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knieveltech
Jun 17, 2007, 1:18 AM
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C'mon folks, I'm sure everyone has at least one manky anchor story, so break out the photos and war stories and post up! My contribution:
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sparky
Jun 17, 2007, 2:18 AM
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The first pic was a fantastic homemade hanger, with a quality bolt, the hanger can't be clipped, you have to thread it with webbing.
The second pic is a pile of rocks for a 150' rap.
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Zion.5.28-1-1 133 (Small).jpg
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climbinwv
Jun 17, 2007, 2:20 AM
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This is a story from another post I did...kinda scary...
I was @ coopers rock and was gonna set up on zig-zag wanderer 5.8 as my wife had yet to climb it. Zig-Zag is in an area known as big blocks. It is only accessable via a 5.2-5.3 25ft. scramble. The route we were gonna climb was close to the nightmare scenario. I am talking to these people from Pittsburgh and they tell me they are gonna break down and do I have any advice on how to get off the top of the blocks (you gotta rapel off a tree that almost leans up against the blocks). I offered to break down for them if i could hop on their rope and breeze through the 5.6 they were set up on and I had climbed a hundred times. They didn't look like nOObs....so I get to the top and see.........HOLY SHIT!!!!! I had just trusted my life to the following.
1. The previously mentioned biner chain which was a figure 8 knot hooked into one end. The knot was on the back of the tree and the biners wraped around and clipped onto the rope on the other side.
2. The static line the biner was hooked into ran over to the edge where they had an overhand knot on non-lockin biner as the anchor. THAT'S RIGHT...ONE ANCHOR...I couldn't see it from the ground...I assumed there was a back up...i was wrong.
3. I unclipped it and tossed the whole mess to the ground...the biners hit a rock and the one guy shot me a dirty look...like a biner is gonna get f-ed up from falling 40ft.
The worst part is I couldn't say anything to them...I was sooooo pissed I just proceded to set up my anchors as they walked off into the distance. I know I shoulda torn them a new one. I also am pissed because I had my camera in my bag and didn't take a picture of it....I mean it woulda made one hell of a thread on here.
I climb @ coopers a lot. I usually can spot a nOOb a mile away(we get lot's of them). These guys (2dudes, 1chick) looked like they knew what they were doing...I got f-ing lucky....I'm down to 7 lives now (if you read my cinch vs. grigri thread you know why). I gotta be more careful....we all do. 
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jrzacher
Jun 17, 2007, 2:47 AM
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this is a chain that was jammed into a crack and some tat around a horn
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unreleasedenergy
Jun 17, 2007, 3:52 AM
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some reposts.
my favorite personal experience would either be some 60 year old ring angle pitons at seneca or the piton pounded into a tree...
(Edited for new embed source)
(This post was edited by unreleasedenergy on Jun 17, 2007, 7:50 PM)
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kobaz
Jun 17, 2007, 6:01 PM
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unreleasedenergy wrote: some reposts. my favorite personal experience would either be some 60 year old ring angle pitons at seneca or the piton pounded into a tree...
Those images only load when I do a direct load of the target (ie: right click -> view image) or click the link.
I don't see any pitons other than the lost arrow, those looks like manky old 1/4 inch bolts with manky homemade hangers. Total mank!
(This post was edited by kobaz on Jun 17, 2007, 6:05 PM)
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unreleasedenergy
Jun 17, 2007, 7:22 PM
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unfortunately I don't have any photo's of the pins, or anchors from seneca, I really should take some, there are some really manky looking ones.
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jeff_m
Jun 17, 2007, 9:48 PM
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A little more subtle, but this one has character (or at least it was character building when I came across it)....
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snoopy138
Jun 17, 2007, 9:56 PM
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jeff_m wrote: A little more subtle, but this one has character (or at least it was character building when I came across it).... [image]http://www.citycg.com/DSCN8913.jpg[/image]
location?
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knieveltech
Jun 17, 2007, 9:57 PM
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Holy crap! In the third pic down, is that a damn engine valve that's been hammered into the rock??
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majid_sabet
Jun 17, 2007, 11:20 PM
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One of the main reasons on why I like RC is the ability to collect photos like these.
Thanks for posting them.
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hosh
Jun 18, 2007, 12:53 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: One of the main reasons on why I like RC is the ability to collect photos like these. Thanks for posting them.
So you can repost them to scare n00bs and pretend that all anchors that climbers use look like that? Cool. real cool.
hosh.
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knieveltech
Jun 18, 2007, 5:22 AM
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hosh wrote: majid_sabet wrote: One of the main reasons on why I like RC is the ability to collect photos like these. Thanks for posting them. So you can repost them to scare n00bs and pretend that all anchors that climbers use look like that? Cool. real cool. hosh.
We appreciate your attempts to keep Majid in check, however it's widely known that when he decides to be a toolbox there's really nothing that will stop him. That being said, would you like to share a war story about encountering true mank in the wild?
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jakedatc
Jun 18, 2007, 5:36 AM
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majid_sabet
Jun 18, 2007, 5:58 AM
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hosh wrote: majid_sabet wrote: One of the main reasons on why I like RC is the ability to collect photos like these. Thanks for posting them. So you can repost them to scare n00bs and pretend that all anchors that climbers use look like that? Cool. real cool. hosh.
it is safer and much better to scare bunch of n00bs then trying to collect their parts to fit in to a body bag.
