that i was dealing with "children and adolescents."

also, i think you are correct about the plataue at harder grades. the *first* plat. is shorter for women, but the .11d/.12a plat is often longer.

When you say 'often' you might be right. Beats me. But I'm personally going for the world's record at 11d/12a plateau time, and I challenge any woman alive to try and take me on this.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Mar 23, 2007, 7:42 PM)


Partner cracklover


Mar 23, 2007, 7:43 PM
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clausti wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...
But on the whole, all seem to hit a plateau at 5.8, another at about 5.9, and a longer one at 5.10. But this often takes a long time - longer than I instructed them, so I don't have enough experience to speak to the issue of how long each of these plateaus lasts for men and women.

GO

out of curiosity, what was the age range for the ymca ppl?

25-35, with a few kids.

In reply to:
In my observations, most ppl who stayed more than a couple of sessions progressed quickly to toproping mid 5.10, and stayed there for a while.

That's very odd to me. Over several years I had some fairly talented folks come through. Those who stayed as long as six months started getting solid at 5.9. I have to wonder about the grade comparison between the places you're referring to and the Y where I taught. I certainly didn't think I sandbagged *that* bad.


In reply to:
The guys got there more quickly than the girls, sometimes in the first session, but stayed there for a long time, some of them never getting the control of their feet to progress.

I don't understand this at all. How can you possibly do a balancy barn-door fighting 5.10 without an elementary understanding of body control and footwork? The only explanation for this is that you're defining difficulty level mostly by steepness. In my gym, difficulty level was defined predominantly by the level of technique required, with power and crimp-strength second and third.

GO


poomasta


Mar 23, 2007, 8:05 PM
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jt512 wrote:
If you want to determine which group is biologically capable of climbing better, you have a much more difficult task, because you have to control for many potentially confounding variables such as the size of the populations, geographic distribution, age, length of time in sport, training density, and bias in the difficulty scale, just to name a few that come immediately to mind.

Not to mention the type of climbing (thin/technical face, steep overhangs, dynamic bouldering, etc) and the "biological" traits that would prove most advantageous. i think it would be fairly easy to find/create routes that cater to each gender's relative biological advantages (e.g. males generally have a greater wingspan, females are generally more flexible). if slab climbing were all the rage these days, do you think there would be much disparity between the sexes?


jt512


Mar 23, 2007, 8:11 PM
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highangle wrote:
Given the original question, my definition of "better" would be the gender that would have the highest success rate at any given grade, wherein the sample of climbers looked at for that grade would be a statistically meaningful number - not just % of females in the top 10 climbers.

What you would do in practice, then, would be to look at the average grade attained by each gender. With reasonable sample sizes and one common statistical assumption, you get the same thing, only a lot simpler.

In reply to:
If the sample were large enough (# of participants and minimum grade level examined, i.e. < 5.13), it should self-correct for things like motivation, age, etc.

That, unfortunately, is not true, especially if the samples are self-selected to any significant degree.

In reply to:
At the end of the day, to paraphrase: The best climber is the one having the most fun.

Not really. I suspect a lot of career moderate long trad climbers have more fun than climbers who have attained high levels of skill. Those in the former group don't have to train or watch their diet. They can "just climb."

Jay


Gmburns2000


Mar 23, 2007, 8:27 PM
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Solving the world's problems two jugs at a time. Now if only someone could figure out how to get the remote to change the channel without me actually pushing the buttons...


suzie_cuzie


Mar 23, 2007, 8:48 PM
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highangle wrote:
An interesting statistical analysis would be to examine the success/fail ratio betwen men & women at the higher levels.

How many women have attempted a 15a, how many attempts at 100% failure vs. men at some unknown % of success?

Since the very highest level would be a limited number of climbs (say anything of 14+), the success ratio would be a reasonable way to determine who is "better."

It is irrelevant to say that men are better because "x men have climbed x grade" and are thus better than women, if no women have actually attempted that grade. Better should not = greater willingness to take risk.

That's a really good point. Probly the most logical and easily quantifiable thing you can check and not have twenty million variables screw it up.


highangle


Mar 23, 2007, 9:21 PM
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Jay - I enjoy the discussion!

Wouldn't the average grade attained by each gender would be skewed by the disparity in the size of the total population of each gender and not take into account societal differences (risk tolerance, etc) in the genders? I would make assumptions that there are 1) more male climbers than female and 2) the majority of male climbers are sub say, 5.11. Thus, the average grade attained by males might actually be skewed lower than would be expected if averaged over the entire climbing population.

In reply to:
In reply to:If the sample were large enough (# of participants and minimum grade level examined, i.e. < 5.13), it should self-correct for things like motivation, age, etc.

That, unfortunately, is not true, especially if the samples are self-selected to any significant degree.

My statement should have been > 5.13. The sample would be self-selected, but at an elite level, and would imply that the athletes are doing some similar things, such as diet, training, etc. While there are some elite athletes that have poor lifestyles but great genetics, those issues should be insignificant in evaluating the stats.

I was paraphrasing Alex Lowe (edited now to reflect that it was a quote)


rock_junkie


Mar 23, 2007, 9:27 PM
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Dude has anyone ever seen Josune in person? She has some manly features to her (Read: Very cut) She didn't strike me as very feminine compared to other burly hardwomen such as Beth


poomasta


Mar 23, 2007, 10:14 PM
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Per Josune's build...yeah, it's pretty redonkulous...it's also very similar to men that are climbing at that level...hmmm. i guess what I'm getting at is the type of routes she's been tearin' up *might* demand a certain physical build that is not often seen in women. Beth's hardest climbs aren't notorious for their powerful movement are they? (seriously, i'm asking ;-)


randomjive


Mar 23, 2007, 10:37 PM
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So, I know I've already posted on this, and I didn't give my scientific input into it and I'm still not, but I thought I'd give more of my thoughts because I'm not trying to fight on any side of the argument and I don't intend to if it sounds like it. I enjoy climbing with everyone, better or worse. I like giving advice to people who are having trouble with problems/routes that I used to have trouble with and also greatly appreciate advice and encouragement from those better than me. There are girls better than me and there are guys better than me. There are guys who are better than me but have horrible form and girls who can't climb what I can but have great form. I can climb some routes better than other people because I'm six-feet tall, but I can't even finish some because my fat-ass is 200 pounds. I am reading this forum because it was on the rockclimbing.com homepage. You have to hand it to the people who want to actually find the scientific answer to this, because if they ever did come out with actual solid answers, that'd be cool, but in my honest opinion it will probably never happen. But I'll tell you what I love about women and climbing. There will be hot women climbing, by God, let there always be hot women climbing. At the gym, there will be hot women climbing in shorts and spandex, asking me for help, and I would obviously give them advice, or a belay from a nice view below them. Also, when hot girls are climbing, I climb better. I don't want to look like a total ass in front of these girls I just gave advice to. I will completely encourage women to climb, especially the ones that wear those spandex shorts, and I will say hell yes, you can climb as well as me, just keep climbing. You just never know... I know some people have said what I've already said, but I don't care. and you can say whatever you want about me, I don't care. Sorry girls if these statements offend you, but hey, I want you to climb on! I don't really have a final ending point for what I'm thinking but what I do imagine is my next climbing trip, sittin around the fire with my guy friends and girl friends, no sausage fest, no no no. And it shall be glorious.


clausti


Mar 23, 2007, 11:06 PM
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cracklover wrote:
In reply to:
The guys got there more quickly than the girls, sometimes in the first session, but stayed there for a long time, some of them never getting the control of their feet to progress.

I don't understand this at all. How can you possibly do a balancy barn-door fighting 5.10 without an elementary understanding of body control and footwork?

well obviously you cant- but there are a lot of ways to have a route graded 5.10 without a barn door!


jt512


Mar 23, 2007, 11:24 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Solving the world's problems two jugs at a time.