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carabiner96
Jun 18, 2007, 2:51 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: hosh wrote: majid_sabet wrote: One of the main reasons on why I like RC is the ability to collect photos like these. Thanks for posting them. So you can repost them to scare n00bs and pretend that all anchors that climbers use look like that? Cool. real cool. hosh. it is safer and much better to scare bunch of n00bs then trying to collect their parts to fit in to a body bag.
Wow. That's a new low. "Make like a tree and fuck off!"
(This post was edited by carabiner96 on Jun 18, 2007, 2:52 PM)
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binrat
Jun 18, 2007, 4:02 PM
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jeff_m wrote: A little more subtle, but this one has character (or at least it was character building when I came across it).... [image]http://www.citycg.com/DSCN8913.jpg[/image]
That's a quick link that you are suppose to weld to finish it.
Binrat
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jeff_m
Jun 18, 2007, 4:19 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: jeff_m wrote: A little more subtle, but this one has character (or at least it was character building when I came across it).... [image]http://www.citycg.com/DSCN8913.jpg[/image] location?
North, and long since turned to dust.
binrat wrote: That's a quick link that you are suppose to weld to finish it.
Yeah, I know, but it's been a while since I've welded on lead... 
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binrat
Jun 18, 2007, 5:06 PM
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Yeah, I know, but it's been a while since I've welded on lead...
Too Too funny.
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justthemaid
Jun 18, 2007, 5:09 PM
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LOL ^^^
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richardvg03
Jun 18, 2007, 5:42 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: it is safer and much better to scare bunch of n00bs then trying to collect their parts to fit in to a body bag.
and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story.
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knieveltech
Jun 18, 2007, 5:51 PM
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reno wrote: jakedatc wrote: [image]http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4742/pict0062sc4.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/smiley_10sign.gif[/image] [image]http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/smiley_10sign.gif[/image] [image]http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/smiley_10sign.gif[/image]
Dang, looks like Reno's in the know on this one. I've got to go with Microbarn on this one, what are we looking at here?
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reno
Jun 18, 2007, 5:56 PM
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richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story.
I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance.
Drunk kid (early 20's and bullet-proof, as such young kids are prone to be,) got on the freeway going the wrong way. His 80+ miles and hour met up came face-to-face with a Ford pickup going the other way, doing somewhere closer to the speed limit (55.)
Outside mirror of truck clipped kid's shoulder, and severed his arm. Kid lost it, slid, and head-first into median wall (no helmet = dead instantly.)
Me, my partner, several cops, and four firefighters spent an hour or so combing through the roadside brush, looking for that kid's arm.
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unreleasedenergy
Jun 18, 2007, 6:11 PM
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looks like a plastic bottle stuffed with webbing. the webbing apears to be tied in a loop
and reinforced.
if i didn't know any better, i'd think your advocating the plastic bottle chokestone trick.
however, i don't think that bottle could handle quite the same forces a nalgene would without deforming.
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fitzontherocks
Jun 18, 2007, 6:19 PM
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reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story. I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance.
I think he was talking about the climbing realm.
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richardvg03
Jun 18, 2007, 8:43 PM
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reno wrote: Me, my partner, several cops, and four firefighters spent an hour or so combing through the roadside brush, looking for that kid's arm.
ever find it?
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reno
Jun 18, 2007, 9:44 PM
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fitzontherocks wrote: reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story. I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance. I think he was talking about the climbing realm.
Well, yeah, but RC.com has a history of thread drift. I'm just trying to keep it real. Yo.
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fitzontherocks
Jun 18, 2007, 9:58 PM
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reno wrote: fitzontherocks wrote: reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story. I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance. I think he was talking about the climbing realm. Well, yeah, but RC.com has a history of thread drift. I'm just trying to keep it real. Yo.
And you're a moderator? (wink icon here, if I knew how to insert one)
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reno
Jun 18, 2007, 10:01 PM
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richardvg03 wrote: ever find it?
Yep. Pretty nasty looking, too.
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jakedatc
Jun 18, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Jeesh.. you guys gotta keep up with EVERY thread on here ;) at least Reno got it...
the bottle is Majid's miracle in a bottle that will save every dumbass hiker who tries to solo something over their head and gets stuck.. (while carrying their backpack that miraculously contains this miracle bottle o' webbing that will only reach 15m single use or 7.5m doubled up for retrieval)
manktastic
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el_layclimber
Jun 19, 2007, 4:23 AM
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jakedatc wrote: the bottle is Majid's miracle in a bottle that will save every dumbass hiker who tries to solo something over their head and gets stuck.. (while carrying their backpack that miraculously contains this miracle bottle o' webbing that will only reach 15m single use or 7.5m doubled up for retrieval) manktastic
Very Hardy boys/Nancy Drew. Does the bottle also have a lemon bar and a couple of roast beef sandwiches in it?
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jakedatc
Jun 19, 2007, 4:28 AM
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One would only use Roast beef if they had a death wish.. DinoJesus knows you can't do jack shit with roast beef.. now a nice thick ham sammich.. now you're talkin about surviving and going all chuck norris on that 4th class pile of choss
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 19, 2007, 6:08 AM
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I'll take my camera next time i do anything on Tahquitz.
"Wow! The first ascent of this line was in 1947! Neat! And look, here is his favorite bottle opener that was dropped into the top of the chimney, and now has become 'fixed' by the masses! Treasure of a relic, get me my sling."
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richardvg03
Jun 19, 2007, 2:41 PM
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haha I had a suicide bombers foot land on my HMMWV... me and my buddies plaid catch with it...
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saphius
Jun 19, 2007, 3:51 PM
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richardvg03 wrote: haha I had a suicide bombers foot land on my HMMWV... me and my buddies plaid catch with it...
*blink*
Good to see you had fun over there. Uh... with... dead people.
Anyone else find that disturbing? I hope no non-Americans saw you. They might think you were being cold, heartless, and... sick/odd?
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knieveltech
Jun 19, 2007, 3:53 PM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: I'll take my camera next time i do anything on Tahquitz. "Wow! The first ascent of this line was in 1947! Neat! And look, here is his favorite bottle opener that was dropped into the top of the chimney, and now has become 'fixed' by the masses! Treasure of a relic, get me my sling."
Haha bottle opener as fixed pro, there's a classic shot. I remember someone mentioned accidentally fixing a hammer in a crack (can't remember what area/route) and I've been hoping someone'll post up a pic. Also I'm surprised Angry's nalgene chockstone hasn't been mentioned by now.
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reg
Jun 19, 2007, 3:59 PM
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el_layclimber wrote: jakedatc wrote: the bottle is Majid's miracle in a bottle that will save every dumbass hiker who tries to solo something over their head and gets stuck.. (while carrying their backpack that miraculously contains this miracle bottle o' webbing that will only reach 15m single use or 7.5m doubled up for retrieval) manktastic Very Hardy boys/Nancy Drew. Does the bottle also have a lemon bar and a couple of roast beef sandwiches in it?
ummm...they should be "ham sammiches"
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reno
Jun 19, 2007, 4:46 PM
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reg wrote: el_layclimber wrote: Very Hardy boys/Nancy Drew. Does the bottle also have a lemon bar and a couple of roast beef sandwiches in it? ummm...they should be "ham sammiches"
As a trad climber, it's good to be well-rounded. Never know when you're going to get stuck on some 12 pitch 5.9 trad route in an Islamic country, for example.
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j_ung
Jun 19, 2007, 6:15 PM
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Sweet! More manchors! I went ahead and moved these over from the other thread.
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caughtinside
Jun 19, 2007, 6:28 PM
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here is a typical thailand set up:
good titanium glue in on the left, rusty mammut ring bolt I slung for laffs, and a stainless steel petzl glue in on the right. The petzl SS glue ins have failed in lead falls in thai limestone, no good way to make sure they're safe.
Another real concern is the anchor rigging. That's a chopped up, bleached out piece of lead line. Probably bomber. But definitely exposed to tremendous amounts of salt air and tropical UV exposure.
And see that arm of the rope heading out right? It was backing itself up... with this!
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granite_grrl
Jun 19, 2007, 6:36 PM
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Took this from Tradrenn's profile:
I believe this is from his trip to Mexico.
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psprings
Jun 19, 2007, 6:36 PM
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I wish I had pictures of the worst bolts ever... but I was on lead and my followers were both too freaked to stop and take pictures.
Honeymoon chimney.
P1. Old 5/8 angle half way out of the sandstone... real fun when the only other pro is a big bro that only gives moderate confidence...
P3. "Bolt ladder" I was planning on leading this at 11a until I actually saw the bolts... it was scary as hell to even A0 on them!!! The single 3/8 metolius bolt, the only non-1/4" button-head, non-protruding angle... well, the hanger spun. Eh, might as well try wiggling the actual bolt, I say. Holy crap, it's actually loose!!! Well, if you have a wrench with you, try to tighten it... not sure if it wasn't torqued down, but a bolt wiggling is scary! Then, to finish of P3, after the "bolt ladder", you do a traverse (~10 ft), followed by a little 5.8 move... totally unprotected except for a old 1/4" expansion bolt that is 3/4 of the way pulled out!!! I would have loved a picture of that one! Thank goodness that one move after that there was a bomber blue tcu placement!!! Nerve-wracking to pull that move after 10 ft of unprotected traverse, though.
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fulton
Jun 19, 2007, 6:48 PM
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Yo Yo Yo,
Check out the bolt-hanger on the right hand-side of this image.
The reason I'm interested is because I had never seen a hanger that looked like that until I moved to Montana, but since then, I have seen dozens of these aluminum looking hangers
AND (now comes my point..) have always wondered, if they are homemade or a commercially produced model. Anyone know one way or another.
I generally see them on climbs that were established in the mid-late 80s (?)