Tell that to Dr. Yoho.

Jay


jt512


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highangle wrote:
Wouldn't the average grade attained by each gender would be skewed by the disparity in the size of the total population of each gender...

No. The actual populations of male and female climbers are large enough that they can be considered infinite. Thus the expected means of the populations would not be affected by the actual size of the populations.

In reply to:
...and not take into account societal differences (risk tolerance, etc) in the genders?

This is potentially a concern that I hinted at under the headings of "differences in motivation" and "geographical distribution." Simple random sampling of the male and female populations will not control for factors such as these. Instead, the investigator has to decide whether to control for them using other methods, or to allow them to play whatever role they "naturally" do in determining the climbing levels attained by each gender. The decision depends on how you define "inherently better."

In reply to:
I would make assumptions that there are 1) more male climbers than female and 2) the majority of male climbers are sub say, 5.11. Thus, the average grade attained by males might actually be skewed lower than would be expected if averaged over the entire climbing population.

As I explained earlier, the relative sizes of the populations are irrelevant, and if the proportion of sub-5.11 climbers is greater among males than females, well, that's basically the kind of question that the study is designed to determine.

In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
If the sample were large enough (# of participants and minimum grade level examined, i.e. < 5.13), it should self-correct for things like motivation, age, etc.

That, unfortunately, is not true, especially if the samples are self-selected to any significant degree.

My statement should have been > 5.13.

If the samples were self-selected groups of > 5.13 male and female climbers, then I do not understand how your study would be designed to determine which group were better climbers. I'm trying to imagine what your hypothesis would be: Among self-selected elite climbers, who are "better," males or females?

In reply to:
The sample would be self-selected, but at an elite level, and would imply that the athletes are doing some similar things, such as diet, training, etc.

No, it would not imply that. If one group of climbers was genetically more gifted than the other, then that group of climbers might be less well trained than the other group. That said, I still don't know what you're going to do with, or observe about, these elite climbers once you've got them.

In reply to:
I was paraphrasing Alex Lowe

Oh, I know. We all know.

Jay


dirtme


Mar 24, 2007, 5:46 AM
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Why don't we eliminate all women professional sports and make everything co-ed? I would imagine that would put things in perspective. You get the most competitive men and women climbing the same routes and see who ends up on top, sorta speak.


climbsomething


Mar 24, 2007, 6:53 AM
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randomjive wrote:
You have to hand it to the people who want to actually find the scientific answer to this, because if they ever did come out with actual solid answers, that'd be cool, but in my honest opinion it will probably never happen.
And if it did, there'd be some hurt feelings.

So let's just let people fall back on quibbling over relatively objective high grade achivements versus subjective "who climbs more pretty" matters of technique so that the answer can be whatever makes the individual feel better.

The best cliche is the one that's having the most fun!


Gmburns2000


Mar 24, 2007, 12:15 PM
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jt512 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
Solving the world's problems two jugs at a time.

Tell that to Dr. Yoho.

Jay

Am I going to regret not knowing who Dr. Yoho is?Unimpressed


climbsomething


Mar 24, 2007, 10:08 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
Solving the world's problems two jugs at a time.

Tell that to Dr. Yoho.

Jay

Am I going to regret not knowing who Dr. Yoho is?Unimpressed
heheh.

I know who he is by reputation, but I clearly haven't had any first-hand experience with his expertise.

(*whispers loduly* he builds fake boobies)


thomasribiere


Mar 24, 2007, 10:17 PM
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Laugh self derision at its best!


JRenee


Mar 26, 2007, 10:07 PM
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What a stupid thread. Don't you have anything better to do that to start a battle between the sexes/egos on a rock climbing board?