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the_climber
Jun 19, 2007, 9:25 PM
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fulton wrote: The reason I'm interested is because I had never seen a hanger that looked like that until I moved to Montana, but since then, I have seen dozens of these aluminum looking hangers AND (now comes my point..) have always wondered, if they are homemade or a commercially produced model. Anyone know one way or another. I generally see them on climbs that were established in the mid-late 80s (?)
Home made from Angle-Al
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the_climber
Jun 19, 2007, 9:26 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: Took this from Tradrenn's profile: I believe this is from his trip to Mexico.
Um, I guess the "Don't bolt within 6 inches of a crack" was lost in the translation, eh.
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billcoe_
Jun 20, 2007, 4:16 AM
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fulton wrote: Yo Yo Yo, Check out the bolt-hanger on the right hand-side of this image. [image]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/6299Caldwell_Anchor.JPG[/image] The reason I'm interested is because I had never seen a hanger that looked like that until I moved to Montana, but since then, I have seen dozens of these aluminum looking hangers AND (now comes my point..) have always wondered, if they are homemade or a commercially produced model. Anyone know one way or another. I generally see them on climbs that were established in the mid-late 80s (?)
Dean Caldwell of Wall of the Early Morning Light on El Cap fame (and possibly Kim Schmitz) put that in at Beacon Rock in Washington state. Probably in the 70's. It was still in use (abiet rarely as the webbing indicates) until 2006 when Joseph Healy did some extensive anchor replacement work out there (like damn near everyone, and I think there were some worse than this). These typically are homeade hangers easily made from cutting and drilling chanel stock.
This is his pic and he can describe it better than me, however, as I understand it, these bolts are there no more. He did leave some in at various places for historical value, these may have been left, I'm not positive about that, but if they were left, they would not have been part of a working anchor.
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colotopian
Jun 20, 2007, 4:22 AM
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This one was a little rusty...
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winglessangel
Jun 20, 2007, 7:16 PM
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thirsty? open your bottle here!!
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j_ung
Jun 20, 2007, 9:03 PM
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winglessangel
Jun 20, 2007, 9:11 PM
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j_ung wrote: <alien image>
AHHAAHHAHAHAAHAH
the best, I mean, the worst
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coastal_climber
Jun 20, 2007, 9:21 PM
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winglessangel wrote: j_ung wrote: <alien image> AHHAAHHAHAHAAHAH the best, I mean, the worst
Uhhh, now your going to get it...
>Cam
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medicus
Jun 20, 2007, 9:36 PM
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Brilliant! I started laughing so loudly that I got odd stares from the family.
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el_layclimber
Jun 20, 2007, 9:55 PM
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Jesus, Aliens is finished, aren't they? Never mind the lawsuit, when your gear gets more laughs than a rusted-out bottle opener as bolt hanger, you may as well start filing for bankruptcy.
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the_climber
Jun 20, 2007, 9:59 PM
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File for bankruptcy... if their "timely responce" to things is any indication, well... I would susspect they'll get right on that...
In a year or ten.
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pjdf
Jun 21, 2007, 12:06 AM
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j_ung wrote: [image]http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/images/cch_Aliens.jpg[/image]
TROPHY!!!
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tallmark515
Jun 21, 2007, 1:15 AM
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LOL! Clever!
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j_ung
Jun 21, 2007, 12:46 PM
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Thanks, thanks... I'm here all week. Shows at 7 and 11. Try the veat.
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winglessangel
Jun 21, 2007, 2:03 PM
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el_layclimber wrote: Jesus, Aliens is finished, aren't they? Never mind the lawsuit, when your gear gets more laughs than a rusted-out bottle opener as bolt hanger, you may as well start filing for bankruptcy.
Those bottle openers were placed in the 60's or 70's.
There are 3 of them, people say that the FA party ran out of bolts and used what they had.
but there are regular bolts after them and the big question is would they take THREE bottle openers to the wall? So I think they planned it out.
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el_layclimber
Jun 21, 2007, 2:56 PM
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I've read that Fred Beckey used to buy old silk ties at thrift stores to use for aid. I would poop my pants if I were a few pitches up an A2 and came upon a ratty argyle tie.
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j_ung
Jun 21, 2007, 2:58 PM
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winglessangel wrote: el_layclimber wrote: Jesus, Aliens is finished, aren't they? Never mind the lawsuit, when your gear gets more laughs than a rusted-out bottle opener as bolt hanger, you may as well start filing for bankruptcy. Those bottle openers were placed in the 60's or 70's. There are 3 of them, people say that the FA party ran out of bolts and used what they had. but there are regular bolts after them and the big question is would they take THREE bottle openers to the wall? So I think they planned it out.
Are there stances at the bottle openers but not at the other bolts? If so, I have a theory.
(I also have a more serious theory, namely that the route is rap bolted... er... rap openered.)
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winglessangel
Jun 21, 2007, 3:45 PM
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el_layclimber wrote: I've read that Fred Beckey used to buy old silk ties at thrift stores to use for aid. I would poop my pants if I were a few pitches up an A2 and came upon a ratty argyle tie.
Ohh, you don't wanna get me started on how Brazilians would climb back in the 60's/70's (and even 80's)
I wasn't born back then, but what I've heard...
everything was homemade, the safest thing they used was harness made out of seat belts.
just picture, 3rd world country before the globalization boom where very few people even knew what rock climbing was. For most people climbing was just alpine like they saw on movies, with crampons and piolet.
In fact first ROCK climbers around here would attach nails to the bottom of there shoes!!!
to add.
A. P. Faria, local old school climber, once wrote an article to Climbing magazine telling all about. They didn't publish because the didn't believe it.
(This post was edited by winglessangel on Jun 21, 2007, 3:48 PM)
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TradEddie
Jun 21, 2007, 5:24 PM
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Can anyone tell me what that third pic from the bottom of J_ung’s post is, the one that looks like a super thick old style aluminum pull tab? I clipped something exactly like that just for giggles once, placed my own piece, climbed 10 ft and fell, pulled my own gear but the ring held! Low FF fall, but for something placed 30 years earlier for an aid FA, not too shabby at all.
TE
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knieveltech
Jun 21, 2007, 8:36 PM
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winglessangel wrote: thirsty? open your bottle here!! [image]http://www.niclevicz.com.br/images/fotos/foto_6_299_3g.jpg[/image]
Incredible! All hangers should be designed with similar features. Where is that??
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winglessangel
Jun 22, 2007, 12:19 PM
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Rio de Janerio,
Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loaf)
North face
the route is either Íbis or Contra Pino. Not sure cause I didn't climb there, I got the picture because the topic was on a local forum a while ago.
That is why I can't answer J_ung's post as well.
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svilnit
Jun 22, 2007, 1:17 PM
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reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: ever find it? Yep. Pretty nasty looking, too.
Thanks Reno... just bought a bike yesterday. Feeling good about it now! That, and I was eating lunch while reading this.
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reno
Jun 22, 2007, 4:31 PM
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svilnit wrote: reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: ever find it? Yep. Pretty nasty looking, too. Thanks Reno... just bought a bike yesterday. Feeling good about it now! That, and I was eating lunch while reading this.
Well, motorcycles can be safe.... as long as you don't get on the highway going the wrong direction, drunk, at oh-dark-thirty.
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robbovius
Jun 22, 2007, 5:23 PM
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svilnit wrote: reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: ever find it? Yep. Pretty nasty looking, too. Thanks Reno... just bought a bike yesterday. Feeling good about it now! That, and I was eating lunch while reading this.
what are you upset about? it's not YOUR arm...
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 22, 2007, 5:23 PM
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This tat was at the top of a pretty knarly WI4+ M4 ish Ice climb. I installed a bolted belay there last winter. hope the local morons dont chop it in favor of the dead bushes and old rotton Cord.....
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Attachments:
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IMG_0248.jpg
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altelis
Jun 22, 2007, 8:10 PM
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ya, i've done a fair amount of ice in maine and nh and, well, thats a pretty common practice----though most of the time the cord and bush (usually shrubbery/tree) are a little beefier.....
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shrug7
Jun 22, 2007, 8:29 PM
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knieveltech wrote: winglessangel wrote: thirsty? open your bottle here!! [image]http://www.niclevicz.com.br/images/fotos/foto_6_299_3g.jpg[/image] Incredible! All hangers should be designed with similar features. Where is that??
Why not just use a cleaning tool? 
though you can open a bottle with a modern day anchor..just not recommended...
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knieveltech
Jun 22, 2007, 10:38 PM
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shrug7 wrote: knieveltech wrote: winglessangel wrote: thirsty? open your bottle here!! [image]http://www.niclevicz.com.br/images/fotos/foto_6_299_3g.jpg[/image] Incredible! All hangers should be designed with similar features. Where is that?? Why not just use a cleaning tool? though you can open a bottle with a modern day anchor..just not recommended...
The cleaning tool is an outstanding idea, but what if you drop it? Also, what if you're on a sport route? There's at least two highly plausible scenarios where having a bottle opener hanger would potentially be critical to the success of the mission. This is serious stuff man.
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knieveltech
Jun 28, 2007, 7:05 PM
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microbarn
Jun 28, 2007, 7:11 PM
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that is some cool looking rock!
location???
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knieveltech
Jun 28, 2007, 7:13 PM
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microbarn wrote: that is some cool looking rock! location???
That it definitely is. Given the URL for the image is
http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/intro/0012x.jpg I'd have to assume it's somewhere in Utah but couldn't say for sure, I didn't take the photo.
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salamanizer
Jun 29, 2007, 6:19 AM
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I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough".
Someone should definately replace it ASAP though.
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knieveltech
Jun 29, 2007, 1:37 PM
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salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though.
RIP
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salamanizer
Jun 29, 2007, 8:19 PM
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knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP
What is that,
Rapping on
Inadequate
Protection?
You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"
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knieveltech
Jun 29, 2007, 9:08 PM
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salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"
True dat. Personally I'd pluck the damned thing out, clip it to my harness, then find something totally unrelated to rap off of.
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ja1484
Jun 29, 2007, 9:22 PM
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knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"True dat. Personally I'd pluck the damned thing out, clip it to my harness, then find something totally unrelated to rap off of.
Yeah...if you're going to bother backing it up, rap off the backup. I've left plenty of webbing/rings on rap stations that already had both, because I dunno where that stuff's been, and my life is worth more than ~$5.