Unimpressed


kellie


Mar 27, 2007, 8:21 PM
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Even defining "good" as "hard grades" is a bit of a problem, becuase there will always be those who will argue that, say, a VI 5.9 A2 WI4+ 2400m ascent in the Alaska Range is harder than a 30m 5.14 at Smith Rock. Clearly these folks are delusional, but they're out there.


sidepull


Mar 27, 2007, 8:33 PM
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randomjive wrote:
So, I know I've already posted on this, and I didn't give my scientific input into it and I'm still not, but I thought I'd give more of my thoughts because I'm not trying to fight on any side of the argument and I don't intend to if it sounds like it. I enjoy climbing with everyone, better or worse. I like giving advice to people who are having trouble with problems/routes that I used to have trouble with and also greatly appreciate advice and encouragement from those better than me. There are girls better than me and there are guys better than me. There are guys who are better than me but have horrible form and girls who can't climb what I can but have great form. I can climb some routes better than other people because I'm six-feet tall, but I can't even finish some because my fat-ass is 200 pounds. I am reading this forum because it was on the rockclimbing.com homepage. You have to hand it to the people who want to actually find the scientific answer to this, because if they ever did come out with actual solid answers, that'd be cool, but in my honest opinion it will probably never happen. But I'll tell you what I love about women and climbing. There will be hot women climbing, by God, let there always be hot women climbing. At the gym, there will be hot women climbing in shorts and spandex, asking me for help, and I would obviously give them advice, or a belay from a nice view below them. Also, when hot girls are climbing, I climb better. I don't want to look like a total ass in front of these girls I just gave advice to. I will completely encourage women to climb, especially the ones that wear those spandex shorts, and I will say hell yes, you can climb as well as me, just keep climbing. You just never know... I know some people have said what I've already said, but I don't care. and you can say whatever you want about me, I don't care. Sorry girls if these statements offend you, but hey, I want you to climb on! I don't really have a final ending point for what I'm thinking but what I do imagine is my next climbing trip, sittin around the fire with my guy friends and girl friends, no sausage fest, no no no. And it shall be glorious.

Prime example of why it's a bad idea to post while aroused.


schveety


Mar 27, 2007, 8:56 PM
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Ahhh, sidepull, thank you for quoting that post........ I had a good chuckle over it........ You people never cease to amuse me........


devilstower10


Mar 28, 2007, 2:30 AM
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   Shocked Ok, this is just insulting! Have any of you ever heard of LYNN HILL?! She is one, yes, SHE, is/was one of the best climbers of all time. She is only five foot or five foot one, and she also free climbed the nose of El Cap. Women are just as capable of what men can do.Mad


AlpineLogistics


Mar 29, 2007, 7:23 AM
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Men and women both have strenghts and weaknesses when it comes to climbing...women tend to be better and certain styles of climbing and men at others.

I've always thought that the top climbers are those who are able to adopt the best characteristics of both sexes.

However when it comes to absolute difficulty at world class levels I think it's unlikely that the best climber in the world will ever be a woman...becasue we just don't have the capacity to gain the same levels of physical strength.

But....there are lots of things which go to making up a good climber and strength is only a part of it...many a woman can outclimb a man who is physically a lot stronger but perhaps lacks the footwork of mental component...

For most of us there will always be someone better at climbing...doesn't really matter whether its a man or a woman.

At the end of the day it's not about comparing yourself to others, at least not for me...more about having fun and reaching my own personal potential.


crazygirl


Mar 30, 2007, 8:31 PM
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one of the new studies has indicated that men are generally stronger than women


crazygirl


Mar 30, 2007, 8:32 PM
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crazygirl wrote:
one of the new studies has indicated that men are generally stronger than women

and i dont think they were talking about climbing.