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the_climber
Jun 29, 2007, 9:39 PM
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salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"
You'd also be surprized how forces on the rap anchor can be much higher than body weight... Now I'll be the first to admit I've had to rap off of som enasty ass mankers, but rapping forces aren't just body weight. Direction of pull is quite important too.
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thedesertnomad
Jun 29, 2007, 10:30 PM
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The canyoneering world tends to use anchors that climbers freak out on. It's amazing what a VERY controlled rap added with friction (especially. sandstone) will support. It's not nearly as scary when the rap is only 15 to 20 feet and the penalty is stinky water or possibly a carcass.
These are ones that even canyoneers don't like...
Those last ones are a joke obviously, I am surprised Rob was even able to girth that bad boy without breaking it!!!
When we use dubious anchors we tend to have a "meat anchor" back up for everyone but the last man (typically the best climber). We also tend to use lots and lots of partner assist down climbs.
B
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al_piner
Jun 29, 2007, 10:40 PM
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Known as the Crusty Pizza Cheese anchor .
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thedesertnomad
Jun 29, 2007, 10:52 PM
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the_climber wrote: thedesertnomad wrote: [image]http://canyoneeringusa.com/rave/0512freeze/nk08.jpg[/image] AAAAWWWWWWWwwww Hell no! not on that rock
Yeah, that was an ACTUALLY USED anchor!!! Thankfully there was a pothole lip below that added a little friction. I didn't meet the "user" of that anchor, but I certainly hope that he weighs about 65 lbs!!!!!
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ja1484
Jun 29, 2007, 11:03 PM
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the_climber wrote: thedesertnomad wrote: [image]http://canyoneeringusa.com/rave/0512freeze/nk08.jpg[/image] AAAAWWWWWWWwwww Hell no! not on that rock
No kidding. I did a double take when I saw that.
"Is...that...sandstone?"
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salamanizer
Jun 30, 2007, 12:46 AM
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the_climber wrote: salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"You'd also be surprized how forces on the rap anchor can be much higher than body weight... Now I'll be the first to admit I've had to rap off of som enasty ass mankers, but rapping forces aren't just body weight. Direction of pull is quite important too.
Na, I wouldn't be suprised. I've been the anchor in one particular situation. Talk about mank...
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the_climber
Jul 3, 2007, 4:39 PM
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salamanizer wrote: Na, I wouldn't be suprised. I've been the anchor in one particular situation. Talk about mank...
Been there myself before too! It really sucked. On the upside, for my partner at the time, I'm a heavy MoFo.... But I will say it was one sketchy downclimb I had to do after... the joys of zigging when you should have zagged while caving
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kobaz
Jul 7, 2007, 11:09 PM
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Not as manky as some others, but a nice and old piton in the gunks.
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knieveltech
Jul 17, 2007, 8:51 PM
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Damn that thing looks crusty.
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marvinz
Dec 6, 2007, 6:20 PM
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shrug7
Dec 6, 2007, 8:44 PM
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Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day...
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Dec 6, 2007, 8:45 PM)
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billcoe_
Dec 6, 2007, 8:53 PM
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It looks like some of the mank you find in Australia.
I have the queezy feeling I may have rapped on that one.
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hanginaround
Dec 6, 2007, 9:35 PM
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Found at a undisclosed crag in Baja - be sure to notice the open chain link
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raymondjeffrey
Dec 6, 2007, 9:58 PM
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That rusted anchor (as in the anchor of a big friggin boat) is funny. Very 'Far Side' like
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throb
Dec 8, 2007, 3:08 AM
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notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it.  Me to, but worse. When we put in the Obed, many of our anchors where fallen burned logs. The top had burned recently and dead logs were all that remained. We felt pretty confident because they were so large and surrounded by heavy brush. *Hangs head in shame* |
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diebetes
Dec 8, 2007, 3:14 AM
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hanginaround wrote: [image]http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos3434/4/99/33/95/27/2/227953399405_0_ALB.jpg[/image] Found at a undisclosed crag in Baja - be sure to notice the open chain link
You mean the cold shut? (not to be confused with a welded cold shut)
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notapplicable
Dec 8, 2007, 3:24 AM
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throb wrote: notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. Me to, but worse. When we put in the Obed, many of our anchors where fallen burned logs. The top had burned recently and dead logs were all that remained. We felt pretty confident because they were so large and surrounded by heavy brush. *Hangs head in shame*
You probably would have been better off with the "heavy brush" (assuming it was rooted) than the logs. Ah well, lifes full of lessons...
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dr_feelgood
Dec 8, 2007, 3:47 AM
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notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. *Hangs head in shame*
Bomber.
*holds head high*
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notapplicable
Dec 8, 2007, 4:20 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote: notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. *Hangs head in shame* Bomber. *holds head high*
Yeah, there is nothing like the sound of a single piece of webbing skittering (is that a word?) back and forth across a sharp edge, while you dog the route below. Lifts the spirit, it does.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 8, 2007, 4:27 AM
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notapplicable wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: notapplicable wrote: shrug7 wrote: [image]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1804389112_401e358a5e_b.jpg[/image] Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day... Done it. *Hangs head in shame* Bomber. *holds head high* Yeah, there is nothing like the sound of a single piece of webbing skittering (is that a word?) back and forth across a sharp edge, while you dog the route below. Lifts the spirit, it does.
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harihari
Dec 8, 2007, 6:02 PM
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Weird anchors? Here's a story...
I arrived at Sandstone Quarry in Red Rocks to find a guy in his mid 40s and his girlfriend/wife, with three topropes. The routes are bolted, but sparsely-- it is technical frictiony climbing with falls bigger than normal sport routes.
I led up a route between two of their topropes and at the top of the route saw....a rope strung between all of the anchors on the crag. He had taken a rope, tied it to the leftmost anchor, run it across to the next route, put a bight in, attached to the anchor with a locker, and proceeded across the crag. He had probably 10 anchors tied together.
I got lowered and asked him what he was doing and he said "I like a solid safety margin." So I asked him if he ever led.
"Nah," he said, "I'm not into risk and runouts."
He then moved one of his three top ropes to do the route that my partner and I had just led. He proceeded to get on the route, which handed him his ass.
As my female partner proceeded to follow (no falls) the route from which he had just moved his top-rope and which I then led, he got into a screaming match with his wife/girlfriend, supposedly about the quality of her belaying him while on top-rope.
He sauntered off to take a leak and when he was away his partner came over and said "He's a little stressed--
he's going to Iraq."
"Oh yeah? Army? What does he do?" I asked.
"Computer maintenance," she said.
(This post was edited by harihari on Dec 8, 2007, 6:08 PM)
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Tuwie
Dec 8, 2007, 7:37 PM
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Well it wasn't a climbing anchor but it was still an anchor so I guess it counts.
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rogue10186
Dec 9, 2007, 1:20 AM
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Jesus, That is one of the biggest cluster fucks I've seen in my short (two and a half) year climbing career. WTF was that used for?
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c4c
Dec 9, 2007, 1:46 AM
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Where's madjid? that anchor needs a bunch of arrows and stuff. Looks like an italian TR anchor for a church camp climbing tower. (I've seen worse)
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medicus
Dec 9, 2007, 2:21 AM
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In light of his absence, I have done my best to replicate a majid image edit.
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Tuwie
Dec 9, 2007, 2:47 AM
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It wasnt for holding a person so dont worry about that. It was just a way to hang some tools and pull up some materials.
I had to have a few different tools to work with right there and happened to have some gear in my trunk. I hung my saw off it, a grinder, eventually the backpack was hanging off it also to hold the screws and clips.
BTW I like the guy you drew in on top of the patio umbrella.
I took the pictures this summer when I first saw this thread with the intention of posting it months ago then forgot about them until the thread popped back up.
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medicus
Dec 9, 2007, 3:22 AM
Post #114 of 144
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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I wasn't worried... just having fun 
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majid_sabet
Dec 9, 2007, 4:50 AM
Post #115 of 144
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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My editing remarks will stay in RC for long long time
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medicus
Dec 9, 2007, 4:57 AM
Post #116 of 144
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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majid_sabet wrote: My editing remarks will stay in RC for long long time
yep... that they will.
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drjghl
Dec 9, 2007, 8:59 PM
Post #117 of 144
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
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Old School redefined at Smith Rock. Can you say scary? Anyone out there recognize this baby?
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moditup
Dec 9, 2007, 9:32 PM
Post #118 of 144
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Registered: Jul 7, 2006
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drjghl wrote: Old School redefined at Smith Rock. Can you say scary? Anyone out there recognize this baby?
Holy... I wouldn't even know what to do with that once I got there... Probably try chipping my own chicken head with a nut tool.
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camhead
Dec 9, 2007, 10:08 PM
Post #119 of 144
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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well, the dryer isn't hooked up yet, so I needed extra space in the basement to hang laundry.
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tigerlilly
Dec 10, 2007, 1:39 AM
Post #120 of 144
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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drjghl wrote: Old School redefined at Smith Rock. Can you say scary? Anyone out there recognize this baby? [IMG]http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/drjghl/zebratozionanchorsattopofpitch2.jpg[/IMG]
All that's missing is some duct tape. Eeek.
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full1346
Dec 11, 2007, 5:56 AM
Post #122 of 144
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Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 61
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i dont have a pic of it but i was cleaning a trad route in southeastern pa and one of the natural pro used was a rotten tree about the size of my wrist that had been lassoed with a sling. when i went to retrieve the sling the baby tree snapped off at its routes... fun stuff
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theswissfactor
Dec 11, 2007, 7:21 AM
Post #123 of 144
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Registered: Sep 3, 2006
Posts: 26
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Isn't that at the top of the second pitch of Zebra-Zion? Right above a pair of beautiful new 3/8" bolts?
It's been a while, so I could be wrong. Smith has some interesting relics. My partner and I rapped off a single rusty 1/4 after completing the Marsupial Traverse. Did a little bit of testing with a backup before trusting that one.
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drjghl
Dec 11, 2007, 5:25 PM
Post #124 of 144
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 135
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Zebra to Zion is a great route and yes, those tattered threads are on the top of the second pitch next to some bomber anchors.