Gmburns2000


Mar 30, 2007, 9:05 PM
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sidepull wrote:
randomjive wrote:
So, I know I've already posted on this, and I didn't give my scientific input into it and I'm still not, but I thought I'd give more of my thoughts because I'm not trying to fight on any side of the argument and I don't intend to if it sounds like it. I enjoy climbing with everyone, better or worse. I like giving advice to people who are having trouble with problems/routes that I used to have trouble with and also greatly appreciate advice and encouragement from those better than me. There are girls better than me and there are guys better than me. There are guys who are better than me but have horrible form and girls who can't climb what I can but have great form. I can climb some routes better than other people because I'm six-feet tall, but I can't even finish some because my fat-ass is 200 pounds. I am reading this forum because it was on the rockclimbing.com homepage. You have to hand it to the people who want to actually find the scientific answer to this, because if they ever did come out with actual solid answers, that'd be cool, but in my honest opinion it will probably never happen. But I'll tell you what I love about women and climbing. There will be hot women climbing, by God, let there always be hot women climbing. At the gym, there will be hot women climbing in shorts and spandex, asking me for help, and I would obviously give them advice, or a belay from a nice view below them. Also, when hot girls are climbing, I climb better. I don't want to look like a total ass in front of these girls I just gave advice to. I will completely encourage women to climb, especially the ones that wear those spandex shorts, and I will say hell yes, you can climb as well as me, just keep climbing. You just never know... I know some people have said what I've already said, but I don't care. and you can say whatever you want about me, I don't care. Sorry girls if these statements offend you, but hey, I want you to climb on! I don't really have a final ending point for what I'm thinking but what I do imagine is my next climbing trip, sittin around the fire with my guy friends and girl friends, no sausage fest, no no no. And it shall be glorious.

Prime example of why it's a bad idea to post while aroused.

Is there a Posting Hall of Fame thread somewhere? This has to be nominated. I don't think anyone can realistically disagree with this. Even women, if this were flipped around, would see some truth in there. Great post. Didn't see it before. Wish I had.


miavzero


Mar 30, 2007, 10:01 PM
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devilstower10 wrote:
Shocked Ok, this is just insulting! Have any of you ever heard of LYNN HILL?! She is one, yes, SHE, is/was one of the best climbers of all time. She is only five foot or five foot one, and she also free climbed the nose of El Cap. Women are just as capable of what men can do.Mad
Yes, but did Lynn free the Nose AND Half Dome in a day?Wink

Look at me, arguing with a ten year old.


stymingersfink


Mar 31, 2007, 12:53 AM
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joshy8200 wrote:
"Well there was this one feat that no male climber has ever accomplished..."
what male has ever given birth, climber or not? Tongue


the_chris


Mar 31, 2007, 4:10 AM
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Women are just as good as men, climbing is not all about brute force, but technique.


miavzero


Mar 31, 2007, 4:16 AM
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and feel-good clichesCrazy


billcoe_


Mar 31, 2007, 4:38 AM
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JRenee wrote:
What a stupid thread. Don't you have anything better to do that to start a battle between the sexes/egos on a rock climbing board?

Unimpressed

Yes, very interesting: it has been further determined that after years of studies, that men in fact have larger penis's than most women.


PIT0N


Jul 8, 2007, 5:54 AM
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actually, let me take that back... you should see some of these skanks I see up on the cliffs... I gotta tell you. I don't know what I was thinking. you girls are maybe good enough to carry my ropes and help me chop bolts. Maybe I'll let you carry my wrench wench.


medicus


Jul 8, 2007, 8:31 AM
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PIT0N wrote:
actually, let me take that back... you should see some of these skanks I see up on the cliffs... I gotta tell you. I don't know what I was thinking. you girls are maybe good enough to carry my ropes and help me chop bolts. Maybe I'll let you carry my wrench wench.
Crazy


(This post was edited by medicus on Jul 8, 2007, 8:47 AM)


reno


Jul 8, 2007, 5:12 PM
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anykineclimb wrote:
I know one thing for sure.

There will ALWAYS be a woman climbing stonger than me.

You and me both, brother.

In reply to:
does it matter?
Do I care??

No and no, respectively.


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