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mushroom
Dec 12, 2007, 8:15 PM
Post #125 of 144
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 230
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This is from Welcome to the Gunks. Sorry the picture wasn't better, but what you dont see is that this mess of webbing is connects to a few of the sadder pitons that people still clip in the gunks, 2 opposed brassies, and that thin pink 6mm cord goes up to a fixed pink tricam. There's such a mess of webbing that you just clip your biggest biner to as much as you can. You can't tell where magic x's are or anything like that. I wouldn't be that surprised of this anchor kills someone one day.
edit: I forgot the picture
(This post was edited by mushroom on Dec 12, 2007, 8:17 PM)
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patmay81
Dec 12, 2007, 9:10 PM
Post #126 of 144
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
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where is that at? Ive climbed a lot at smith and never come across anything half that manky, even most of the obscure rarely climbed routes have something decent to rap off. Oh i see from the photo tag its zebra, I dont remember ever seeing that.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/drjghl/zebratozionanchorsattopofpitch2.jpg
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climbingaggie03
Dec 12, 2007, 10:31 PM
Post #127 of 144
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it but we ran across a nasty rusted ass 1/4 inch button head with a leeper hanger that was pulled out about 1/2 an inch on Snake Dike in yos. My partner was leading the 3rd pitch and missed a turn and was lured up to this bolt. I wish i had taken a picture, and a crowbar.
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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 6:04 AM
Post #128 of 144
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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these r boring
but if you consider "manky" as anything that would not support a fall.. i guess these qualify..
i dont' know if this setup is alright for equalizing a cam and nut... idk..
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the_leech
Dec 20, 2007, 6:28 AM
Post #129 of 144
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Registered: Feb 8, 2007
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evanwish wrote: these r boring but if you consider "manky" as anything that would not support a fall.. i guess these qualify.. i dont' know if this setup is alright for equalizing a cam and nut... idk..
Your ability to propagate idiocy across multiple threads with such efficiency is inspirational.
Do you have to work at it, or does this just come naturally?
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ropeburn
Dec 20, 2007, 1:37 PM
Post #131 of 144
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Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 594
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Bomber repost.
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evanwish
Dec 20, 2007, 3:53 PM
Post #132 of 144
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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the_leech wrote: evanwish wrote: these r boring but if you consider "manky" as anything that would not support a fall.. i guess these qualify.. Your ability to propagate idiocy across multiple threads with such efficiency is inspirational. Do you have to work at it, or does this just come naturally?
oh my bad. i meant mine were boring.
the other ones are pretty cool.
oh and no i don't have to work at it.
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j_ung
Dec 20, 2007, 6:05 PM
Post #133 of 144
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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evanwish wrote: these r boring but if you consider "manky" as anything that would not support a fall.. i guess these qualify.. [IMG]http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/evanphoto/anchor2.jpg[/IMG] i dont' know if this setup is alright for equalizing a cam and nut... idk.. [image]http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/evanphoto/anchor1.jpg[/image]
Not that I'm in any way qualified to dictate rules, but it's supposed to be actual anchors on actual rock.
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timd
Dec 23, 2007, 10:25 AM
Post #134 of 144
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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Check this out.
(This post was edited by timd on Dec 23, 2007, 10:26 AM)
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Attachments:
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piton belay.jpg
(116 KB)
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knieveltech
Dec 23, 2007, 2:37 PM
Post #135 of 144
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
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Definitely the best looking anchor I've seen on this site, or anywhere for that matter.
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philbox
Moderator
Dec 23, 2007, 10:01 PM
Post #136 of 144
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
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I just noticed j_ung's postcount, man you just clocked over 13,000. You losertude is definitely confirmed.
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markguycan
Dec 23, 2007, 10:29 PM
Post #137 of 144
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 136
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Don't you just love getting scared climbing up only to find no relief at the anchors!
(This post was edited by markguycan on Dec 23, 2007, 10:33 PM)
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core
Dec 23, 2007, 11:03 PM
Post #138 of 144
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
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knieveltech
Dec 24, 2007, 3:08 AM
Post #140 of 144
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
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the_climber wrote: $5 says the pin holds more than the Alien... ...any takers?
That's not a bet, that's a gift.
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sky7high
Feb 10, 2008, 2:26 AM
Post #141 of 144
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Registered: Feb 15, 2006
Posts: 478
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From La Ventana Mayor, over here in Pachuca, Hidalgo, Mexico.
This is a manky pin, there is something that just doesn't feel right about the ring
This one is a manchor on the same route, actually, right next to the manky pin. The yellow one up higher is the "new" (10 year old) bolt that is actually used for protection. Not precisely a brand new Petzl long life, but it's 3/8 and pretty much standard over here.
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Attachments:
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mank_piton.JPG
(143 KB)
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manchor.JPG
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ja1484
Feb 10, 2008, 3:11 AM
Post #142 of 144
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
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philbox wrote: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/154926-largest_40438.jpg[/image] Check out this for a rap station. It is on Mt. Lindsay in SE Queensland.
How's that tree doin?
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kane_schutzman
Feb 10, 2008, 3:45 AM
Post #143 of 144
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Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
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Whats wrong?
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